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When I was running the 40 gallons of distilled water through my truck while it idled, I gutted the older thermostat so there was constant flow. This took a while, but got the job done quite well.
Not what you are looking for, but this is what I used to seal the billet housing to the pump mounting surface when the joint started leaking after a year of being in service. Not 1 leak since using a very thin film of it.
Yes, although I would only use that when you are ready to seal up the connection once and for all. As for pushing distilled water through and then breaking the connection again, I would just let it leak and have a pan under it or something.
Sweet. That's fine with me. I'll see what the stuff is I have in the shop. Worst case I'll see if I can find that stuff you linked. Is the idea behind the RR billet housing that it applies pressure to that rubber seal on the thermostat to keep it from leaking?
Have to get a new belt anyway. I got some coolant and panther pee on it so I'll swap them after this whole project is done.
If I remember correctly my T-stat came with a "rubber" gasket that fit around the edge of the T-stat flange. Not sure how to describe it but it enclosed the edge of the flange top and bottom mating surfaces. That being said I still used a thin film of RTV as the mating surface on the block/housing was a bit rough.
How do you get the oil cooler remounted without a second set of hands? I'm trying to make sure I put the front header back on in the right spot but I can't keep it in one spot long enough to get bolts started.
That's what I'm attempting. Theres a line at the front that keeps it from staying forward just enough that I can't get the bolts in. By starting up front I'm finding that the heavier back half drags it out of position before I can get the bolt in. Pretty sure I marked it right before I took it apart as far as the front header is concerned.
IIRC one guy took a proper sized bolt and cut the head off of it then screwed it in as a pilot pin. You'd have to get one long enough to stick all the way through so you could unscrew it.
IIRC one guy took a proper sized bolt and cut the head off of it then screwed it in as a pilot pin. You'd have to get one long enough to stick all the way through so you could unscrew it.
Now that is a good idea...
Tried to send a rep your way, but I am on lock-down worse than the U.S. Forces in South Korea.
Tried to send a rep your way, but I am on lock-down worse than the U.S. Forces in South Korea.
No problemo, just passing along what one of the more experienced guys told us. This site is blessed with some smart, experienced and intuitive members.
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