On the advice of BBD, I have acquired two M10-1.5 x 35 and two M10-1.5 x 40 bolts and two flat washers as flange bolts were not available locally. I plan to use brake cleaner and an air compressor to clean the threads, then run the 40mm bolt in to clean the threads more and check depth.

I will then use the 35mm or the 40mm, whichever is a better fit and some blue loctite. Once the starter is installed, I will update the thread with the right bolts and pictures.

 

Get a hold of West Texas off-road aka Redneck Ram, they ported my PSC box and will rebuild it if needed. You probably could have yours ported to go to hydro assist down the road, that takes a lot of stress off the box itself. I have no doubt that they can rebuild your steering box.
https://westtexasoffroad.wixsite.com/wtor

 

I managed to get the OEM starter out of the truck tonight after work. At first it was a huge pain in the *** because I was trying to remove the 2 power wires, but then figured that if I remove the starter mounting bolts and lower it a bit, then I will have much better access to the power wires.

I loosened the two very easy to get to bolts on the bottom, then fought with it a moment trying to find the upper one that I knew was there somewhere. After messing around with different wrenches and adapters I got the top bolt out. Then promptly removed the starter.

Pictures or it didn't happen...

As you can see from left to right is the OEM, 35mm and 40mm bolts. I have cleaned up the OEM bolts and threaded holes with brake cleaner and compressed air. I ran the 40mm bolts all the way through to ensure there was no debris in the holes. I plan to use the 40mm bolts, blue loctite and the locking washers when I install the Denso.

As you can see from the two starters, the mounting face is thicker on the Denso and I think this is where BBD ran into problems because the thread count into the mount was reduced. Also, I don't have the same type of bolts he has, so not sure if one of us has replacements or if the different models years were provided different hardware.

To my disappointment, the top bolt is used on the Denso starter too, so hopefully since I know the wrench and adapter combination now it will install much easier.




Denso vs OEM starter.

 

If the plate it bolts into is aluminum, I wouldn't use loctite. I'd be afraid of it tearing out the threads should you need to remove it. Threaded aluminum is truly the dumbest thing ever done by man.

 

It is in fact aluminum. Perhaps that is why they used locking washers when installing the bolts. I tested the housing with a magnet to be sure it was aluminum.

I did some quick research on this, and all I could find was free advice on sub-par (non FTE) forums saying blue loctite with a steel bolt into aluminum is OK. Although, I have nothing to loose by not using it at first and keeping an eye on the bolts.

Sticking with 40mm bolts and locking washers is the new plan of action, thanks for the advice. I will keep an eye on the bolts during oil changes by putting a socket on them and check for backing out. If they are in fact backing out a bit, I will then use loctite as I do not want that thing coming loose.

 

Nice side by side comparison. Maybe M10 x 45 would be the best bolt to go with, because of the thickness of the starter mounting plate?

Either way, using the 40mm is a lot better than the one that was in there. The M10x30 that I had in mine was maybe only 24mm because of the tip not being threatened. Then with that thick plate on the Denso, I may of only had 10mm of thread engagement?

Again, nice job.

BBD

 

Holy Smokes the new starter is a Beast!!

Better starting with less MPG from weight. LOL

 

You shouldn't have to worry about it Sous. I have changed three of these starters now on these trucks and never had a problem with any coming loose. And yeah, avoid the blue Loctite if you can. It's almost always a good idea, but not in this application.

Nice work! That starter is a force to be reckoned with. LOL

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence Byron. I have picked up 45mm and 50mm bolts to try on the mounting points as well. The two lower ones have an open end, but it looks like the top one bottoms out inside the case. I will take a closer look at it this evening when I get back under the truck.

I dry fit the new Denso up and it is a tight fit, but there is no cutting or trimming of the cross brace required.

Tell me, do you tend to hook up the wires and then lift the starter into the mounting point or do you mount the starter and fight with the wires after the bolts are secured?

I am leaning toward hooking up the wires and then mounting the starter, but am always open for others opinions that have been down this road.

 

I have done it without and it's not that bad, but if you do hook them up, make sure the batteries are disconnected (which I am sure you know) LOL

 

I would guess that top inside bolt would come out close to, if not under, the flywheel. When the starter is out maybe you can put your finger inside to see how deep you can go, and then determine what length and/or how many washers you would need to get adequate thread depth without going too far.

 

Now you tell me! Looks like it's new bolts and split washers next time I pull the starter.

I've always connected the wires before mounting the starter. Not the easiest method but I prefer to see electrical connections when I hook them up. Just my .02 and personal preference.

 

When I installed mine I had the fender liner out for other work. I have had that liner out three times now and I can remove it in 15 minutes or less, same with installation. The first time I removed it the bolts (I think there are three of them) were rusted and turned an easy job into a project. With the fender liner out you have great access to the top bolt and wires on the starter and I affixed the wires last. I figure that attaching the wires then pushing the starter up into place will put some strain on the wires as you pull, twist and push the starter into place with them on there and I don't like having to put new ends on old wires. Just my $.02.

 

I haven't pulled the starter on this truck yet, but when I did my 2wd '97, I taped up a cardboard box as a block with a little hole for the nose of the starter to sit in while I attached the wires. I then used a floor jack to raise it / hold it while I put in the bolts. The OEM starter is heavy enough, I can't imagine what that new thing weighs!

 

I do have the batteries out and of course disconnected the control wire (smaller wire) from the OEM starter first, then the main power wire. I used a small jack to support the gear part of the starter to not strain the wires. The wires do get moved around a bit, but nothing to the point where I thought they would be damaged.

Just read the post from Tom, I did a similar install method as I just described. The new Denso is 2x the weight, easily. I put it on my chest in order to squeeze under the truck for a dry fit.

I will take a close look at the top mounting point to see if it does in fact run through or if it is capped off in the case. I have new mounting bolts from 30mm to 50mm, so should be covered with any outcome.

Once the starter is in, then the steering gear comes out for the new Duralast. Then batteries and air box go back in to test everything out. Once everything has been verified, I will move on to the 2wd LOW in reverse and GPR light and document/create video for the 2wd LOW mod.