Khan's 95 Build thread
#182
Khan,
Just reading through this,
I would def suggest the small 363 with a .91 housing. It is a great match with the 160/0, on auto or stick. I have been unable to find anything that I dont like about mine on my auto withmy 160/0. Unloaded is amazing, towing is amazing.
I drove my zf6 truck with 180/30 and a large turbine 364.5 yesterday. A friend has had it for 3 months waiting on me to do a zf6 swap for him when I have time
The 363 has way less smoke and lights about 200-300 rpms sooner.
The 364.5 on my zf6 has never made me complain it lights hard and keeps egts low, I have always been very happy with it, but now after so much time with the 363 on my auto and not touchin the zf6, I can tell I want to switch over to a 363 onthe zf6 truck as well.
Go with the small 363, if you dont like it, and want a bit bigger, I will mail you my like new 364.5 that is sitting in the shelf, or the one still in my zf6 truck, for a straight up trade.
Just reading through this,
I would def suggest the small 363 with a .91 housing. It is a great match with the 160/0, on auto or stick. I have been unable to find anything that I dont like about mine on my auto withmy 160/0. Unloaded is amazing, towing is amazing.
I drove my zf6 truck with 180/30 and a large turbine 364.5 yesterday. A friend has had it for 3 months waiting on me to do a zf6 swap for him when I have time
The 363 has way less smoke and lights about 200-300 rpms sooner.
The 364.5 on my zf6 has never made me complain it lights hard and keeps egts low, I have always been very happy with it, but now after so much time with the 363 on my auto and not touchin the zf6, I can tell I want to switch over to a 363 onthe zf6 truck as well.
Go with the small 363, if you dont like it, and want a bit bigger, I will mail you my like new 364.5 that is sitting in the shelf, or the one still in my zf6 truck, for a straight up trade.
#183
Khan,
Just reading through this,
I would def suggest the small 363 with a .91 housing. It is a great match with the 160/0, on auto or stick. I have been unable to find anything that I dont like about mine on my auto withmy 160/0. Unloaded is amazing, towing is amazing.
I drove my zf6 truck with 180/30 and a large turbine 364.5 yesterday. A friend has had it for 3 months waiting on me to do a zf6 swap for him when I have time
The 363 has way less smoke and lights about 200-300 rpms sooner.
The 364.5 on my zf6 has never made me complain it lights hard and keeps egts low, I have always been very happy with it, but now after so much time with the 363 on my auto and not touchin the zf6, I can tell I want to switch over to a 363 onthe zf6 truck as well.
Go with the small 363, if you dont like it, and want a bit bigger, I will mail you my like new 364.5 that is sitting in the shelf, or the one still in my zf6 truck, for a straight up trade.
Just reading through this,
I would def suggest the small 363 with a .91 housing. It is a great match with the 160/0, on auto or stick. I have been unable to find anything that I dont like about mine on my auto withmy 160/0. Unloaded is amazing, towing is amazing.
I drove my zf6 truck with 180/30 and a large turbine 364.5 yesterday. A friend has had it for 3 months waiting on me to do a zf6 swap for him when I have time
The 363 has way less smoke and lights about 200-300 rpms sooner.
The 364.5 on my zf6 has never made me complain it lights hard and keeps egts low, I have always been very happy with it, but now after so much time with the 363 on my auto and not touchin the zf6, I can tell I want to switch over to a 363 onthe zf6 truck as well.
Go with the small 363, if you dont like it, and want a bit bigger, I will mail you my like new 364.5 that is sitting in the shelf, or the one still in my zf6 truck, for a straight up trade.
Sounds like you're going to have two 364.5/73/.91 turbos for sale soon
#184
Just read through this thread. Great work!
Noticed 15W/40 as the motor oil of choice. If a future PCS takes the truck to cooler climates, might consider 5W/40. Reasoning is that the injectors will benefit from the thinner weight during cold starts. This is more for the 6.0 crowd, but it does still benefit the 7.3 injectors too.
About those LED's. Have learned that reliability ties to price I got tired of swapping out the cheap stuff and do not go bargain shopping any more. Toward color, green is neat, although red is better for the eyes. Only downside to going red is having to completely take apart the cluster to remove the green film.
Noticed 15W/40 as the motor oil of choice. If a future PCS takes the truck to cooler climates, might consider 5W/40. Reasoning is that the injectors will benefit from the thinner weight during cold starts. This is more for the 6.0 crowd, but it does still benefit the 7.3 injectors too.
About those LED's. Have learned that reliability ties to price I got tired of swapping out the cheap stuff and do not go bargain shopping any more. Toward color, green is neat, although red is better for the eyes. Only downside to going red is having to completely take apart the cluster to remove the green film.
#185
Just read through this thread. Great work!
Noticed 15W/40 as the motor oil of choice. If a future PCS takes the truck to cooler climates, might consider 5W/40. Reasoning is that the injectors will benefit from the thinner weight during cold starts. This is more for the 6.0 crowd, but it does still benefit the 7.3 injectors too.
About those LED's. Have learned that reliability ties to price I got tired of swapping out the cheap stuff and do not go bargain shopping any more. Toward color, green is neat, although red is better for the eyes. Only downside to going red is having to completely take apart the cluster to remove the green film.
Noticed 15W/40 as the motor oil of choice. If a future PCS takes the truck to cooler climates, might consider 5W/40. Reasoning is that the injectors will benefit from the thinner weight during cold starts. This is more for the 6.0 crowd, but it does still benefit the 7.3 injectors too.
