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The pipe should still sit in the exact same factory location. I'm just going to have the boot go further down the pipe before I put the clamp. I should still have the same amount of overhang as the factory boot.
^^^This... A longer boot will fit just fine further over the CAC tube and the same distance on the spider as the OEM boot.
Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
I will just leave the boot on the tube and take it loose from the spider when taking the pipe off. Shouldn't make it too much harder to take off at all. It's just that instead of leaving the boot on the spider I'm going to leave it on the pipe when removing.
^^^This x2... It is a good practice to get into only removing one side of the boot clamp if possible. After several heat cycles, the boots somewhat affix themselves to the surface they are clamped to. This is what I do if/when I remove a CAC tube. I prefer to loosen the side on the spider and intercooler. This leaves the seal on the CAC tube intact.
^^^This... A longer boot will fit just fine further over the CAC tube and the same distance on the spider as the OEM boot.
^^^This x2... It is a good practice to get into only removing one side of the boot clamp if possible. After several heat cycles, the boots somewhat affix themselves to the surface they are clamped to. This is what I do if/when I remove a CAC tube. I prefer to loosen the side on the spider and intercooler. This leaves the seal on the CAC tube intact.
Leaving the seal on the CAC tube as you're saying would also be good to prevent what happened to me from happening again. You're not going to bend the spider. I don't know why I didn't think about that before but, you learn something new everyday. From now on I will remove the boots from The spider and intercooler instead of from the pipe. Thanks!
Can we see a pic of the IC pipe? Must be conical. If it is an exhaust expander can make it round again. Maybe a box of doughnuts at the local muffler shop?
Roughing up the surface with sandpaper, squeaky clean pipe and boot, and hairspray usually do the trick.
Don't lose that blue cap on the clamp threads, keep the OEM look.
Can we see a pic of the IC pipe? Must be conical. If it is an exhaust expander can make it round again. Maybe a box of doughnuts at the local muffler shop?
Roughing up the surface with sandpaper, squeaky clean pipe and boot, and hairspray usually do the trick.
Don't lose that blue cap on the clamp threads, keep the OEM look.
I have used an exhaust expander on the squished end of a tube with only limited success. Once squished, the end of the tube would have to be expanded way beyond its original diameter to get back to round, weakening it and potentially busting it.
I have used an exhaust expander on the squished end of a tube with only limited success. Once squished, the end of the tube would have to be expanded way beyond its original diameter to get back to round, weakening it and potentially busting it.
Maybe but if it's a basket case already, what's wrong with a hail Mary?
Can we see a pic of the IC pipe? Must be conical. If it is an exhaust expander can make it round again. Maybe a box of doughnuts at the local muffler shop?
Roughing up the surface with sandpaper, squeaky clean pipe and boot, and hairspray usually do the trick.
Don't lose that blue cap on the clamp threads, keep the OEM look.
You want to see the end of the pipe? I posted a few videos of it. I will try to snag a pic later. At work ATM.
You want to see the end of the pipe? I posted a few videos of it. I will try to snag a pic later. At work ATM.
Edit* here you go.
Doesn't look horrible, maybe it's the pic though. Perhaps the paint is what is allowing it to slip? I've never painted the IC pipes so just throwing it out there.
The pipe has been deformed from over tightening the clamp. The only real fix is a new pipe…. The band aid fix is a longer boot to clamp further back. The boot will be about $20 shipped. A new oem pipe is $70 shipped….
There have been several ideas if how to mess with the junk pipe to make it work, the new pipe would be cheaper at the end of the day….
The pipe has been deformed from over tightening the clamp. The only real fix is a new pipe…. The band aid fix is a longer boot to clamp further back. The boot will be about $20 shipped. A new oem pipe is $70 shipped….
There have been several ideas if how to mess with the junk pipe to make it work, the new pipe would be cheaper at the end of the day….
I agree with this also, I tried fixing my deformed pipe but ended up ordering a new one. No problems since
. But if your in a pinch a longer boot would probably suffice
The pipe has been deformed from over tightening the clamp. The only real fix is a new pipe…. The band aid fix is a longer boot to clamp further back. The boot will be about $20 shipped. A new oem pipe is $70 shipped….
There have been several ideas if how to mess with the junk pipe to make it work, the new pipe would be cheaper at the end of the day….
nicely aimed Correction, it was not from over tightening the clamp but from the very first time I ever put that pipe back on the clamp was crooked and when I tightened the clamp it bent the edge of the pipe inwards. I was inexperienced and it was my first time taking that pipe off and putting it back on. I may still get a new pipe but, I still think I should get those longer boots anyway. My current boots are wore out. There are some small chunks missing out of them here and there and they are just very flimsy. Considering I'm only putting out a little over 20 psi of boost I don't think I will have any problems putting the longer boot with clamps. I would like the riff Raff kit but it's a bit expensive. Not sure. I'll do some research. Im thinking the longer boots (maybe just 2 in longer than factory) will work just fine with my current pipe and will also fix my issue of having worn out boots at the same time at a considerable discount vs riffraff. Do you think it would be easier to just buy a pipe and a set of boots?
The paint under the boot is def not helping it hold in place, I do prefer to not paint under where the boot seals
I understand. That makes sense. I did t think about it when painting. If I have to get a new pipe anyway there isn't much point in cleaning that one up anyway now.
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