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It could just be you need a longer rod from the Z bar to the clutch fork. Once a flywheel gets cut too many times the truck needs that longer rod. The stock rod doesn't push the fork far enough.
65/72 F100/350 factory rod was part number D0TZ7521C. 3 29/32" long.
Part number D0TZ7521A was 5 1/4" long. .
Measure your rod. Some PO might have replaced it already or welded an extension on yours. If yours is still the 3 29/32" long one then you can buy the D0TZ7521A at: NOS Parts Ltd.
Recently Updated
Part Number DOTZ7521A
Seller:NOS Parts Ltd.
Description:ROD- CLUTCH LEVER
Phone (972) 937-2201
K.C. Motor Company
Recently Updated
Part Number DOTZ7521A
Seller:K.C. Motor Company
Description:ROD ASY
Phone (561) 722-6208
I did purchase the rod from NPD and I believe it was definitely closer to the 3 inch so I will look into that
i like this build and the hp is very reasonable for a daily. cant wait to se more updates on the build. ive always wanted to build a 390 from scratch for my old 71, but being disabled it will be something i can never do. all i can hope is to order a create motor and have my mechanic put it in for me. but i like this build so hope u don't mind me drueling over it.
It could just be you need a longer rod from the Z bar to the clutch fork. Once a flywheel gets cut too many times the truck needs that longer rod. The stock rod doesn't push the fork far enough.
65/72 F100/350 factory rod was part number D0TZ7521C. 3 29/32" long.
Part number D0TZ7521A was 5 1/4" long. .
Measure your rod. Some PO might have replaced it already or welded an extension on yours. If yours is still the 3 29/32" long one then you can buy the D0TZ7521A at: NOS Parts Ltd.
Recently Updated
Part Number DOTZ7521A
Seller:NOS Parts Ltd.
Description:ROD- CLUTCH LEVER
Phone (972) 937-2201
K.C. Motor Company
Recently Updated
Part Number DOTZ7521A
Seller:K.C. Motor Company
Description:ROD ASY
Phone (561) 722-6208
I pulled off the inspection plate today to see how far the clutch came off the flywheel and I noticed it was a very minimal amount, so while having my father press the clutch pedal I adjusted it out farther and it actually seems to release well! Clutch pedal is much firmer than before also. Huge thanks to you. Currently awaiting new rocker arms to come in so I can start my pickup back up and hope it runs fine. Still need to pull intake off but i want to make sure it runs and drives fine before I do anything
69 F-250 Camper Special 390 w/edelbrock Perf Package hot cranking issue
69 Camper Special 390 w Edelbrock Performance Package 4 bar Alum. intake adapter to 2bar. Runs great until it is shut off then it will not crank when hot. will be installing thicker gasket between Carb and plate.
I purchased a rebuilt short block , came without heads but came with the intake and the Parts Store said the engine had the performer package in it. something about a cam and stuff but I didn't know much about it, all I was trying to do was get my truck on the road again. The first problem that showed up was that the engine would not crank after it was warm without quite a bit of cranking. It wouldn't even crank if I poured gas into the carb. When it would not crank I tried all kinds of things even moving the distributor back and forth etc thinking the timing went off somehow. If I waited for the engine to cool off then it would be nice and crank right up like there was never a problem, Also the entire time of dealing with this the truck ran like a scalded dog even with the adapted 2 bl, didn't miss or even act like it had a problem until I turned the truck off and tried to crank it while it was hot. I parked the truck about 7 years ago and recently decided to get back on it. I was told to install a thicker gasket between the Spacer and Carb so that is what I will be doing. Noticed on your rebuild you also installed Edelbrock Aluminum intake. I am interested to hear if you found out your problems and got your engine going again! It reminded me of all the work I have done on Ford Trucks over the years. On one post it was mentioned that the Cab mounts and that made me think of a problem I ran into where top the fender bolts into the cab it seems the backer nuts fell off or something I have no nuts to screw the bolts into. Thought about cutting a hole in the side of the cab so I could get to the back side of them, does anyone know what I should do? And if anyone has any input on why my engine will not crank when hot, other than the thicker gasket, please chime in, I haven't got the truck ready to crank yet, but just preparing for dealing the same old problem which made me park her.
Ford 390 with Edelbrock Performance Package , heads are cast Iron, Aluminum intake is 4 barrel but adapted back down to a 2 barrel, truck runs great until you try to recrank it when it is hot. Going to try that thicker gasket soon.
Last edited by Kurttb1; May 14, 2018 at 02:17 AM.
Reason: Added smaller Picture easier to see.
It sure has all the sysmptoms of carb perkulating. All that heat is boiling the gas right out of the carb when you turn the engine off. When you get a new gasket/spacer, get a non metal one. You can find Phenolic spacers at Summit Racing or your local auto house. I would also suggest that you insulate the fuel line. From the pump to the carb if you can. If all that doesn't help, then consider venting out some engine heat. You can do this by trimming some of the inner fenders near the exhaust manifolds. You can also insulate the exhaust system/headers. Hood or fender vents are also an option
It sure has all the sysmptoms of carb perkulating. All that heat is boiling the gas right out of the carb when you turn the engine off. When you get a new gasket/spacer, get a non metal one. You can find Phenolic spacers at Summit Racing or your local auto house. I would also suggest that you insulate the fuel line. From the pump to the carb if you can. If all that doesn't help, then consider venting out some engine heat. You can do this by trimming some of the inner fenders near the exhaust manifolds. You can also insulate the exhaust system/headers. Hood or fender vents are also an option
Hi GARY , those are some great Ideas ...Thank you very much I will do all of them as soon as possible.
