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Fall mod/upgrade session has begun

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  #91  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:12 AM
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When I first saw this thread, I thought it said "Fall mod/upgrade SEASON"

I thought, huh...I guess cooler weather before winter is a good "season" Guess I learned something, LOL

The one thing I hear repeatedly about soft covers is their tendency to shrink and get stiff if you leave it off or it is cold out.

A little time in the sun, or put it back on regularly is the answer.

Sous- As for the steering box...just put the warranty replacement on there and keep an eye on it. We're not going to Mars, so no NASA-specs required here, LOL.

Yeah, it stinks to do the work again, but from the feedback, Redhead isn't trouble-free, either

Besides, it's a good excuse to get a new tool!

Caution: Get a GOOD "pickle fork" "ball joint tool" or whatever you want to call it. I use/abuse them for lots of things where air tools won't always fit and require a hammer. That means watching the forked end while swinging a hammer briskly at the other end.

Wear a good glove on that hand. Smacking the side of your forefinger knuckle REALLY hurts and lasts a day or two

Did I mention that hitting your hand with the hammer REALLY hurts? LOL

Keep up the good work! Really enjoy your writeups and videos
 
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  #92  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:22 AM
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Does your tank fit under the cover? If not, what stops water from getting in when your cover is on and the tank is in?
 
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  #93  
Old 10-01-2017, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper View Post
Sous- As for the steering box...just put the warranty replacement on there and keep an eye on it. We're not going to Mars, so no NASA-specs required here, LOL.

Yeah, it stinks to do the work again, but from the feedback, Redhead isn't trouble-free, either
I agree 100%. If their repuatation was as it was a few years ago I probably would have gone ahead with the silly amount they cost. Although, I like to be sure about things and don't mind spending the extra money if the repair/upgrade warrants it. I mean I bought OUO traction bars and an ATTA 45 gallon tank due to their product reputation and nearly guaranteed results.

Sometime this week I plan to shoot a text message over to SkySkiJason to see what his thoughts are on the steering box and the two "real" options I am looking at which are MotorCraft and RedHead. I would like his experiences on what he normally installs and finds to work well. I trust him and know he is a very good mechanic.

Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter View Post
Does your tank fit under the cover? If not, what stops water from getting in when your cover is on and the tank is in?
I get it now... Yes, the ATTA45RBR is specifically designed to be below the bed rails of the truck. Everything including the fill neck is customized to the customers specifications when ordering and they did a great job. I had known since I bought the truck we were going to have a cover of some sort. We bought a topper when we still had the travel trailer and now since we have the 5th wheel we have the roll up cover.

Even the Andersen Ultimate Hitch rail version has a good 7" or so of clearance between the cover and the top of the ball.
 
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  #94  
Old 10-01-2017, 11:11 AM
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Decided to get the alternator installed this morning.




Old alternator



Old vs. new



Marks where I trimmed down the bracket a bit. I still used a single set of washers that came with the alternator because of the close proximity of the case and the radiator hose. The washers made me much more comfortable with the fit. <br/><br/>Covered up the spider and intake in order to keep aluminum shavings out of them. I used a shopvac and cleaned up the shavings from the rest of the bay, but you cannot get them all.



New alternator installed and waiting to be fired up. I painted the 3 mounting bolt heads just to give it a touch up real quick.
 
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  #95  
Old 10-01-2017, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Sous View Post
I painted the 3 mounting bolt heads just to give it a touch up real quick.
Just the heads? That's some weird sort of OCD if you ask me. A real OCD type would've clear coated the new case to keep it clean and shiny.

I'd like to do this mod myself, but like you I've other things that need my wallet's attention. But I eagerly await my alternators failure. Looks good!
 
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  #96  
Old 10-01-2017, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SaintITC View Post
Just the heads? That's some weird sort of OCD if you ask me. A real OCD type would've clear coated the new case to keep it clean and shiny.

I'd like to do this mod myself, but like you I've other things that need my wallet's attention. But I eagerly await my alternators failure. Looks good!
Yes, just the heads. I stuck them through some cardboard and painted them. They dried while I was prepping the rest of the pieces.

I don't call it OCD, I call it "attention to detail". My wife and everyone else calls it OCD too though..
 
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  #97  
Old 10-01-2017, 12:03 PM
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Getting the free warranty replacement steering box is the way to go IMO. Far less cost and hassle and it's probably going to be fine. Hopefully removal of the pitman arm is no trouble, given the recent installation. I'd try hard to get a puller that fits instead of beating on it with a pickle fork.

So the bed cover rolls up and lays on top of the bed? If I can tempt your inner Ansel Adams, a pic of that showing relationship to the fuel tank would be neat. Most rolling/folding covers like the Peregon I put on go inside the bed and eat up the last foot or so of bed space. Complicates the placement of fuel tanks etc.

on painting the bolt heads! Leaving them scabby next to a perfectly clean alt would be an eye magnet. That's why I leave mine as dirty as possible, no jarring contrasts.
 
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  #98  
Old 10-01-2017, 12:51 PM
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David, I agree at this point in the repair/replacement.

