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I lowered mine by replacing the leaf spring spacers with those from a 2016 SuperDuty (6C3Z-5598-A) which will lower the back-end 1.5 inches. This is just enough for me to be able to use the tailgate steps when I need to get into the bed. It's not completely level but it a lot better than it was.
I used the same process to lower the rear of my F-350. I could fit the truck in the garage without a shell but back of the truck was about 1" too high with the Snug Top shell I had installed. After lowering the back I have a generous 1/2" clearance. Made the difference between parking on the street or in the garage.
It only dropped the rear 1 1/4 inches. Can't imagine that would be enough change in angle to cause any vibration, and I haven't noticed any.
Same here. I have a dually so I had to use 2" custom spacers but the 1 1/4 drop didn't cause any ill effects. My fifth wheel now tows level with an abundance of rail clearance.
Srosa, do you have a better side view picture showing truck stance with trailer connected? I have a similar setup and considering doing the same. Thx for sharing.
Srosa, do you have a better side view picture showing truck stance with trailer connected? I have a similar setup and considering doing the same. Thx for sharing.
No problem. Here's a better side view with my prototype 1.5" spacers. The trailer measured out as being slightly nose-low in this shot so I had my permanent custom spacers made in 2" height (1.25" drop) like the 2011-16 OEM spacers the guys are using for their SRW trucks. It ended up being just right for me.
As I said above, the block is the same on all 4x4 trucks for 2017. The camper pkg is separate from the HD tow pkg. The camper pkg adds the upper overload to the rear spring pack, the rear sway bar, and ups the front springs one level. (Same as the HD front spring pkg.) The high capacity trailer tow pkg changes your rear axle from the Sterling 10.5 to the M275 and maxes out the front springs. I believe it ups the rear spring count and adds the overload/sway bar too. Can't remember 100%. It also requires the 6.7 engine.
Are the spacers the same for the Dana and Sterling axle? I know that the axle housing are physically different but is their interface (perch), spring to axle, the same?
Are the spacers the same for the Dana and Sterling axle? I know that the axle housing are physically different but is their interface (perch), spring to axle, the same?
Thanks
2017 Ford DRW pickup trucks have a unique 6" long rear spring spacer and perch while 2017 SRW Super Duty trucks use spacers that are approximately 4" in length. They're all the same height and width (not sure about 2wd) but the blocks are definitely not all the same length for 2017.
Are the spacers the same for the Dana and Sterling axle? I know that the axle housing are physically different but is their interface (perch), spring to axle, the same?
Thanks
Yes, AFAIK the blocks are the same for the DANA and Sterling axles on 4x4 trucks. I'm not sure if the 2wd goes with a shorter block or no block at all like in past generations?
No problem. Here's a better side view with my prototype 1.5" spacers. The trailer measured out as being slightly nose-low in this shot so I had my permanent custom spacers made in 2" height (1.25" drop) like the 2011-16 OEM spacers the guys are using for their SRW trucks. It ended up being just right for me.
Thx Srosa. Have you felt the truck bottom out onto the rubber bumper stops while hooked up to your trailer? Do you still maintain the same amount of wheel/axle travel vertically?
Can anyone who's done this confirm what kind of difference it makes to the overall height of the truck? SRW 4x4's are listed at 81.1" and the parking garage at work is supposedly 82"...dropping the highest point of the cab by just a an inch or two might be enough to make it safely fit, and thus get me into a new truck.
Can anyone who's done this confirm what kind of difference it makes to the overall height of the truck? SRW 4x4's are listed at 81.1" and the parking garage at work is supposedly 82"...dropping the highest point of the cab by just a an inch or two might be enough to make it safely fit, and thus get me into a new truck.
You better measure your own truck first. My SRW 4WD F250 was spec'd at 81.5", but it actually measures 83" tall. Oh, and I also measured my garage at work ... lowest point is 87" above the pavement.
It depends upon what you do to lower the rear end. I have an F350 with the 11500 lb option. The truck sits with the rear end elevated about 3”. My driveway has an inclined approach so that the front wheels level off and lower the cab as it passes through the doorway. I wanted to add a canopy which would have been about an inch too high to clear the garage door. I ordered blocks from a 2016 SD and replaced the taller blocks on the 2017. This lowered the rear by 1 3/4” allowing it to clear the doorway by about 3/4”. That said, I have seen other posts that indicate there are some aftermarket blocks that can lower the rear even more.
You need to evalate the approach angle of driveway and garage floor. If the driveway descends into the garage you may need more clearance than the height measured at the door.
You better measure your own truck first. My SRW 4WD F250 was spec'd at 81.5", but it actually measures 83" tall. Oh, and I also measured my garage at work ... lowest point is 87" above the pavement.
Interesting that the spec is 81.5" empty and it comes in way over that...
I guess I'll just have to measure the truck that I'm considering, and then also measure various points in the garage at work. I'm really looking to upgrade to a new SuperDuty, but it's much harder to justify if I also have to buy a beater car to commute in
On my SBCC SRW it lowered the rear 1.5", but I never measured the overall height.
I guess you could let enough air out of your rear tires to lower the rear 1.5" and then measure the highest point. I suspect it won't make much difference there.
I just lowered mine. It dropped the rear wheel arch 1.5". Since the highest point on the roofline is about 2/3 of the way between the front axle and rear axle then I'd say you should get about an inch drop at the highest point of the roofline. Just simple rise over run.
The mechanic that I had install the new risers and u-bolts said that the Ford bump stops (which are now 1 1/2" closer) are pretty weak and that with the increased likelihood of actually hitting them while towing our gooseneck trailer, that I should consider installing a heavier duty aftermarket bump stop. He mentioned a name, but I don't remember. Before I try to get ahold of him, do any of you guys have any experience with aftermarket bump stops?
