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I’m hoping this swap doesn’t induce any driveline vibration from altering the pinion angle.
Nice write up, and great pics. I have had this same mod done for over 20k miles now with no negative effects. I now wish there was an easy way to take an inch out of the front too.
Really good "how to" since day one I want to level my truck (350) mostly because the gooseneck trailers that I have, and I planing to keep wheels and size so I don't need to lift the front,
thanks for the tutorial
Yes, very nice write-up! If only I’d had a 24mm wrench and socket and some of those jack stand risers, I would have done it myself. As it stands it took my mechanic and his coworkers 15 minutes to do the whole thing. The four of them looked like and Indy pit crew.
Yes, very nice write-up! If only I’d had a 24mm wrench and socket and some of those jack stand risers, I would have done it myself.
I made those riser blocks about 14 years ago when I got my first Excursion and they have proven to be very handy. I place two short pieces of 4x4 about 4" away from a pair of them, put my truck in 4WD-Lo and simply drive up on top versus buying ramps. These are easier to stow than ramps and have been used on various projects. Each block is made from a single 2x4x8' and the pieces are screwed together. Cut 5 pieces 10-1/2" long and 4 pieces 9" long, then assemble as shown in that photo
Tonight was the first time driving at night after lowering the rear, and was also the first time anyone flashed their highbeams at me while running low-beams alone. After I got onto some darker neighborhood streets, I could see my low-beams do appear to be illuminating slightly higher altitudes. I'm going to adjust them down a bit.
I'll position my front axle 160" from a garage door (same distance as my wheelbase), place a couple pieces of masking tape where the low-beams' current high spots (or centers) shine on the door, then work down one inch from there. My thinking is if the rear was lowered one inch at the rear axle, I should lower the headlight aim the same distance from my fulcrum (front axle).
One nice thing I found today after driving 100 miles over the river and through the woods is the truck now rides smoother. This lends credence to my speculation in another thread that the longer lift blocks impart leverage on the leaf springs, and the rear wheels reacting to imperfetions in the road surface causes some small amount of spring wrap. Shorter blocks, less leverage, and rear axle reverberation has reduced. I would say the rear axle "bounciness" is now on par with what I experienced driving my former 2010 F150 FX4 (and yes, "FX4" was an F150 trim level back then and not just another option).
So, two questions for those of you who already performed this mod:
1) Have you seen an increase of other drivers flashing their high-beams at you?
2) Have you noticed an improvement in ride quality?
So, two questions for those of you who already performed this mod:
1) Have you seen an increase of other drivers flashing their high-beams at you?
2) Have you noticed an improvement in ride quality?
1) Nope, haven't had anyone flash their high beams at me, but then again I don't do a whole lot of driving at night.
2) It still rides like a truck. I've lowered the tire pressures to 55psi all around and that helps some, but I really didn't notice any difference in ride quality that I could attribute to lowering the rear 1½".
So, two questions for those of you who already performed this mod:
1) Have you seen an increase of other drivers flashing their high-beams at you?
2) Have you noticed an improvement in ride quality?
1) Yes. A lot. I lowered mine as well. I went a little more than the 1" you describe because the HR LEDs are so bright.
2) Yes. I also noticed a slight improvement in ride quality over uneven pavement.
Got done this weekend. I replaced the original blocks with the 2016 blocks, which lowered the rear end about an inch and a quarter. Took about an hour and a half, and I replaced the U-bolts with new, shorter ones as well. There are enough threads on the original u-bolts for those who want to reuse them, but one issue you would have would be that a deep-well socket wouldn't be long enough to reach the nut, so you would either have to use a wrench or cut off the excess threads. In my opinion, for no more than they cost, the new shorter U-bolts are worth the money. For those of you who are interested, the part number for the shorter blocks is 6C3Z-5598-A, and the shorter U-bolts is BC3Z--5705-K. I ordered everything from Tasca, and I think it came to about $175 with shipping. It was a fair amount of manual labor while lying on your back, but overall I'm happy with the project.
Do you have a 250HD or 350? I'm trying to find the shorter u-bolt for the m275.