I don't foresee the removal of the ball joint from the pitman arm being difficult. I had it apart 7 months ago and it has been soaking in ATF for an unknown period of time by now. I did rent the same very large puller that I had to use to get the original pitman arm off the original gear.

The best part of this is that when I bought the first Duralast gear I bought a new pitman arm with it because of the amount of time I had to devote to the repair.

So, now I have the original sitting on my work bench and can mount the arm to the second Duralast gear box. I don't see this repair taking much time at all, and my hopes are high that the warranty replacement box will be fine.

Pictures below are of the cover rolled up. As you can see, the straps are quite loose at this point as I want to see how much it moves around when at speed. If it sits still, I will leave them a bit loose, if it bounces around, I will cinch them down a bit more.

You can see the fill port for the tank just behind the drivers side.




View from passenger side. The tank is clearly visible with the fill port in the distance. When I ordered the tank, I asked that the fill port be as far rearward and toward the drivers side as much as possible. Worked out very well. <br/><br/>Also, as you can see, no velcro or snaps of any kind.



View from the tailgate area.
 
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  #99  
Old 10-01-2017, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous View Post
Sous I'd be worried about that thermostat housing on the water pump in the lower left corner of that picture if that were my truck. I know those like to rust out but yours looks really bad.

Also just to clarify a point above. You need the pitman arm puller to remove the arm from the steering box. No pickle fork is used there. You may use either the pickle fork or the upside-down castle nut trick to separate the tie rod end from the pitman arm, but it's not necessary unless you are actually replacing that tie rod end. If you're not, you can just remove the pitman arm from the box and let it hang while you're swapping them.
 
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  #100  
Old 10-01-2017, 02:29 PM
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That's what my old one looked when when I replaced it in November 2014. Notice how it was leaking around the thermostat housing. Yours might be doing the same thing. Is there any play in the shaft when you wiggle the fan?
 
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  #101  
Old 10-01-2017, 03:14 PM
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The water pump is one of the first things I changed out when I bought the truck 3.5 years ago. It is the Diesel Site pump and I didn't even think about painting it before installing it. I called them about a year after installing it when it started showing surface rust and they said that the internals would be fine and the surface rust would not be a problem in the long run. I did have to put a very thin coat of RTV between the housing and the pump around the same time I called Diesel Site to ask about the surface rust.

I just went out and check the fan and clutch. The fan and clutch have no wiggle (zero) and there is no leaking around the thermostat housing. There is a bit of RTV residue on the outside and frankly it looks worse in the pictures than it does in person. I do wish I had painted the pump, but I didn't, so it is what it is.

I have thought that when I replace/upgrade the injectors if the cups need to come out I will remove the water pump as well, put some rust reformer on it and paint it. Until then, I don't really plan on evacuating the ELC that is in there.
 
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  #102  
Old 10-01-2017, 07:43 PM
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Dont forget to do the "Big 3" i posted on this thread, believe me this mod is well worth it, you will see the full potential of the charging syatem in your truck.
 
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  #103  
Old 10-02-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify View Post
Dont forget to do the "Big 3" i posted on this thread, believe me this mod is well worth it, you will see the full potential of the charging syatem in your truck.
To be honest, I had forgotten about it. Just to be clear, please check my list below for accuracy.

1. 1/0 red cable with fuse near battery from alternator hot terminal to + post of drivers battery in addition to existing cable.

2. 1/0 black cable from drivers side battery - post to drivers side of engine block replacing existing cable.

3. 1/0 black cable from passenger side battery - post to chassis (I forget where the cable goes for sure, but it has been cleaned) replacing existing cable.

I will have to put this on a future to do list, but at least I have a good shop to go to now for the cables and ends.
 
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  #104  
Old 10-02-2017, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Sous View Post

As for the Duralast, I agree that this is not the route I would like to take. But, since I just spent ~$1000 on an alternator, AGM batteries and Denso starter a $500 RedHead is not in the cards. .
I have the Denso Starter on my truck and its a Beast. It actually pulled the factory M10 x 30 bolts out of that plate between the engine and transmission.

You may want to consider longer bolts when installing the starter.

Factory bolt 1.5 thread pitch.

Once you add the starter, it seems that the bolt only goes a little more than half way into the plate.

You may be able to use M10 x 35 or M10 x 40, fully threaded bolt.
BBD
 
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  #105  
Old 10-02-2017, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Sous View Post
To be honest, I had forgotten about it. Just to be clear, please check my list below for accuracy.

1. 1/0 red cable with fuse near battery from alternator hot terminal to + post of drivers battery in addition to existing cable.

2. 1/0 black cable from drivers side battery - post to drivers side of engine block replacing existing cable.

3. 1/0 black cable from passenger side battery - post to chassis (I forget where the cable goes for sure, but it has been cleaned) replacing existing cable.

I will have to put this on a future to do list, but at least I have a good shop to go to now for the cables and ends.
Two grounds one from -battery to chassi and the other to the body.

You have two batterys so double up on wire
 
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