block heater removal?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
From: Portland, Maine
block heater removal?
Any tips or tricks to removing the old block heater? Kinda new to the diesel world and have had problems with freeze plugs in 5.0's just thought I'd throw the ? out there for alittle discussion.
thanks
thanks
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Utah
It Has Been Awhile. But I Had A Few Heaters Made At A Place I Used To Work At And Gave One To My Brother In Law. If I Recall, It Has A Screw In The Middle That You Unscrew And Then You Pop It Out. It Is "L" Shaped So Don't Yank It Straight Out.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Alaska
If the plug is not leaking, just leave it in there and add an external tank(inline) heater. Cost is about the same, sometimes cheaper. Installation is less hassle, you don't have to drain the coolant. Just pinch off the right hose, cut, and install heater. They also circulate the coolant. I am using one made by 5 star manufaturing, works great no matter what the temp. Did I mention I live in ALASKA? Good luck. 
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,897
Likes: 0
From: Northeastern Pa - USA
Drain the coolant from the block, there is a little plug on the side of the block (matter of fact, each side) that will let you drain the block after the radiator so you dont get a full bath. The heater has a T set up that when the bolt is tightened, it will mushroom the rubber seal. Loosen it and give it a tap, take hold of the heater body with channel locks and wiggle the "by heck" out of it and it should come out. It is "L" shaped so you will have to twist it to remove the heater core.
Clean the hole with some light sand paper or the like.
When you install the new one, make sure it is positioned so it will NOT touch the block internally.
INsert it , twist it full left and then full right and determine the center position.
If it touches the block, it will short out.
Hope this helps you out.
Clean the hole with some light sand paper or the like.
When you install the new one, make sure it is positioned so it will NOT touch the block internally.
INsert it , twist it full left and then full right and determine the center position.
If it touches the block, it will short out.
Hope this helps you out.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: New York
Originally Posted by bilder12
Drain the coolant from the block, there is a little plug on the side of the block (matter of fact, each side) that will let you drain the block after the radiator so you dont get a full bath. The heater has a T set up that when the bolt is tightened, it will mushroom the rubber seal. Loosen it and give it a tap, take hold of the heater body with channel locks and wiggle the "by heck" out of it and it should come out. It is "L" shaped so you will have to twist it to remove the heater core.
Clean the hole with some light sand paper or the like.
When you install the new one, make sure it is positioned so it will NOT touch the block internally.
INsert it , twist it full left and then full right and determine the center position.
If it touches the block, it will short out.
Hope this helps you out.
Clean the hole with some light sand paper or the like.
When you install the new one, make sure it is positioned so it will NOT touch the block internally.
INsert it , twist it full left and then full right and determine the center position.
If it touches the block, it will short out.
Hope this helps you out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,897
Likes: 0
From: Northeastern Pa - USA
I am assuming that you cleaned the bore from any distortions or dirt. I have changed some and did not have a problem with the unit moving from center. The heater seal is kind of tuff to get to seal but should seal without breaking the bolt. Not sure if there is a torque value to the bolt or not. Perhaps someone could chime in here. Malcolm or Sponaugle might help.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: New York
yeah, I cleaned to hole nice with some sandpaper. when the unit started to move on me while tightening, I tapped it back to the mark I had made as the center value and just figured that was tight enough. I guess not. how the heck can I keep it in place while getting some more torque on it? Was I supposed to use any kind of sealer?
Trending Topics
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 577
Likes: 0
From: Peoria IL
My truck doesnt have the cord for the block heater. I thought maybe the heater was bad so someone took it off. Is there any way to check the block heater? I dont want to spend 60$ on a cord and then the heater be useless anyway.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
To check the BH do a continuity test on the element pins (outside ones I believe.) New wires can be ordered from A/P stores or
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=160012&prmenbr=361
NAPA #605-9722, $16 and some change USD
Cemenacho ......did you orientate the element correctly to the 11 oclock position before tightening....how course was the sand paper.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=160012&prmenbr=361
NAPA #605-9722, $16 and some change USD
Cemenacho ......did you orientate the element correctly to the 11 oclock position before tightening....how course was the sand paper.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Feb 20, 2005 at 11:57 PM.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: New York
PLC7.3 and everyone else,
well I fixed it (after removing the starter AGAIN). The part was faulty. brand new BH from Ford. the srew that runs through the center had a burr on it and was not tightening all the way. as I was tightening it, it would not get past the burr and the unit was twisting. I re-tapped the threads to clean them up and re-installed everything (at the 11 o'clock position). very frustrating- but at least I don't have to wait for a new part.
well I fixed it (after removing the starter AGAIN). The part was faulty. brand new BH from Ford. the srew that runs through the center had a burr on it and was not tightening all the way. as I was tightening it, it would not get past the burr and the unit was twisting. I re-tapped the threads to clean them up and re-installed everything (at the 11 o'clock position). very frustrating- but at least I don't have to wait for a new part.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cowmilker08
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
21
Feb 15, 2012 10:47 PM