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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 08:02 AM
  #136  
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When I was running the 40 gallons of distilled water through my truck while it idled, I gutted the older thermostat so there was constant flow. This took a while, but got the job done quite well.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 08:04 AM
  #137  
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Would Napa carry a gasket?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 08:11 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by MTP55
Would Napa carry a gasket?
Not what you are looking for, but this is what I used to seal the billet housing to the pump mounting surface when the joint started leaking after a year of being in service. Not 1 leak since using a very thin film of it.

Amazon Amazon
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 08:30 AM
  #139  
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So could I use gasket maker then? I have alot of that.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 09:02 AM
  #140  
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Yes, although I would only use that when you are ready to seal up the connection once and for all. As for pushing distilled water through and then breaking the connection again, I would just let it leak and have a pan under it or something.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 09:42 AM
  #141  
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Sweet. That's fine with me. I'll see what the stuff is I have in the shop. Worst case I'll see if I can find that stuff you linked. Is the idea behind the RR billet housing that it applies pressure to that rubber seal on the thermostat to keep it from leaking?

Have to get a new belt anyway. I got some coolant and panther pee on it so I'll swap them after this whole project is done.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 12:39 PM
  #142  
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If I remember correctly my T-stat came with a "rubber" gasket that fit around the edge of the T-stat flange. Not sure how to describe it but it enclosed the edge of the flange top and bottom mating surfaces. That being said I still used a thin film of RTV as the mating surface on the block/housing was a bit rough.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 02:25 PM
  #143  
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That's what I've been reading. It's not the housing that's the problem it's the block/pumps uneven surface.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 01:33 PM
  #144  
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How do you get the oil cooler remounted without a second set of hands? I'm trying to make sure I put the front header back on in the right spot but I can't keep it in one spot long enough to get bolts started.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 01:36 PM
  #145  
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Never did one but I'd put one bolt in the back and lift up in front to bolt it in. Or other way around.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 01:40 PM
  #146  
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That's what I'm attempting. Theres a line at the front that keeps it from staying forward just enough that I can't get the bolts in. By starting up front I'm finding that the heavier back half drags it out of position before I can get the bolt in. Pretty sure I marked it right before I took it apart as far as the front header is concerned.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 01:50 PM
  #147  
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When I re sealed Our oil cooler it was pretty easy with the water pump off.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 02:21 PM
  #148  
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IIRC one guy took a proper sized bolt and cut the head off of it then screwed it in as a pilot pin. You'd have to get one long enough to stick all the way through so you could unscrew it.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 05:05 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
IIRC one guy took a proper sized bolt and cut the head off of it then screwed it in as a pilot pin. You'd have to get one long enough to stick all the way through so you could unscrew it.
Now that is a good idea...

Tried to send a rep your way, but I am on lock-down worse than the U.S. Forces in South Korea.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 05:28 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by Sous
Now that is a good idea...

Tried to send a rep your way, but I am on lock-down worse than the U.S. Forces in South Korea.
No problemo, just passing along what one of the more experienced guys told us. This site is blessed with some smart, experienced and intuitive members.
 
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