So close yet so far..... Keep after it! I hope when you get it done it's everything you wanted it to be.

 

True....I figure one more good weekend should have it licked. And I can’t wait! I think it’s gonna be awesome!

 

Can't wait to see some video of this beast in action!

 

Definitely gonna get some video! Buddy of mine has a go-pro with a gimbal mount that I might be able to use. Though, if I can rig up my phone, I'll probably use that.

 

You may already be anticipating this but don't go romping on it too hard in the lower gears! The rear leaf springs are gonna twist into a question mark and when you push the clutch pedal down they go back to an arch with a big BANG! My rig needs traction bars big time but the only thing in the budget right now is a house when the right one appears.

 

I hadn't really thought about that! Thanks!

I don't generally romp on it at all, but I'll definitely be doing some harder pulls once I get my clutch broken in. Therein lies the issue. I have to seat the rings by pulling hard and heat cycling it, but for the first 500 miles, I need to take it easy on my single disk clutch. Valair recommends lots of engage/disengage, not downshifting to slow down, and no highway driving. I'm not cranked on HP, so I should be able to keep it in line. Probably should wait a week of driving normally before I hook 8K to the back and pull a bunch of backroad hills.

 

Well, another full weekend in the books and still not driving. Close though.

Started out at the salvage yard hunting the fan shroud, brackets, and overflow tank from the 5.4 X that's there. Got that out pretty easily and also walked by another Ford small SUV (not sure what model) and saw a small overflow tank that was mostly removed. Grabbed that as well. Hunted around for a few other small parts with no joy. Turns out the fan shroud would not work and even if it did, the intercooler pipe would not allow the 7.3 style overflow tank enough clearance. So, back to the drawing board. Turns out, there's another 12V Cummins out of a Dodge sitting in a certain barn that I have access to. I was able to trade my industrial intake horn for the Dodge angled version. That let me use the 6.0 overflow tank in it's original location. Got the lower radiator hose built out of some known parts I had. I used some 2" copper pipe, a 90 degree 2 1/4" hose from NAPA, and part of the lower radiator hose from the 6.0. This way, if something goes out on the road, I can purchase known parts and make what I need. Got everything put together on the motor, filled with coolant, and fired it up for camshaft break-in. Camshaft break-in went well without issue. Held at high RPM (Swaphelper still not reading correct for some reason) for 10 minutes or so. After that, I noticed coolant leaking down the flywheel housing. Ugh. Chased that around and couldn't for the life of me figure out where the heck it was coming from. At the bottom, it looked as though the rear freeze plug was leaking, but I couldn't feel anything. So, got out the small borescope to use, followed it up the end of the tappet cover, and lost it again. Finally, after cursing incessantly, and being super worried that I had a head gasket problem, I found two foam earplugs stuck in a hole under the head just behind the injection pump. When I painted the engine, I put those in there to keep paint out of the hole. Stupid me didn't remove them and put a plug in when I got done. Boy did I feel stupid. Got that fixed, only to find another leak. There's a rubber o-ring between the AC bracket/lower water inlet on the passenger side that was leaking coolant. Not good as that entire side of accessories has to come out to remove it. Intercooler pipe, intake and filter, alternator, AC pump, then the bracket. It also happens to be the tightest spot in the whole install. I was NOT happy. So, removed all that stuff and noticed some corrosion around the area of the o-ring. So, assuming that was it, I cleaned everything up, and reinstalled with some black RTV. Let that sit for at least 4 hours while I reinstalled the front bumper, header panel, headlights, and rear bumper. Those are not nearly as nice as the rest of the build, so they'll be coming off next spring to get reworked.

Got it all back together in record time, filled with coolant, fired it, and I'll be darned if it didn't leak again, this time coupled with a fuel leak at the filter housing. It was not a happy day. So, I canned the day, installed the hood, and walked away. This week, I'll head out tomorrow through Friday, tear it all down again, use the proper sealant this time, put it all back together, and wait 24 hours before filling with coolant. I ordered a new seal for the water inlet and a new check valve with sealing washers for the filter housing. So, with any luck, I'll be driving it home on Friday night. I also got the brakes bled.

There's still a ton to do on this build, but I have some fall projects that need attending to. Off the top of my head, the list is:

AC charge and getting that working
Tow mirrors (which I may get to)
New front and rear bumpers
Stereo install (which I'll get to)
Tint on the rear glass is coming off
Reverse lights on a switch (short term)
Reverse lights using the G56 sensor (long term)
Window deflectors (which I have and will get to)
Fixed running boards (Have a line on some)
Powered running boards (long term, if I find some that aren't $1500)
Larger tires (may or may not do depending)
Build and connect the linkage for the transfer case (this needs to move up the list)

A few pictures...

Corrosion on the water inlet

It's down in a hole...this is with everything removed

Cleaned up

Dodge intake installed

90 NAPA hose

All put back together!!!

 

Wow, looks like you are VERY close!

 

Whew! Where to start??

First, thanks to everyone for following along with this. It's been difficult at times and long time coming. Clifford is back on the road!! Wooo!!



