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I have a drop pitman arm out there that came off of my truck when I de-lifted it. You can have it if you want it. You might want to glass bead the rust off of it.
All good! Thanks anyway! Joel shot me a text saying I can get the extra inch of turning by adjusting the tie rod on both ends. Is this true? I feel like if the steering gear is maxing out it will only do so much. Could it be done?
Makes some sense to me. Unscrew the draglink a bit to make it longer and then shorten the sleeve on the left side.
All good! Thanks anyway! Joel shot me a text saying I can get the extra inch of turning by adjusting the tie rod on both ends. Is this true? I feel like if the steering gear is maxing out it will only do so much. Could it be done?
Makes some sense to me. Unscrew the draglink. You can't adjust the tie rod on the left side though....it'll screw up the toe.
Hard to tell on the video even though the slot in the sleeve is facing the camera, but you might have enough thread engagement left on the draglink to get the length you need......but your steering wheel will end up off-center (which is normal for a lited truck without "drop" correction).
Makes some sense to me. Unscrew the draglink a bit to make it longer and then shorten the sleeve on the left side.
The drag link? I'm worried it's going to uncenter my steering wheel. I would think you would just adjust both sides of the tie rod. There's a sleeve on one side but the other side appears to be threaded in as well. I could be wrong but here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Couldn't I unthread a couple turns right here and instead of shortening the other side I could take the tie rod end out of the knuckle and just turn the end itself further into the sleeve. Makes sense?
The drag link? I'm worried it's going to uncenter my steering wheel. I would think you would just adjust both sides of the tie rod. There's a sleeve on one side but the other side appears to be threaded in as well. I could be wrong but here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Couldn't I unthread a couple turns right here and instead of shortening the other side I could take the tie rod end out of the knuckle and just turn the end itself further into the sleeve. Makes sense?
That is not an adjuster. It's swaged (mechanically pressed together) and does not move.
Makes some sense to me. Unscrew the draglink. You can't adjust the tie rod on the left side though....it'll screw up the toe.
Hard to tell on the video even though the slot in the sleeve is facing the camera, but you might have enough thread engagement left on the draglink to get the length you need......but your steering wheel will end up off-center (which is normal for a lited truck without "drop" correction).
Well if my steering wheel is off alignment I can just pull it off of the splines and rotate it a little bit. I have two inches of thread on my drag link adjuster. I will try adjusting that out some and see if I can get my wheel to go full lock and if so I will go get a steering wheel puller and rotate my steering wheel a little bit. That sounds like a good plan doesn't it?
Now that I think about it, the longer pitman arm only helps with drag link hitting the track bar bolt. The tie rod hitting the diff cover means something is jacked up with knuckle geometry.
Now that I think about it, the longer pitman arm only helps with drag link hitting the track bar bolt. The tie rod hitting the diff cover means something is jacked up with knuckle geometry.
There should be 2.5" between the tie rod and diff cover when the wheels are straight-ahead. Between the bent adjustment sleeve and likely bowed tie rod, there will be clearance issues - especially when turning.
A longer pitman allows the draglink and tie rod travel to be greater for any given rotational distance of the sector shaft.
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Now that I think about it, the longer pitman arm only helps with drag link hitting the track bar bolt. The tie rod hitting the diff cover means something is jacked up with knuckle geometry.
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
There should be 2.5" between the tie rod and diff cover when the wheels are straight-ahead. Between the bent adjustment sleeve and likely bowed tie rod, there will be clearance issues - especially when turning.
A longer pitman allows the draglink and tie rod travel to be greater for any given rotational distance of the sector shaft.
As I stated earlier the collar is bent. The front axle was in a wreck before I put it on my truck. Anyway I adjusted that drag link until the driver side hub almost hit the lock but then the passenger side hub was way off like the driver side one was so, all I could do was get it at a close center point and my steering wheel just so happened to land on a perfectly straight point again as well go figure. Also though, while looking dead at it it looks like My toe in is in a toe out situation. Maybe due to hitting that giant pothole but I'm going to go out there with a measuring tape and check it and maybe, just maybe, a little toe in adjustment to factory specs will get my locks hitting. I will let y'all know.
Okay so, I know this is a half-*** ditch effort I guess but, turns out I was in a toe out situation. Front of the tires are out an inch compared to the back. 69" and 70" Now to the last ditch effort part. Because that collar is bent, as I rotate it it switches where it is in relation to the axle. It started off really close to the axle and then after a 180° rotation, the tie rod moved further away. The bend in it made it move away from the axle when I turned it. So basically, when I fix my toe in, at the same time I can turn the collar until it is farthest away from the axle housing. Then I will fix my toe in and stop the tie rod from hitting the axle cover. And it may be a byproduct that I can turn lock to lock hopefully🤞
Okay so, I know this is a half-*** ditch effort I guess but, turns out I was in a toe out situation. Front of the tires are out an inch compared to the back. 69" and 70" Now to the last ditch effort part. Because that collar is bent, as I rotate it it switches where it is in relation to the axle. It started off really close to the axle and then after a 180° rotation, the tie rod moved further away. The bend in it made it move away from the axle when I turned it. So basically, when I fix my toe in, at the same time I can turn the collar until it is farthest away from the axle housing. Then I will fix my toe in and stop the tie rod from hitting the axle cover. And it may be a byproduct that I can turn lock to lock hopefully🤞
How did you keep it on the road with that much negative toe?
How did you keep it on the road with that much negative toe?
I have no idea. It's been pulling to the right a bit......
It was bad enough I could see it without a measuring tape! I haven't been doing very much high-speed driving, mostly because my turbo pipe won't stay on
I adjusted toe in a while back but then I hit that giant pothole on the interstate that broke my hub. I then proceeded to drive 200 or so Miles back to the house from that, and I've been driving to and from work since, I'm surprised it wasn't jerking all over the place worse than it has been. Maybe I'll be able to turn lock to lock now.
Success! Fix my toe in and I'm turning lock to lock and my tie rod is not hitting my front differential case cover anymore! A good 2" from the case cover at full lock! The steering wheel is even straight without me having to adjust it at all. Ill call that a win all the way around!
The only thing that is not a win is yesterday when stepping off of the porch into our flower bed I landed on a rock and went sideways and sprained the crap out of my ankle. I heard a crack/pop and It is swole to twice its original size and hurts. But, it is what it is. Id that is all that went wrong over the weekend I think I can live with that!
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