When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking to replace my TPS on my 95 F250, 5.8, ZF 5-speed manual. Truck does not go below 1700 RPM at all after replacing the IACV (Motorcraft), but idles at 500RPM with the IACV unplugged. I do not see any of the replacement TPS offerings reference a manual trans, however some brands list their for E4OD (Standard Motor Products), while others do not specify a trans at all. Does it make a difference or do I need to source the elusive manual trans TPS?
Also, this looks to be a discontinued OEM part with no Motorcraft replacement. In this case what is the go-to brand? I'm thinking either Standard or NTK.
Thank you in advance.
Last edited by CantAffordAToyota; Jun 9, 2026 at 08:27 AM.
Are you guessing that is the problem or is there a fault code for the TPS? What are the closed and open voltages? Is there a dead spot as you watch the voltmeter when going from closed to open and back?
Last edited by My4Fordtrucks; Jun 9, 2026 at 08:53 AM.
Are you guessing that is the problem or is there a fault code for the TPS? What are the closest and open voltages? Is there a dead spot as you watch the voltmeter when going from closed to open and back?
I knew it was a bad idea to mention my intent...
I am "guessing" after finding someone with the same issue fix it with the TPS. I have not tested any voltages. I do not have enough time with the truck (about an hour a month) to go thru diagnostic procedures thoroughly.
Do you know if there's a difference between auto/manual TPS's?
Last edited by CantAffordAToyota; Jun 9, 2026 at 08:55 AM.
Around here we try to help each other fix their trucks without wasting money on parts that are not bad. It takes 5 minutes to check for fault codes. I have never seen an E4OD only TPS. How does the sensor know what transmission is connected to the engine. Buy one of the sensors that isn’t listed as “E4OD only”.
Can't afford a Ford either if you are going to keep buying parts without doing any diagnostic testing. Good luck with the repair
Last edited by My4Fordtrucks; Jun 9, 2026 at 09:15 AM.
Do you know if there's a difference between auto/manual TPS's?
Wouldn't it be faster to check the parts for a manual vs an automatic truck?
To answer your question, I don't know, but I suspect they are the same.
These sensors are not adjustable because the EEC-IV is able to figure out what is right. Yes, some professional will chime in and prove me wrong. It's really not hard to test the sensor.
If grabbing the shot gun is your method to resolving problems and that works for you, that is great. Some of us like to perform tests to confirm what we think is wrong. Both ways work but one tends to take more time/money.
I am very pro-diagnostic and anti-shotgunning as a virtue. Unfortunately due to life circumstances I do not need to explain on forums, I am currently not afforded that time to backprobe and test signal voltages (and believe me, no sarcasm intended, I am actually a fan and quite good with DC electrical diagnosis), whilst being too stubborn to ever let others work on my vehicles. It's a me-problem, I know, but asking straight forward questions without receiving life advice is just too much to ask I reckon. Therefore I must buy and hope for the best. (My response also indicated I did the research on my exact issue with similar success stories).
Thank you for those that have answered my question on the specifics of an earth-shatteringly expensive $30 part.
Last edited by CantAffordAToyota; Jun 9, 2026 at 09:38 AM.
The TPS is exactly like a dimmer switch in a wall. Variable resistance.
No back probing needed.
You un plug it. Put DVOM on leads, open/close throttle body & watch readout.
Of course if you want to go through all the monkey-motion of removing throttle body & putting new one of unknown quality on & hoping for positive out come...
I tend to want to see what the ECU sees and therefore, I would leave the connector plugged in. It is amazing the differences you will see. I have seen changes in voltages where checking with an ohm meter did not. To each their own, but testing the actual voltage signal is my preferred way.
If I were you
Before removing the throttle plate and replacing it
I sure would be backprobing the TP connector, verifying .8-1.3v at idle and the swing up to 4.5-5.0 at WOT
Then if the voltage is out of spec, go ahead and replace it
You can still get those Motorcraft CX 1228 TP sensors on Ebay (sometimes) I don't see any on there right now
I say if I were you, because if it were me, I would just use the NGS and pull up the TP PID on your 1995 truck
This scan tool can turn that 1995 inside out
Flat out indispensable IMO as a tech
Without it you are in the dark basically and in manual mode, tool came out in 1992, we all were testing TP;s in 1984 and 1985 by backprobing or using the breakout box
If I had a NGS, I would for certain use that. That way, you see exactly what the ECU sees. Sadly, I do not and although I have a factory break out box, I am not certain I am ready to step up to the plate to get the good stuff. I may once I get my stroker running. I've got a good year before that happens.
I do have a Tweecer and I can see a lot of information, but not as much as the NGS. I cannot command things like a NGS can [I am assuming it can actuate things]. With the Tweecer, I can do things that NGS cannot. I've spent a lot of time/money making an E4OD as strong as it can be that shifts exactly how I want it. Both the shift quality and timing are pretty much spot on. You can't do that with the NGS.
Sure a breakout box would do, but it's a PITA to install and use. Well, let's just say not as easy as an NGS [that I have never used/seen].
A Tweecer is just something that piggy backs to the service port of the EEC-IV ECU. It's not user friendly and will cause you to drink more beer. If you don't turn into an alcoholic, it does what I want to do. It allows you to use the factory hardware. Allows you to program the ECU to ignore emissions equipment, set timing, fuel mixtures, MAF values, injector sizes, and transmissions settings [assuming it's electrically controlled]. Not willing to say it will do everything, but it does more than it does not do. In the wrong hands, it probably can mess your engine up.
Considering that there is newer technology out there, it might not be the best solution for everyone.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
