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Just to keep the pot stirred on re-using the original U-bolts (which I did), vs. buying new ones...
The EatonDetroitSprings link has a great article defending installing new U-bolts, but it also states, near the end:
"Re-torqueing continues to move the nut up to new threads."
So if shorter spacers are being used, and an inch cut off the ends of the U-bolts, new threads are being used on those U-bolts. The unused threads are 1.5 inches up from the used ones...
New threads are not being used on the nuts, but everyone who's bought new U-bolts in this forum thread has reused the nuts, so we'll assume the nuts have cut threads then?
I'll keep checking mine to be sure nothing has worked loose, but so far so good.
Just to keep the pot stirred on re-using the original U-bolts (which I did), vs. buying new ones...
The EatonDetroitSprings link has a great article defending installing new U-bolts, but it also states, near the end:
"Re-torqueing continues to move the nut up to new threads."
So if shorter spacers are being used, and an inch cut off the ends of the U-bolts, new threads are being used on those U-bolts. The unused threads are 1.5 inches up from the used ones...
New threads are not being used on the nuts, but everyone who's bought new U-bolts in this forum thread has reused the nuts, so we'll assume the nuts have cut threads then?
I'll keep checking mine to be sure nothing has worked loose, but so far so good.
^^ This is my take on it as well, the nut will not be back at the same spot with the shorter blocks and will be into "new" threads, I will be using my original u-bolts.
I installed these custom lift blocks a couple weeks ago. They dropped the tailgate height by 1.5" or so. They're 2" in height and have the optional bumpstops.
I used the Ford blocks P/N:6C3Z-5598-A. The shocks made the biggest difference on country roads and rough streets. Dropping the air pressures to 50 psi made the biggest difference on the highway, but I'm sure they helped as well there.
Which shocks, specifically, did you use? The Fox website doesn't show any rear shocks compatible with a 2017 F-250 that I can see.
Got done this weekend. I replaced the original blocks with the 2016 blocks, which lowered the rear end about an inch and a quarter. Took about an hour and a half, and I replaced the U-bolts with new, shorter ones as well. There are enough threads on the original u-bolts for those who want to reuse them, but one issue you would have would be that a deep-well socket wouldn't be long enough to reach the nut, so you would either have to use a wrench or cut off the excess threads. In my opinion, for no more than they cost, the new shorter U-bolts are worth the money. For those of you who are interested, the part number for the shorter blocks is 6C3Z-5598-A, and the shorter U-bolts is BC3Z--5705-K. I ordered everything from Tasca, and I think it came to about $175 with shipping. It was a fair amount of manual labor while lying on your back, but overall I'm happy with the project.
@jergle thank you for posting.
I read you have a F250..do you [or others on the forum] know if there is a spacer difference from the F250 to F350 SRW? Does your F250 have the HD tow package? Could I use the shorter block 6C3Z-5598-A on the F350 axle. I know that certain F250s get the same axle as an F350 [I believe with HD tow package]?
svtride, I believe my 250 has the "camper package", but not sure if that's the same as the HD tow package. I'm sure others here are more knowledgable about the differences between the 250 and 350, but I've heard the only difference is an extra leaf spring on the 350. I imagine the spacer would be the same, but don't take my word for it. Anyone else know for sure?
svtride, I believe my 250 has the "camper package", but not sure if that's the same as the HD tow package. I'm sure others here are more knowledgable about the differences between the 250 and 350, but I've heard the only difference is an extra leaf spring on the 350. I imagine the spacer would be the same, but don't take my word for it. Anyone else know for sure?
As I said above, the block is the same on all 4x4 trucks for 2017. The camper pkg is separate from the HD tow pkg. The camper pkg adds the upper overload to the rear spring pack, the rear sway bar, and ups the front springs one level. (Same as the HD front spring pkg.) The high capacity trailer tow pkg changes your rear axle from the Sterling 10.5 to the M275 and maxes out the front springs. I believe it ups the rear spring count and adds the overload/sway bar too. Can't remember 100%. It also requires the 6.7 engine.
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