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Sounds like the root cause has been found (valve springs), and once things are inspected/repaired the motor should not have the same issue again. At least you didn't just ignore and drive it till it failed completely.
I built an injected 347 stroker and had a pile of time and money in it. It squealed at certain rpm/load after break-in. Figured it was a bearing, its a horrible feeling, I can relate. Turned out to be turbulence in IAB valve, but took a long time to diagnose.
Good luck with it.
can’t seem to see any metal shavings inside of it, however definitely had scratches all along the “gears” and I do see a small piece of what ground off my crank in the pickup screen
I now have a new crank, rods and pistons and all other associated parts in my hands now to rebuild my engine. Only thing that is hindering me from having started to rebuild is I still need to have my cam bearings swapped out for new ones. and the week old comp camshaft that I had purchased and opened out of package yesterday has rust all along the bearing surface on the cam. Not surface rust from what could have been me, but rust that has clearly been forming for weeks on end. It's bubbled up and scaly and has definitely ruined this camshaft. I talked with a local engine builder and he has backed up my feelings for Comp Cams lack of quality lately. Hopefully will be able to get my money back for this camshaft and I do plan to go to Lunati or Crane Cams.
And the hits keep coming. I hope they stand behind their product for you!
I hope they do too, but if not at least buying a new cam from a different company won't break my bank thankfully. Too add to my Moral hits, I have gone through 2 different pliers for the circlips on my wrist pins and the first one couldn't clamp the clip down enough. Second one the pins were too flimsy and flexed as soon as I got the clips clamped halfways down to go inside, since I was already having a bad day at the time the pliers were across the shop and in several pieces in about 2 seconds. Now I need to find a better pliers here in town.
And in lou of me not being able to find a valve spring compressor to remove inner spring on my heads for break in, without taking the head off both times. I've decided now to purchase some Max Output II Beehive Springs that I managed to find online, and will have my machine shop swap out the springs. I have also found my new camshaft that I will be purchasing on pay day this friday, I am hoping within the next 2 weeks to have started progress on a rebuild.
Scratch that, I'm not breaking in engine inside my pickup this time around, So unless I can find a tool or a backyard mechanic way to do it myself I'll just pull heads and place/replace the inner springs. Oh well
Can you rent a valve spring compressor? Some of the auto suppliers (Auto Zone , O'Reilley's,Napa) have them. Some of them don't even charge you to use them.
I've been looking at a set of bee hive springs but am also looking at a different cam and need it first so I'll know what the valve lift will be to make sure the spring won't coil bind and also get springs with the proper poundage rating for the cam. I never have nor ever will buy valve springs until I know what the specs are for the cam I'll be using, then I'll purchase springs that are a close match the recommendations of the cam.
It's just me but circlips are stamped out, this makes one side have a slightly rounded edge and the other side has a sharp edge, I always instal the circlips on the pistons with the sharp edge out.
My theory is the sharp edge will bite into the pistons grove and be less app to come out verses the rounded edge of the circlip.
FYI forged pistons need .0045-.006 piston to cylinder wall clearance measured 90 degrees from the wrist pin at the bottom of the skirt.
Are you using the same pistons you took out?
I've been looking at a set of bee hive springs but am also looking at a different cam and need it first so I'll know what the valve lift will be to make sure the spring won't coil bind and also get springs with the proper poundage rating for the cam. I never have nor ever will buy valve springs until I know what the specs are for the cam I'll be using, then I'll purchase springs that are a close match the recommendations of the cam.
It's just me but circlips are stamped out, this makes one side have a slightly rounded edge and the other side has a sharp edge, I always instal the circlips on the pistons with the sharp edge out.
My theory is the sharp edge will bite into the pistons grove and be less app to come out verses the rounded edge of the circlip.
FYI forged pistons need .0045-.006 piston to cylinder wall clearance measured 90 degrees from the wrist pin at the bottom of the skirt.
Are you using the same pistons you took out?
no, I purchased some hypereucectic pistons for this go around. My worry with getting the honeycomb springs is their poundage might be too much on the cam with it being a flat tappet, even after break in. I found a awesome forum of using a old rocker shaft, 2 rockers welded together and then two of the stands that worked out awesome, so I will keep these springs I have since I found a way to do it
Just got off of the phone with summit (who has amazing customer service and support by the way) and I’ll be sending my cam back for a refund tomorrow if I can find the invoice. I’ve been looking at a Lunati Voodoo cam for my set up now. Might end up purchasing rocker arm end stands since the lift is a bit high for rockers without stands, but not high enough to be bad with them.
What did you do with the forged pistons, hope you didn't throw them away
The one in the photo looked useable to me
I didn’t throw them away no, but part of that bad day I had was partially because a piston fell off my shelf I had for them, actually dented the top ring groove in
Hypers are cast pistons with a higher silicon content, this allows for less expansion so engines can be built with tighter tolerances.
For me the down side is when over rev'd cast pistons will crack and sometimes break a skirt off, hyper pistons will break and often damage the cylinder wall.
Both types are rated to a max of 6000 rpm so I personally don't see any gain with the higher cost of hypers over cast.
Forged pistons will bend before breaking and will take much higher rpm's without failing