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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 12:37 PM
  #76  
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The ELC with the EC-1 rating is the best choice. It will require a thorough flush procedure first but then you are done fir years. Coolant can be captured and reused if kept clean - see THOROUGH flush. At that point you are done with worrying about coolant and sediment ("sand") issues.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 12:43 PM
  #77  
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Right. How long does a coolant like this last compared to an ELC anyway?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 12:59 PM
  #78  
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The EC-1 coolant is good for ~ 300K - up to 600K with a "refresher" IIRC. Or it might be twice those numbers. I don't recall right now, but at any rate you will probably never need to worry about it.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 01:01 PM
  #79  
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Ok. I may be pulling the engine next year to do either oil pan gasket or rear main.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 01:20 PM
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When you say oil pan gasket are you referring to the Moresco (sp?) aftermarket gasket? I have seen good reviews for these and eliminates the need to pull the engine, if that is the only issue. These engines do not have a conventional pan gasket, it is a special sealant that REQUIRES the engine to be pulled and set upside down to work properly.
You may want to read up on rear main seals. They are seldom needed on these engines. The rear main seal issue is almost always a leak from above that shows as a drip at the bell housing.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 03:42 PM
  #81  
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Thats what I heard. I'll have to look into that. It runs down the back of the oil pan and front of bell housing. I did check the valley and there's nothing wet that I can see up top. If I did pull the engine I'd probably replace all the fuel lines and other fun parts. But I'd prefer to not​ to. There's no puddle it's just damp. I hardly use any oil between changes. The only time there white/light blue exhaust is when it's pretty chilly. Like now. But I read that was seals under the valve covers somewhere that wear with age because it's only for a minute then disappears. How do you remove the oil pan without removing the engine?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 04:03 PM
  #82  
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You don't. Some have tried it, most had to do it again.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 04:07 PM
  #83  
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That's what I've been hearing. I'll read into the whole process and decide if I want to do the job or may e save up and have someone that's done it before do it. The last time I pulled an engine was with my dad on an 07 fusion and we couldn't get these tabs to line up right between the motor and trans. Needless to say we had to send it out anyway. Cars weren't his fancy, but he was great with ag equipment.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 05:34 PM
  #84  
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You don't. Some have tried it, most had to do it again.
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Yes this is 100% true when using the special "Ford" sealant. It does not play well with oil, dirt ETC. You still need to raise the engine off of the motor mounts to clear the pan enough to remove it but residual oil won't mess up the new gasket.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 06:52 AM
  #85  
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What about the plug on the back of the head near the downpipe, could that be your leak?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 06:57 AM
  #86  
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I didn't know there was one. Can it be seen in frame?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 07:00 AM
  #87  
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Here is a picture I stole from the interwebs...

I think there is a video on YouTube of Diesel Tech Ron replacing them.

 
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 07:12 AM
  #88  
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I'd assume there is some sort of head on the opposite side for a wrench of some sort? To pull the plug out.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 07:29 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by MTP55
I'd assume there is some sort of head on the opposite side for a wrench of some sort? To pull the plug out.
I'm thinking it's a 1/2" or 3/8" drive square hole in it but I'm not 100% on that. Those plugs exist in both ends of the heads so you should be able to check it out on the front end and see what they are.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 07:35 AM
  #90  
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Ok. Thanks. I'll check it out.
 
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