Block Heater
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 580
Likes: 4
From: Michigan
It's been soaked repeatedly plus heat and some tapping with a hammer. Everything I put on there starts to try and round the corners. I'm thinking bolt extractor might be the way to go.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,807
Likes: 125
From: Colorado Springs
Post up a pic of the head itself. What are you using for penetrating fluid? The other option besides a bolt extractor would be a quality vice grip. Do you have any CO2 that you could spray on it a freeze it? Another option I've had good success with is using a soldering gun and holding the tip on the bolt until everything is HOT!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,744
Likes: 5
From: Earth
Short story: yes your block heater is toast (pun intended) replace it and the cord they both will come off anyway
long story: replace the block heater and it’s course, no need to Risk a flaming hot ride(or house if parked in a garage at night) I would also if replaceing the Tatar grab the built housing and new coolant lines and tank, but that is me and my thought process if if I’m taking off multiple items already for a flush I might as well replace with new/cleaning parts to make it faster/easier on me.
long story: replace the block heater and it’s course, no need to Risk a flaming hot ride(or house if parked in a garage at night) I would also if replaceing the Tatar grab the built housing and new coolant lines and tank, but that is me and my thought process if if I’m taking off multiple items already for a flush I might as well replace with new/cleaning parts to make it faster/easier on me.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,807
Likes: 125
From: Colorado Springs
Several days of KROIL or PB BLASTER and allow it to work! Remove the cord so you can get a socket on it .
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Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 10
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Thanks guys. I was just curious because of the material the oil cooler is made of. Didn't want to break the housing if the was some kind of trick. Thanks again for the help. Happy New Year.
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