1969 Ford F-250 Explorer Camper Special 390 Edelbrock Performer - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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1969 Ford F-250 Explorer Camper Special 390 Edelbrock Performer

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1969 Ford F-250 Explorer Camper Special 390 Edelbrock Performer

 
  #1  
Old 06-04-2018, 06:09 AM
Kurttb1
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1969 Ford F-250 Explorer Camper Special 390 Edelbrock Performer

Hello Everyone I've been on the Forum a bit but recently I decided it is time to pull my truck out from under this old tarp shed and see if I can get her going again. Hasn't been cranked since 2009 so I need lots of brushing up and advice. There seems to be so many things I need to watch out for and take care of before I start working on her figured this thread would help.
Many thanks to you guys who have already given me advice recently about the previous hot starting problem which made me park her back in 09 also was given some great info about wheels and tires maybe I'll try to repost some of that. In the meantime here are pictures of where she has been sitting for nearly 10 years and what it once looked like back in the day when I was driving her after putting in the new engine... at the time I failed to come online and research what the problem was and if anyone remembers the country was experiencing economic woes and a recession and so was I so I ended up parking her and there she has sat even thru Tropical Storms and maybe even a Hurricane, had to repair the tarp shed a few times over the years from getting blown around and damaged. Luckily the truck escaped damage but has a bit more rust and dust on her. Thanks for stopping by and feel free to post and say hi and give your wisdom and advice !! My name is Kurt B. I live about 70 miles North of Tampa, Florida.


1969 Ford Explorer sitting under tarp shed pic taken November 15, 2013
.


2005-1124 1969 Ford F-250 Explorer Camper Special


2006-0711 390 Edelbrock Performance Package 2bl Stock Carb adapted to Edelbrock 4bl Alum intake.


Great Design for the Camper Special with the 390 eng.
 
  #2  
Old 06-04-2018, 06:30 AM
Kurttb1
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390 engine Edelbrock Aluminum 4 bl Intake adapted to 2V Stock Carburetor

As I mentioned I found out the hot starting problem may have been caused by
1. not having a thick enough spacer between the Carb and the adapter.
2. the possibility that running the heated water thru that heater plate under the Carb may be contributing to the problem.
3. the fuel line needs to be insulated
4. Air circulation around the engine should be maximized.
5. Installing a 6 blade fan
6. Installing a shroud on the radiator.
7. Converting over to electric fan system.
I think that is all if anyone can think of something else let me know, one or a combination of some of the above may eliminate the problem but I haven't started on the Truck yet, been working my way around her, moving stuff that has been piled around her.​​​​​​​


Close up of 4 bl Edelbrock Aluminum Intake with a 2bl to 4bl Adapter, then the heater plate, then the Stock 2V Carb.
 
  #3  
Old 06-04-2018, 06:46 AM
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A few Issues I am concerned about and wondering if some or all are necessary before even attempting to start the engine is

1. Changing the Oil and filter,

2. Removing the distributor and ... trying to somehow prime the oil pump. Haven't done anything like this in quite awhile so I need a refresher course on that distributor oil pump prime, whether it will work, is it necessary, what happens if the distributor shaft comes loose and falls down into the oil pan, things like that.

3. Should I worry about changing the transmission fluid and filter before I try to crank over the engine? IF so what is the best Brand Tranny fluid, filter and gasket to use? Should I worry about the fluid in the torque converter and cooling lines?

4. Remove plugs mark cylinders, mark plugs, put a few ounces? of Marvel Mystery Fluid in each cylinder.

5. Remove Valve covers so I can pour oil on the rocker arm, rockers, springs, valves and push rods.

6. Check radiator anti-freeze level, belt tightness
 
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:23 AM
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1) Original oil and filter should be fine, unless there is water in there. Just make sure its full. That being said, changing the oil first wouldn't be a bad thing.
2 and 4) I'd opt for the Marvel Fluid idea...make sure to turn the engine by hand a few revolutions after putting in the Marvels, you don't want to crank a tight motor with fluid in the cylinders.
3) I'd just make sure the transmission is full.
5) Rockers and such should be good for a few revolutions until oil pressure comes up.
6) Of all things, I might change the antifreeze. It's been sitting in there for a while and it'd be a shame for your "new' engine to rust from the inside out after all these years.

