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Got the engine and transmission but I had to pull off the top cover to get the transmission to fit between the tunnel and cross member and now I cannot get the cover to fit back on the transmission. The transmission was in neutral as far as I could tell when installed however the cover seems to be stuck not going all the way down. Could anyone assist me in how the hell this goes on?
Transmission has 100k on it, this was the gear layout as the way it’s installed in my pickup.
I have the engine broken in now (besides the rings now being set in yet) and I noticed a loud clattering like a diesel in the top end, upon investigation I discovered I accounted for improper head gasket thickness, can anyone tell me what head gasket thickness ford used when it came to measurements for pushrod length?
what length push rods did you go with ? did the block and heads get planned ?
did you rebuild your rocker shafts ? they are know to be clogged with years of sludge , mine were almost blocked with sludge had to push it out with a long wood dowel ,
what length push rods did you go with ? did the block and heads get planned ?
did you rebuild your rocker shafts ? they are know to be clogged with years of sludge , mine were almost blocked with sludge had to push it out with a long wood dowel ,
I never rebuilt my rockers however I know they are not clogged up. The block was decked .012 and heads I have are .010 for a total of .022. I used fel-pros head gasket with a .041 compressed thickness
Apologize about lack of updates yet again, buttoning up the pickup now but I’m stuck at something simple, I have a edelbrock 4 bbl carb on my performer RPM intake and the throttle linkage rod is too long, regardless of how I adjust the rod. Any suggestions? I’d seen some suggestions for a single rod fix for it to remove the cluster of the OEM linkage
Apologize about lack of updates yet again, buttoning up the pickup now but I’m stuck at something simple, I have a edelbrock 4 bbl carb on my performer RPM intake and the throttle linkage rod is too long, regardless of how I adjust the rod. Any suggestions? I’d seen some suggestions for a single rod fix for it to remove the cluster of the OEM linkage
Buy part number D5TZ9747B. It can be found at:Miller Obsolete Parts
Part Number D5TZ-9747-B
Seller:Miller Obsolete Parts
Description ACCELERATOR ROD
Phone (607) 722-5371
Buy part number D5TZ9747B. It can be found at:Miller Obsolete Parts
Part Number D5TZ-9747-B
Seller:Miller Obsolete Parts
Description ACCELERATOR ROD
Phone (607) 722-5371
I will definitely look into that, I’m still chasing after several small issues preventing me from driving the pickup right now unfortunately, throttle linkage, clutch not disengaging (either pilot bushing or clutch issue itself) burning oil like crazy (need to have intake machined) and a relatively loud “tapping” noise from my valvetrain somewhere. Starting to lose motivation on this project however it WILL get done eventually
I will definitely look into that, I’m still chasing after several small issues preventing me from driving the pickup right now unfortunately, throttle linkage, clutch not disengaging (either pilot bushing or clutch issue itself) burning oil like crazy (need to have intake machined) and a relatively loud “tapping” noise from my valvetrain somewhere. Starting to lose motivation on this project however it WILL get done eventually
That's what we are here for. How is/isn't the clutch pedal working. What do/don't you feel?
That's what we are here for. How is/isn't the clutch pedal working. What do/don't you feel?
it’s definitely actuating, at least somewhat is, there’s resistance on the pedal and I cannot move the fork by hand and it’s definitely lined up. However the transmission is definitely not going into gear, it grinds for 1st and Reverse and the obvious for 2nd and 3rd. When started in gear and clutch it it still lurches forward. Leading me to 2 possibly problems, clutch backwards( almost positive it was hooked up correct however will need to check anyways) and pilot bushing seized onto input shaft.
im using a McLeod clutch and matching TOB. Also still have the valvetrain noise that I am very curious on.
I tore apart one of my rocker arms today and I discovered a few things. One surface area of the rod has some deep scratches and another has what seems like casting flash of some sort, like a concrete substance on the top. Also In almost all of my bolt holds for the rocker arm shaft, there was metal shavings, leading me to believe some serious issues are in my rockers
Sorry to hear your troubles. It can be frustrating and expensive to get to the finish line with a motor build. Hang in there you will get it sorted out. Good luck.
it’s definitely actuating, at least somewhat is, there’s resistance on the pedal and I cannot move the fork by hand and it’s definitely lined up. However the transmission is definitely not going into gear, it grinds for 1st and Reverse and the obvious for 2nd and 3rd. When started in gear and clutch it it still lurches forward. Leading me to 2 possibly problems, clutch backwards( almost positive it was hooked up correct however will need to check anyways) and pilot bushing seized onto input shaft.
im using a McLeod clutch and matching TOB. Also still have the valvetrain noise that I am very curious on.
It could just be you need a longer rod from the Z bar to the clutch fork. Once a flywheel gets cut too many times the truck needs that longer rod. The stock rod doesn't push the fork far enough.
65/72 F100/350 factory rod was part number D0TZ7521C. 3 29/32" long.
Part number D0TZ7521A was 5 1/4" long. .
Measure your rod. Some PO might have replaced it already or welded an extension on yours. If yours is still the 3 29/32" long one then you can buy the D0TZ7521A at: NOS Parts Ltd.
Recently Updated
Part Number DOTZ7521A
Seller:NOS Parts Ltd.
Description:ROD- CLUTCH LEVER
Phone (972) 937-2201
K.C. Motor Company
Recently Updated
Part Number DOTZ7521A
Seller:K.C. Motor Company
Description:ROD ASY
Phone (561) 722-6208
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