Not having ESOF, I have no idea how these things are wired, but maybe Mark is on to something. Is it possible to actually replace the factory 2HI/4HI/4LO switch with the four position one he mentioned, and move all of the associated wiring/relays to somewhere else under the dash? Certainly a bit more work and likely money, but more intuitive and cleaner once complete.

 

Perhaps something like this 4-position 16v DC switch from Mouser for only $7? >>> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...wNI%2fNpqq8%3d

Might even be able to use the existing switch **** and just have a new back plate made for it. I bet a customized back plate would cost less than a customized rocker switch.

 

I was wondering if the 4 position switch for the HVAC fan could be removed from its housing and moved over. It could keep the Ford **** on it. One problem I see with that, though, is that position 1 is always on in low.

 

That would be a great way to go, but way above my pay grade or experience level. If one of you engineer types wants to take that on, I will certainly use the advice and instructions provided in the future.

The switch should be here tomorrow, it was coming from Charleston, SC.

It cost me $18 shipped to have the switch cover customized which included the actual SPST switch. I paid $4 for the POS one from O'Rielly's, so I thought that $18 for a custom one was pretty good.

I hope to get to the mod this Saturday.

 

Took the POS switch back to O'Riely's today and took the Super Start Ext Gold batteries that came out of the truck too. They were 2 months from being out of their 36 month warranty, so now I have 2 brand new (9/17 manufacture date) Super Start Ext batteries.

I am going to list them on Craigs List locally for a deep discount which will offset the price of the NorthStar batteries even more.

 

I'd be cautious about adding big grounds to the body.

Add big (low resistance) ground paths to the block all day. Add ground webbing from the body to the frame, fine. But creating low resistance paths for high engine starting current to alternatively flow through the body in the event that the block ground bolt succumbed to high resistance corrosion, due to incorporating the body into a potentially less resistive flow path enabled by a fresh hunk of meaty copper from battery to body? Here is where some caution is might be advised, because of the PCM and the GEM ground to the body.

There is a science behind grounding in a vehicle. I don't claim to know the science, but there is a method to the madness, and sometimes even the OEMs, with all of their engineering resources, still get it wrong.

Take for example the Super Duty wiper motor, that grounds on the same specific grounding circuit as the PCM. How often have we read of, and/or experienced, CPS failures only when the intermittent wipers were turned on? The thread titles typically say "truck suddenly shut off in the rain". Ultimately, this is an emf noise issue that afflicts hall effect sensors through the ground circuit.

So when thinking about a high torque starter motor, and the electrical noise it can generate, never mind the high current it can draw... having the shortest, most direct, and least restrictive path to the ground post of the battery would favor battery to block grounds. I'd leave the body out of it.

 

The switch arrived today in the mail and I am very happy with it for less than $20 shipped.

I have all of the pieces needed to start and hopefully finish the mod tomorrow. I should have the video done Sunday and posted to YouTube shortly after that.

Picture of the switch.

 

You know...

If you didn't duplicate the word "Hubs" and abbreviated "Manual" you could have had a...


"MAN "

Switch!

Of course you KNOW people with have to press it, just to see if the turret appears or flames shoot out while the jet engine fires up

The switch looks pretty good and the price is right! It should be a nice finished look, can't wait for the pics

BTW, if you want to make an interlock, you can power the new switch that closes the solenoid, or opens the circuit (I haven't looked at the mod yet) with a relay circuit triggered by the OEM 4LO switch position.

Benefits:

1) Your switch would only be 'active' when in 4LO, not 4HI, not 2HI

2) When switching out of 4LO, the solenoid function returns to normal circuit, even if you forget to move your switch.

3) You could leave your new switch 'ON' and switching to 4LO would automatically go into 2LO

Make sure you double check the wiring, I am not familiar with the 4wd switch or this mod's wiring

 

Yes, nice switch. Would of been good if it had a light to let the person driving no if it was on or off. But I guess you would know right away when you drove it.

 

I've just been looking at the supplier that Sous used, there are options for illumination, I'm watching this with interest as I need 2wd lo in my life.

 

Mod is done and it works like a champ! I took many pictures and videos and will compile them into a complete and quick video tonight/tomorrow. I should have the video uploaded to YouTube tomorrow.

I didn't want a lighted or light indicator switch, but others may feel differently. This video will be just a quick how-to and you are more than welcome to install whatever switch you like.

I realized that those with automatic trucks could use this switch to have low gear in forward motion as well. Those of us with a ZF6 already have low gear forward and I installed the switch to have low gear in reverse as well.

Stay tuned!

 

Are you starting a new thread or adding to this one?

 

I will start a new thread and post the video there as well as here.

Just cleaned up the BS pictures and videos. Will start making/editing the video after a few cold beers.

 

I' glad it worked out. waiting for pictures,.

 

Almost done with the video now. Seemed to have lost a picture or two that I am looking for now. Will be done soon.

EDIT: Had to go and retake the pictures that I lost somehow.