I'd also check Youtube. There is all sorts of videos out there of guys starting old Ford trucks that have been sitting for 20+ years and the like.
 
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:37 AM
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All you need to prime the engine oiling system is a 1/4 inch long socket and a drill motor, Run it at low speed counterclockwise until you feel resistance to the motor them maybe a few more seconds. This should fill all galleries and bearings.
The shaft shouldn't fall out, just don't pull up on it with the drill.
 

Last edited by mrpotatohead; 06-04-2018 at 10:38 AM. Reason: addition.
  #6  
Old 06-04-2018, 10:43 AM
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Its been sitting a long time. The gas is for sure past its expiration date. First things first. Pull the spark plugs and valve covers and turn the engine over by hand. I would want to verify that the lifters are not stuck, you could bend a push rod real easy if they are. If everything looks good, change the oil and filter. Then fresh gas and fuel filter, and see what happens. You should check radiator and heater hoses and gas lines as well. I would wait on the transmission oil and filter until its running again. My 0.02. Good luck.
 
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Old 06-06-2018, 02:39 AM
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Thanks guys , here is my plan
1. Pull the gas tank, clean and reinstall. Replace all gas hose lines. pull off Gas pump out-line and install shorty line to clean pan. Pump new gas thru line with bulb
pump thru lines and thru gas pump. Add Optimal (2 cycle) oil to the gas at 1 1/3 oz per gallon . Make sure Truck is at or near level.

2. Change the water and antifreeze, check belts for wear as a precaution
3. Remove the Valve Covers

4. Drain the Engine Oil thru a mesh screen filter if it comes out clean with no goo go to step 3 If goo then Pour quart of mineral spirits thru the head, then drain.
Leave oil plug out and pour another quart of mineral spirits thru check for goo, if no goo pour a qt of oil thru and save this oil in a clean container.
If serious goo problem may have to drop oil pan and clean.
5. Continue changing the Oil and filter, ((Pour Oil into engine thru head the same way ,places where poured any Mineral Spirits remember to replace oil plug first))

6 Remove the distributor and prime the oil pump with 1/4 inch long socket (oiled first, keep from sticking) and drill slowly (do not blow rear seal)
, should see oil coming to the rockers
7. Remove Spark plugs mark wires, mark plugs, put Marvel Mystery Fluid in each cylinder. How much? 2 oz? Let sit.

8. Change the transmission fluid and filter to remove any residue or white sludge from the fluid pan, Remove tranny cooler return line at transmission allow any old fluid to leak out.
Clean old fluid out your catch pan Install a few qts of new fluid so as to allow some to flow out of the tranny return line into a clean pan, when it does replace line.
(if no issue then can reuse that new fluid from your clean catch pan.

9. Turn engine over slow and easy by hand to make sure rings are free and that lifters are not stuck. Use 1/2" bar or rachet and 1" socket on Harmonic Balancer to
turn.
10. Check hot wire on starter for any cracking on the insulation
11. Make sure all gas lines are secure. Unhook gas line from carb install temp drain line into clean pan.

12. Remove Coil wire from Dist Cap and coil and lay to side. With plugs still out turn engine over quickly a few times checking each rocker for oil flow and action.
May need to lay valve covers over them if some are throwing oil, check gas line for flow into catch pan.

13. Reinstall gas lines with New filters. New clean gas should now be flowing thru lines.
14. Install New Plugs, Replace New Valve Cover gaskets.
15. Recheck engine OIL, Water level, power steering level, brake fluids
16. Reinstall Coil wire, install Battery,
17. Pour 2 oz of Gas/optimal mix into carb.
18 Stay back from carburetor in case of backfire and start engine
19 Check Transmission Fluid, While allowing engine to idle, shift automatic transmission thru gears until engaging in each gear. Use parking brake.
Fluid must be checked when engine is running, warm, and in Park, and on level ground.
 

Last edited by Kurttb1; 06-06-2018 at 02:47 AM. Reason: add spaces
  #8  
Old 06-07-2018, 12:07 AM
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Here is the main reason I feel it is necessary to prime the Oil Pump before starting on an engine that has been sitting.