About those LED's. Have learned that reliability ties to price I got tired of swapping out the cheap stuff and do not go bargain shopping any more. Toward color, green is neat, although red is better for the eyes. Only downside to going red is having to completely take apart the cluster to remove the green film.
I usually don't cheap out on stuff, but the LEDs were an impulse buy. When the first one goes ill probably order a whole set of good ones. I wouldn't mind going another color, but my gauges are green so until I decide to redo gauges, I'd rather not spend money on shipping them over a color change.
#187
Ha the S&B intake. I thought it was a nice enough unit when I got it out of the box. But it was an extremely tight fit in my engine bay getting the boot to the intake pipe and to the rest of the assembly to fit. I also opted for the dry filter vs. the oiled. I was pretty happy with it when I first installed it. I pinched an O ring on the Riff Raff HPX and once that blew I was spewing tons of oil. By the time I got from CA to FL, that filter was almost black.
Between being being a pain to get on and off, as well as the plastic cover cracking and the filter needing a change, I decided to just go the 6637 route. I remember the fit was so bad I even went out and tried to find a longer boot locally because I literally had to bolt it to the intake pipe and hee-haw the rest of it into place and try to stretch the box into the mounting holes. Maybe I was doing it wrong, maybe it's supposed to fit that way, I don't know. If the cover hadn't cracked I probably would have gotten a longer boot and would still have it installed.
I figured for something I was probably going to take on an off almost every time I was going to do engine work, I decided to swap away. The 6637 assembly is a breeze to take on and off and the filter sock is awesome for extending the life of the filter. I now run the Donaldson Blue 6637 compared to the regular white one.
I know @Hit Man X runs the S&B and has no complaints.
Between being being a pain to get on and off, as well as the plastic cover cracking and the filter needing a change, I decided to just go the 6637 route. I remember the fit was so bad I even went out and tried to find a longer boot locally because I literally had to bolt it to the intake pipe and hee-haw the rest of it into place and try to stretch the box into the mounting holes. Maybe I was doing it wrong, maybe it's supposed to fit that way, I don't know. If the cover hadn't cracked I probably would have gotten a longer boot and would still have it installed.
I figured for something I was probably going to take on an off almost every time I was going to do engine work, I decided to swap away. The 6637 assembly is a breeze to take on and off and the filter sock is awesome for extending the life of the filter. I now run the Donaldson Blue 6637 compared to the regular white one.
I know @Hit Man X runs the S&B and has no complaints.
#188
Khan-artist is correct, I have the S&B. Forgot what filter is in mine. Oiled probably with that sock over it too.
It fits okay to me on my truck, not as good as other products from them. These trucks were built as an afterthought from Ford to have some marketshare with Dodge...why else do you think the downpipe is flat as a board?
Makes my point this: the assembly line was pumping them out so what fits one well could be crap on the other.
Khan needs a low stall converter before more power, otherwise all the new power will blow right through it and you will sit out at 3000rpm at WOT going no where fast until it locks.
It fits okay to me on my truck, not as good as other products from them. These trucks were built as an afterthought from Ford to have some marketshare with Dodge...why else do you think the downpipe is flat as a board?
Makes my point this: the assembly line was pumping them out so what fits one well could be crap on the other.
Khan needs a low stall converter before more power, otherwise all the new power will blow right through it and you will sit out at 3000rpm at WOT going no where fast until it locks.
#189
Khan-artist is correct, I have the S&B. Forgot what filter is in mine. Oiled probably with that sock over it too.
It fits okay to me on my truck, not as good as other products from them. These trucks were built as an afterthought from Ford to have some marketshare with Dodge...why else do you think the downpipe is flat as a board?
Makes my point this: the assembly line was pumping them out so what fits one well could be crap on the other.
Khan needs a low stall converter before more power, otherwise all the new power will blow right through it and you will sit out at 3000rpm at WOT going no where fast until it locks.
It fits okay to me on my truck, not as good as other products from them. These trucks were built as an afterthought from Ford to have some marketshare with Dodge...why else do you think the downpipe is flat as a board?
Makes my point this: the assembly line was pumping them out so what fits one well could be crap on the other.
Khan needs a low stall converter before more power, otherwise all the new power will blow right through it and you will sit out at 3000rpm at WOT going no where fast until it locks.
#190
#191
#192
I'll probably go the billet TC route (read PI Converter) and tugger mods because I only have 23k on this trans so far, I haven't even changed the ATF yet. I think a 1600-1800 rpm stall would be good.
#193
My current trans is a rebuilt Ford unit with all the latest and greatest internals from the 1996? year. So you could say it's pretty lame.
No John Woods for me thanks. That being said I'm not sure I would want to wait 2+ months in line to get a BTS like @Dmco. I guess that means his trans are still highly regarded which isn't a bad thing.
I'll probably go the billet TC route (read PI Converter) and tugger mods because I only have 23k on this trans so far, I haven't even changed the ATF yet. I think a 1600-1800 rpm stall would be good.
No John Woods for me thanks. That being said I'm not sure I would want to wait 2+ months in line to get a BTS like @Dmco. I guess that means his trans are still highly regarded which isn't a bad thing.
I'll probably go the billet TC route (read PI Converter) and tugger mods because I only have 23k on this trans so far, I haven't even changed the ATF yet. I think a 1600-1800 rpm stall would be good.
#194