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  #16  
Old 11-02-2017, 05:04 PM
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"When I drain it out of the block and radiator to do this job, do I need to flush the system?"
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Depends on if the previous flush and replace was done properly. IE: Per Gooch's procedure or equivalent. Otherwise it might be worth the effort to do so just so that YOU know.
 
  #17  
Old 11-02-2017, 05:28 PM
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My gauge always reads at the low end for water temp. I put a thermometer on the radiator hose and it read out at 180. So from what that article on the radiator flush says, should I be replacing my thermostat at this time as well?
 
  #18  
Old 11-02-2017, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MTP55
So from what that article on the radiator flush says, should I be replacing my thermostat at this time as well?
thermostat, housing, any rad hoses that look suspect (recommend the upper rad hose that routes around the belt if not already equipped). All inexpensive parts that give you peace of mind it's all new and won't be needing attention and further disruption in the cooling system for a long time. I did water pump too when I flushed and went to ELC. I regretfully went with a reman that leaked like a sieve and grinded bad. Did it all again the next day with a new pump. Fail.
 
  #19  
Old 11-02-2017, 09:20 PM
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Oh and degas reservoir too if bottle is showing it's age. Mine was leaking at the seal a little so I went ahead and did that too.

Something to consider... RR makes a nice billet t stat housing with Allen wrench head bolts which is nice if you encounter a common rounded off oem bolt head like I did.
 
  #20  
Old 11-02-2017, 09:30 PM
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I know the radiator hoses were replaced shortly before I bought it as well. Not sure on thermostat. I'll take a look in the morning. I'll probably skip on the water pump for now. Just dropped 1400 on new tires and new brake pads, rotors and a caliper. The cap looks new but the tank itself is a little dark/dingy looking.
 
  #21  
Old 11-02-2017, 09:35 PM
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The last time I did a thermostat on my 96 half ton one of the bolts snapped off. Partially due to me. I'd like to avoid that happening again. This is from this morning when I picked it up from the tire shop.


 
  #22  
Old 11-02-2017, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MTP55
The last time I did a thermostat on my 96 half ton one of the bolts snapped off. Partially due to me. I'd like to avoid that happening again. This is from this morning when I picked it up from the tire shop.


Good looking rig. I like that color. Are those extended cab running boards and mounted backwards???
 
  #23  
Old 11-02-2017, 09:46 PM
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Not a clue. They do look a bit short. They were on there when I got it last spring. Driver side is about ready to be removed before the Michigan environment removes it for me. I want to fix the rust and replace the box next year when I get my mechanical issues resolved over winter. Nothing major but things like what this thread is on. I like to get ahead when I can. I knew I should have put something else on my last Riffraff order. Haha. I normally don't care for the crew cab short box but it's grown on me.
 
  #24  
Old 11-03-2017, 01:04 PM
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MTP55,
Good looking rig. What size tires are you running?
 
  #25  
Old 11-03-2017, 06:11 PM
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265/75R16. Previous owner had that size on and had the computer reprogrammed to read them right and they looked ok. These ones look alot better. I'm glad I didn't do 285s.
 
  #26  
Old 11-03-2017, 07:18 PM
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Where in Michigan are you at?
 
  #27  
Old 11-03-2017, 08:36 PM
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Croswell-Lexington area. Sanilac county. Why do you ask?
 
  #28  
Old 11-03-2017, 09:47 PM
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I'm up in freeland close to Saginaw. Just like to make contact with other members in Michigan.
 
  #29  
Old 11-04-2017, 07:09 AM
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Gotcha. Yeah I hardly ever leave Sanilac county. Haha.

Does coolant cost $40/gallon no matter where you go?
 
  #30  
Old 11-04-2017, 09:09 AM
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I normally see ELC in the $20/gallon range.
 


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