But, on the worrisome end of the extreme, is an engine that has been sitting for an extended period of time, which allows maximum oil drain off from components, maximum oil drainage/seepage out of oil passages, and general drying up of protective motor oil. In the case of an engine that has been sitting for an extended period of time, with very little protective oil still in place, you are looking at a condition that is closer to a dry start than anyone would desire. In this case, it could take perhaps as long as five seconds or even more, for oil to reach all the critical components. If that engine’s fast idle speed is say 1,250 rpm, then that would mean that the last components to receive oil five seconds later, would have rotated about 104 revolutions for those turning at crank speed, or 52 revolutions for those turning at cam speed, before oil flow gets there. And the engine is depending entirely on whatever bit of oil film may still be present. That is a LOT of spinning when the engine is nearly dry to begin with.

So, it’s not hard to see how this can result in engine wear or perhaps even damage. In a case like this, it would be in the engine’s best interest to use a highly ranked motor oil with excellent film strength capability, from my Wear Protection Ranking List, with a low cold viscosity rating, such as 0WXX or 5WXX, to protect nearly dry critical components as much as possible, and to ensure the quickest possible oil flow to those critical engine components. And priming the engine with oil before firing it up, would add even more protection against start-up wear.
MOTOR OIL WEAR TEST
 
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Old 06-07-2018, 08:39 AM
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I bought some 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 17" Rims to put on my truck, but they have the bigger 9/16 size stud holes and I will have to use 2" Wheel Adapters $300.00

I have been looking at some later model wheels with the 8 x 170mm bolt circle but my Camper Special has 8 x 6.5 and on top of that evidently has 1/2 20 LUG STUDS.

ON my Camper Special , Is it possible to put a later model Hub and Drum on this axle with the bigger studs and larger bolt circle?

OR is it possible to drill out or retrofit to put larger 9/16 or 14mm studs on the stock axle hubs or use hubs from a heavier duty F350
I forget how the brake drum is held on to the hub?? is it held on by the studs or by separate bolts?

I have an old 1975 F-250 Frame with axles/I beams will they fit? Would it help me to find a better selection of wheels if they were on the truck?
 
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Old 06-13-2018, 08:50 PM
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You don't have to pull the Dizzy to prime the engine. Let the starter do it. I would pull the plugs and valve covers then squirt engine oil or MMo in the plug holes. Spin the engine over by hand to make sure it spins easily. After 10 years one or more of the cylinder walls may have gotten rusty. And the rings won't want to move on the rust build up. If it spins okay pull the coil wire out of the Dizzy cap and lay it down to ground. Coils don't like to build up a spark and not being able to get rid of it. Hit the key and energize the starter to spin the engine until you see engine oil on the valve train. Engine will now be primed.
Fresh gas.
Fresh oil.
 
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:36 AM
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Jeff, even a seasoned parts professional should know better! The point in providing oil pressure via pulling the distributor and rotating the oil pump shaft is so that the engine bearing surfaces don't grind against each other because they are dry from sitting for 10 years. I would theorize that it might take 50 revolutions before the pump will start providing any lubrication, maybe more. It only requires removing one 1/2 inch bolt and only takes minutes. I agree that pulling the plugs and pre-lubing the cylinder walls is a good idea and that kind of makes my point also... take the load off of the cylinders by just pumping some air freely.
 
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:06 AM
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Checked the Radiator coolant level yesterday it was super low, when I mashed the bottom hose I could hear sloshing of water so it had some still in it. I put in a gallon of anti-freeze and a gallon of water which brought the level completely full. Don't know how much it should hold though.

Removed Spark plugs. Using an oil squirt can, put Marvel Mystery fluid in the cylinders.

Turned the engine over using the Fan blade, it turned. There are areas which turn somewhat easily and then other areas as it became much harder so I had to hold down the fanbelt between the fan and alternator to get belt traction on fan pully to turn it.

Should the crank spin easily or does it have areas when turning which are supposed to be harder? I turned it over a couple of times, but it seemed somewhat difficult both times. It turned easier in various areas as I was going around but it didn't just spin easy. Hope I didn't break anything.

Plan to change the oil later today.
 
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:25 AM
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Here is a couple of Pictures from back in Jan 2008


mrpotatohead here are a couple of the pics you wanted.
 

Last edited by Kurttb1; 06-17-2018 at 08:26 AM. Reason: insert year Jan 2008
  #14  
Old 06-17-2018, 12:11 PM
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I'm curious what makes it an explorer?
 
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Old 06-18-2018, 03:24 AM
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Here is the Rating Plate off the door.
 

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