Thursday and Friday last week I was able to tear down the water inlet bracket and get a new seal back in with the proper sealant. Let it sit for 24 hours, filled it up Friday evening, and it was dripping again. I decided to take it for a spin. Did enough to get up to operating temperature, checked it, and no more drips. It's the darndest thing I've ever seen. In any case, I brought it home Friday evening. Took a small trip up to the Dayton area (45 miles each way) to pick up a set of 2019 running boards off of a 4 door dually. They're the long ones, which won't fit the X, but I traded out with my brother in law for his standard set (4 door 2019 F-350), which will fit perfectly! I'm still relearning how to drive it, and it's SUPER different. Some things I'm noticing:

1. Suspension/Steering: Procomp leafs with Bilstein shocks. Ride is awesome. It's "stiffer" than stock, but not overly so. I attribute that to the shocks (vs. the KYB Monomax). No rear sway bar, and I'm totally fine with it. I do have to adjust my steering wheel back to center as the lift caused it to rotate around. Steering in general is very easy, the new ball joints are a little tight but not terrible, and it's easily one handed at highway speeds. I do have a small amount of play in the system (wander?) that I attribute to the steering box likely being original to the X. It's going on the list, but not til spring. Brakes work flawlessly but my parking brake does not. I need to get under there and adjust them after making sure that the cables actually work when I press the pedal. Everything looks serviceable, but I hadn't tested them ahead of time. Kind of wish I had.

2. Engine: TOTALLY different feeling, sound, noise, everything from the 6.0 (expected). Runs out great, starts and idles great hot or cold, oil pressure is fine, no issues, no leaks (anymore). It's loud compared to the 6.0. The turbo whistle on a straight piped 6.0 is super loud and I don't have that any more. Not sure how to describe it, but it feels and sounds super different (as it should). My tach is still not correct, so shift points are done by ear and feel. Not quite used to it yet, but I'm getting there. Smoke: I have some, especially if I don't get/keep the RPM's up where they should be. The boost and EGT gauge I installed (traded for my grab handle for the pillar and gauges) don't seem to work correctly. EGT is a no go and the boost reads sometimes. I think possible the boost gauge is correct and that my wastegate is not operating properly. I was only able to build 10-12psi at WOT on a highway pull. Should be ~25. So, the FSM for Dodge has a method to adjust/tune the wastegate, but it's buried. I'll be adding a "boost elbow" to see what I can get. Likely will block it off, make a run, and make sure I don't have a gross leak (don't think I do). I'll tune it from there and/or get a leak tester together to find out where the problem lies. I believe I have enough air with the HX35 to run the 5x.012's I have. My AFC (star wheel) is tuned for full fuel at 30PSI and the fuel stop plate is in the rear'ish position. I still have plenty of available fueling. EDIT: Just ran an errand and the boost gauge doesn't seem to work at all. New one on order to go with the new EGT gauge.

3. Transmission/Drivetrain: The G56 takes some getting used to. The split from 3 to 4 isn't terrible, but it's not great either (IMHO). The trans certainly will let you know if it isn't happy with gear selection though as it can get very noisy (I knew it would be). Clutch seems to be operating flawlessly (single disk Valair) and it's breaking in nicely. First drive was a bit jerky as the disengage comes off all at once. It's getting better and I'm able to feather it a bit. I have noticed that my shift timing is off just a bit. If I pull out of gear prior to getting the clutch all the way in, there's a loud click. I have to watch that so I don't tear something up. Also, if I let off the throttle all the way quickly, the torque unloads through the drivetrain and I can definitely feel it. Another thing to watch doing. Overall, happy with the choices I made and I think it'll work out fine. It'll be interesting to see how it pulls the camper and boat next spring. Tires: I'm happy keeping the Michelins. They look a tad small, but I'll take it given the longevity I've had with them. When they wear out, I'll likely go to larger wheels and tires. Still keeping my eyes peeled for a set of the rare SVT's. I'd jump on those in a heartbeat.

4. Exterior/Interior: Installed the window visors and they worked out great. the tracks in the front windows may be a bit worn as they didn't want to seat all the way on install, but I was able to help them out with a little hand pressure. I tried to swap out the mirrors and realized that I have to take the door panel off to get to the last bolt. I canned the idea for now. Mirrors aren't going anywhere and I'm not towing anything soon. Fine for now as I have to pick my battles. Drove to a party Saturday evening and it was raining and nasty. My headlights were NOT helping at all. I was thinking about it on Sunday and trying to decide which direction to go with headlights and it dawned on me: I just raised the front about 4", of course they work for crap. They aren't pointed the right way!! Duh. Also got the Kenwood stereo installed with the steering wheel controls. Everything works great except I can't figure out how to set a preset radio station. Apple Car Play works great as well and I was able to send a text and make a call via Siri. Lower F650 dash seems right at home, but I didn't hook up the gauge illumination yet and I need to. I have a pigtail wire off of the stereo illumination already, so just have to wire it in. Bumpers are trashed (basically) and will need some work. Still unsure if I want to build my own or just find some nice takeoff's. Time will tell. I also still have some rocker rust to deal with so I'll be tackling that as weather and time allow as I want a solid foundation for the new running boards.

