That looks good and I'm looking forward to doing likewise. Regarding aftermarket bump stops, Google is a friend ... search "2017 f250 rear bump stop" ... can also add "polyurethane" to your search for additional results. I was able find several images of various bump stops.

 

No need, the space between the bump stop and the spacer stays the same. The space reduced by 1.5"� is between the spacer and the axle. The travel stays the same

 

Ahhh, right! I should have realized that. Thanks.

 

I just got an F350....the height difference is +3.75" in the rear. I want to level it out more but don't want to do a front lift...1) I don't want to mess with front suspension geometry 2) The truck already has a very high stance and I am not looking to put 37s+ on.

Rear Block drop seems like a good option. Are there any rear end geometry considerations in doing this modification? Will something wear out over time dues to this? Thanks

 

All is good after changing out the block in mine

 

Possibly a dumb question here, but I've never dealt with a leaf spring suspension setup before - how do you swap the spacers out? I'm envisioning removing the u-bolts and then jacking up the bed/body of the truck somehow to slide the stock spacer out and install the new one. Sound about right?

Ordered the parts, should be here in time to make this a project for the upcoming weekend.

 

I jacked up the rear of the truck by the differential, supported the chassis with two jack stands, then let the differential down and up with the jack to separate it from the springs and replace the spacer. Just did one side at a time. When done jacked it back up enough to take the chassis weight off the jack stands, removed the jack stands, and let it down. It will take a lot of torque to R+R the U-bolt nuts. I had an 18 breaker bar that I slide the jack handle over so I'd have a really long bar.

 

Just did mine this morning with the factory 2” setup from the 2016 F250, I’m much happier with the rear height now as my fifth wheel was about 2” nose high with no adjustment left. Quick and easy solution with no downside!

 

I got the part# for 2" spacer...6C3Z-5598-A. What's the part # for the shorter U-bolts that fit it? Thanks

 

BC3Z--5705-K is the shorter U-bolt part number. Part number is per each - you will need 4. Doesn't include the nuts. I reused those.

 

subscribed - trying to figure out if i wanna do this

 

Ordered 6C3Z-5598-A spacers and BC3Z-5705-K U-bolts this past Saturday. I'm off work Thanksgiving week, and I hope to install 'em then.

 

Can you take some pics and post up? During install before and after, etc Thank you!

 

Yeah, I can do that. Will include before/after shots of a tape measure at the rear fenderwell lip, too. I don't like the idea of lifting the front (will keep my 20" OEM wheels/tires), and lowering the rear provides the extra benefit of getting my tailgate step a bit closer to the ground.

 

This post is in reply to a request to describe and illustrate the steps to replace the OEM lift blocks. I hope someone finds it useful, even if it means the reader decides to pay someone else to install them.

The smaller blocks and shorter U-bolts can be swapped out without removing the rear wheels. Leaving the wheels on also provides a little insurance if your jack or stands fail. Mine are all rated for 3 tons. Before raising the truck off the ground, I broke the nuts loose on the U-bolts to avoid leveraging those while the truck is up on the jack stands. Speaking of which, I used my jack’s handle slipped over an 18” breaker bar to rig a wrench about 3-feet long. Those nuts are very tough to get loose.

The U-bolt nuts require a 24mm deep wall socket or wrench. When I compared Craftsman 24mm and 15/16” wrenches side-by-side at Ace Hardware, I found them to be identical except for their markings. So, the only new tool I needed was a deep socket.

Photo #1 – After chocking the front wheels and jacking up the rear, I positioned the jack stands beneath the hitch receiver. The tires must be off the ground so the axle can be lowered later to free the OEM lift block. ADDED 11/25/17: If you do not unlock your truck before raising it with a jack, the security alarm will activate (don't ask me how I know).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1511308370

Photo #2 – Floor jack repositioned under the axle for it to hold the axle’s weight while loosening U-bolts. Apply only enough upward pressure with the jack to slightly lift only the axle. Please do not lift your truck off the jack stands while you’re under there.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1511308370

Photo #3 – Nuts on the U-bolts have been loosened but not removed. The axle has been lowered a small amount using the jack. Leaving the nuts on ensures you don’t drop the axle in the event you lower the jack too fast or too far. You can now see some light between the OEM lift block and the leaf springs.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1511308370

Photo #4 – The left side of the axle is supported entirely by the jack. The aft U-bolt has been removed along with the OEM lift block. Leave the forward U-bolt in place until after the short block and aft U-bolt are installed to avoid man-handling the bottom clamp.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1511308370

Photo #5 – Short block positioned atop the axle, and the axle has been raised to mate the block and leaf springs together (pin & hole alignment). Now is when the new aft U-bolt is installed and nuts hand-snugged. Once the aft U-bolt is in place, replace the forward U-bolt.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1511308370

Photo #6 – All 4 U-bolt nuts are tightened equally, and final torqueing will be accomplished after the truck is back on the ground.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1511308370

Halfway there. The other side is next repeating the steps shown in photos #2 through #6.

Photo #7 – There was only about 1” difference as measured at the left rear fender, and about 2” difference at the tailgate step. I may see another quarter inch difference after I drive it some and let the springs settle back down after being suspended.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1511308370

Photo #8 - The shorter lift blocks are only 1-1/4” shorter as compared to the CENTER of the OEM blocks. The OEM blocks are tapered while the shorter blocks are not. I’m hoping this swap doesn’t induce any driveline vibration from altering the pinion angle.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1511308370

Photo #9 – I was hesitant to include these images because the difference is not visibly apparent. Would have probably displayed the change better if I used a tripod, and let it sit still until I was finished. As it is, I tilted the camera during these handheld shots. Can you tell which is the “after” shot?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1511308370