I guess the reason I was not so convinced gas problem is I try putting gas in the carb when I try to crank it before but it didn't seem to help ...maybe still too hot to get gas to cylinder or not enough gas put in? Also that pan that came out of the old engine under the intake I put it back under the aluminum intake wasn't sure if that was ok or not. Also what about the water hoses going up thru that plate at the carb, should I remove that or is it necessary? I will be doing all these things and I will check on that gasket, too
Phenolic carburetor spacers ? How Thick? Open or 4 Holes? Where to put it?
Was looking online at these spacers and they have a ton of them.
1. How thick to try first? They have them from 1/2" to 2" thick
2. One with 4 holes or just open plenum I have the Edelbrock performer intake.
3. Where Should I put the Spacer A. between the intake and the 4 bl to 2bl adapter ?
B. Between the adapter and that heat transfer plate? guess that is what to call it, don't know the real name of it.
C. Between the Heat Transfer Plate and the Carburetor? (This would be a 2 barrel type.)
Update guys! New rocker arms solved my tapping noise (metal shavings in the old ones) and I was able to narrow down my oil burning issue to an intake manifold leak (from not machine it along with the cylinder head and block) gonna go ahead and pull the intake one day this week and send it in for machining
Update guys! New rocker arms solved my tapping noise (metal shavings in the old ones) and I was able to narrow down my oil burning issue to an intake manifold leak (from not machine it along with the cylinder head and block) gonna go ahead and pull the intake one day this week and send it in for machining
Hi GARY , those are some great Ideas ...Thank you very much I will do all of them as soon as possible.
I guess the reason I was not so convinced gas problem is I try putting gas in the carb when I try to crank it before but it didn't seem to help ...maybe still too hot to get gas to cylinder or not enough gas put in? Also that pan that came out of the old engine under the intake I put it back under the aluminum intake wasn't sure if that was ok or not. Also what about the water hoses going up thru that plate at the carb, should I remove that or is it necessary? I will be doing all these things and I will check on that gasket, too
Thanks a bunch !! Kurt
That plate with the hose barbs may not be needed. But it depends on how cold it gets where you live at. I don't normally drive my truck in the extrem of winter. And since I live in the high desert I didn't need it in the summer. So I took it off and did away with all those hoses.
Was looking online at these spacers and they have a ton of them.
1. How thick to try first? They have them from 1/2" to 2" thick
2. One with 4 holes or just open plenum I have the Edelbrock performer intake.
3. Where Should I put the Spacer A. between the intake and the 4 bl to 2bl adapter ?
B. Between the adapter and that heat transfer plate? guess that is what to call it, don't know the real name of it.
C. Between the Heat Transfer Plate and the Carburetor? (This would be a 2 barrel type.)
I don't know what the opening of your carb looks like, but I would think the spacer should match it. A lot of the guys prefer the 1 inch thick spacer. If you get rid of the coolant plate ( the one that has the hose barbs on it) then the spacer should go on top of the intake manifold, then the carb on top of the spacer-Don't forget to use gaskets. AND maybe you should start your own thread, this is hi-jacking the other guy's thread. You'll still get answers.
Thanks Gary, where I am in Florida the winters average between 45 and 70 degrees with probably less than 20 days under 35. Does that sound like the plate with the hose barbs could go? Thank you for the info. And if so what to do with the in and outs? Should I just run a straight hose instead of going thru the plate OR get rid of the hoses completely and plug the end coming from the water pump? .
Sorry about hijacking the Thread, When I posted it had been a couple of weeks since 70FE250 had posted and I wasn't sure if he was going to keep posting considering he was at the end of his build. I did think that the problem with the Carb. would be relevant to finishing up a 390 build, and the Edelbrock performer was relevant. Nevertheless, I would be happy to start my own thread no problem, is it possible to move some of these posts to a new thread??
Thanks Gary, where I am in Florida the winters average between 45 and 70 degrees with probably less than 20 days under 35. Does that sound like the plate with the hose barbs could go? Thank you for the info. And if so what to do with the in and outs? Should I just run a straight hose instead of going thru the plate OR get rid of the hoses completely and plug the end coming from the water pump? .
Sorry about hijacking the Thread, When I posted it had been a couple of weeks since 70FE250 had posted and I wasn't sure if he was going to keep posting considering he was at the end of his build. I did think that the problem with the Carb. would be relevant to finishing up a 390 build, and the Edelbrock performer was relevant. Nevertheless, I would be happy to start my own thread no problem, is it possible to move some of these posts to a new thread??
Delete the tee in the heater hose and buy one of these in place of the fitting you now have in the intake manifold.
Four Seasons brand part number 84776 or equivalent.
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