That's sounds more reasonable. I think I might swap the thermostat but not the housing.

 

So none of the stores around here carry ELC coolant concentrate. Haven't checked napa because they aren't open today. Would it be advisable to hold off yet another week and order some and a new thermostat from Riffraff? Probably keeping the OEM housing because I see nothing wrong with it as long as I don't snap a bolt.

 

MTP55 I don't see where you are but any large truck dealer/repair shop should carry it or be able to orders on short notice. Also I would plan on the new thermostat housing. The stock one is like tin foil compares to the billet version. The factory housing will most likely get bent/distorted when you remove it. At that point it is toast.

 

We have a semi repair place about a half hour from me. I could try there. So these are the two I need?

 

Yes, those are the way to go. Just be aware that even with the billet housing you may need an extra bit of silicone seal just to be sure there are no leaks.

 

Specific type I should use? Checked hoses going to radiator and they're new. Might replace the Degas tank. While I was browsing the RR site, I found they had a coolant filter kit. All the semis at work have coolant filters. Do they make a difference on the 7.3? My truck has 246,xxx miles on it and I'd like to see just how far I can keep it going. There's not an aftermarket item on this truck.

 

I would only use sealant IF yours leaks. Clean the surfaces to the point you would eat off of them! If you buy a new degas bottle buy a new cap too. There's thread that talk about Ford Degas bottles not matching up with Dorman caps and vice versa. My new bottle leaked after 2 months, Clay replaced it. I purchased a $20 plastic welding kit from Walmart and welded the entire seam before install the new bottle, 8 months on new bottle no problems. If you inspect the seam you can actually see where the two sides don't completely get sealed. I came across this on EBay, it's not that much more money, I would just make sure the cap is rated at the right poundage.
Full Aluminum Coolant Header Tank FOR Ford F250 F350 F450 1999-2005 5.4L-7.3L https://www.ebay.com/i/263247176505

I just added the coolant filter with 370K, figure it can't hurt.

 

I saw that there was an aluminum tank of riffraff by sinister diesel. Has the filter pulled much out of the cooling system as far as debris?

 

I just installed it towards the end of August, haven't pulled filter yet.

 

I installed the International water pump with the filter 3 years ago. Both times I have changed the filter the internal material was clean. Although, I have seen some pictures where a lot of trash is caught for a period after installing.

 

16.99 at tractor supply...
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/shell-rotella-elc-antifreeze-1-gal?cm_vc=-10005

 

Mine came with a new cap. I saw the bad Amazon reviews on the Dorman tank and cap not sealing and others here on the forum having the same issues. I had someone recommend the one Napa sells with lifetime warranty. No where on the box does it say Dorman, but I do believe I see what looks very similar to the Dorman logo on the tank itself. But I am comfortable with it knowing I have that lifetime warranty and a napa nearby just about anywhere in the nation should I have an emergency.

Hindsight, I do wish I ordered that RR housing just for the fact it comes with those allen wrench head screws. The billet material is superior also but I had a bolt head rounded off on mine and had to make an extra run to the parts store to rig up a replacement. I had already dug into the project and couldn't wait for shipping.

I'm still contemplating adding one to mine. Someone did a write up on how make a DIY set up with parts from Napa for around $60. I decided against one for now. If you flush your system within the maintenance intervals, you shouldn't have an issue but it is a nice additional piece of assurance. If you do decide to do one, it may be worth putting in at the flush time so you don't have to go through 3 filters in a short period in the beginning.

This is a nice cost-conscious alternative to the $300 billet tank Sinister sells. Curious how you check the level though without a transparent tank?

 

Is this what they look like when they need replacing?

 

I think you are referring to the bottle, if so they only need replacing if they are leaking in some way. Although, I replaced mine because I was switching to ELC and the bottle was discolored from years of service and I wanted a nice, clean bottle in the front of the engine. I also replaced the cap and then the tool rest simply to freshen the engine bay up.

I am a bit OCD when it comes to things like this, but at least with the truck my wife does not get too upset with me when I get rid of something.





Since this picture, I have sanded and painted the tools in the front and replaced the alternator and batteries. I even went as far to replace the oil cap and the dipstick at one point. Although, the dipstick was a POS and I threw it out right after taking it out of the box. I plan to sand down the handle and paint it satin black to blend in a bit more.

 

Looks kind of grotty but if it doesn't leak you may still be ahead of the game from what has been said about the current batch of new ones. That being said you might want to keep a new spare handy. I do, but mainly because I am lazy and don't want to do the whole coolant flush routine right now.