Overall, SUPER DUPER happy with how it turned out! I'll get some video going ASAP once I figure out how to film and drive at the same time. Certainly can't do it while shifting. I'll also get some video if the engine bay, startup, running, going through the gears, etc.

Definitely NOT done with this build, and I'll keep working and posting up!

 

Congrats on getting it back on the road! It feels really good to get back out in something you built!

I had a couple thoughts for you...

1. Transmission - not sure if it will help here, but I rebuilt my Ranger's 5 speed. Much smaller than what you are working with, but I had quite a bit of gear noise in it. I replaced bearings and synchros, none of which were real bad. However, after the rebuild I put AMSOIL Signature Series ATF in (it is supposed to have ATF in it by spec) and the gear noise I expected to still be there in lower rpms was gone. I have had really good luck with their products. It looks like the G56 uses calls for the same product from AMSOIL. It may help quiet it down some. It calls for 6 quarts which doesn't seem too bad. You can pay $20 for their yearly membership and it takes the fluid from $16.95 a quart down to $13.00 so it wouldn't pay off here but would help if you need any other of their products. I am not a rep, just a believer in their products. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=ATFPK-EA
2. If the headlights are still inadequate, you can always do an HID conversion. The Retrofit Source sells vehicle specific kits now to make it easy if you don't want to piece your own kit together. You even have the option to go LED instead of HID for the projectors. On my to-do list but haven't got there yet. See here: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/19...t-package.html
3. Bumpers... there are so many that look good but you can pay out the nose for them. MOVE Bumpers seem to be a nice compromise and you can build them yourself. There are tons of options. You can see them on their website: https://www.movebumpers.com/gallery/...sion/1999-2004

I look forward to seeing what else you have up your sleeve!

 

Thanks! It does feel great driving around in something I've built!

Thanks for the info as well! I looked at all sorts of ATF for use in the G56, and the more I read, I realized that these transmissions weren't designed for ATF (even though Dodge specs it). Mercedes recommends 75 or 90W gear lube, and the dodge folks that have these transmissions generally run 50W gear lube. I opted for the 75W90 synthetic variety. Folks also recommend running 7 quarts instead of the 5 that gets you to the fill line. I have about 6.5 in mine and the first time I change it, I'll probably go with 7. The only problem with that is you have to fill it from the shift tower, which is a pain to deal with. My only concern is in cold weather the lube may be a bit thick until it gets warmed up. I didn't know you could be a member with Amsoil, so I'll check that out as I use their products on occasion. On the headlights, thanks for that link! I've been contemplating that route, but while in the build I just couldn't justify the expense. Now that my pocketbook isn't so stressed, it's definitely an option. Have you done the conversion? Do you happen to know if there's a thread here somewhere? I'd like to see how folks actually do that...

And the Move bumpers...looks like a pretty good product and would certainly mean that I could still "build" them and not have to spend hours and days fabricating them myself. Might be easier if I had a hydraulic brake or something I could bend and shear steel with, but cutting a straight line with a grinder is not in my skillset. I was thinking those were more expensive than that, so also may be an option.

Thanks for all the input!!

 

I understand the stress on the pocketbook. I went through the same thing with my Ranger. By the end I wanted it on the road and tabled several things I would've liked to do. I did not realize the different recommendations on the fluid in the G56. I just did some quick reading, but you know what you are talking about. You just need some time to see how it handles. For the fluid change, AMSOIL offers several lubes in squeeze packs instead of bottles to simplify the filling. They offer the trans fluid and most gear lubes in this style. They are a little more expensive, but seem to be worth it for the sake of aggravation.



As for the headlights, I have not done it but I have read the builds. They can be tedious, but it seems like some patience and some trial and error on fit and finish they come out pretty nice. This thread looks like it could be of help: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...right-way.html. They are for an OBS but are at least similar.

Hydraulic brake is another item I am also interested in. I have the HF 20 ton press. It's a steal at $145 with a coupon: https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton...ess-32879.html

As for the brake, I plan to turn to Swag Offroad. They offer a 4 different kits for the HF press. Light and heavy duty and standard and finger brake. They also offer different dies for more complex bends if needed. They can be found here and range from $180-$300. They will also weld it for you for an additional charge. https://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Pre...Kits_c_53.html

Finally, if you plan to build your own the air dryer you built is ideal for running a plasma cutter. That is why I built mine. I went with a PRIMEWELD 60 amp but they offer a 50 amp that was more reasonable price and would've been fine for what I do. I wanted the CNC port for possible future use and it had the 50 amp plug instead of the 30 amp plug on the 50 amp models. The machine's amp ratings our DC output, not AC input.

60 Amp is $649: . I can attest to very nice build quality for a Chinese machine and excellent tech support from the company. The user manual was pretty crappy, but that is a small detail in my mind.

50 Amp is $399:
They also offer a 50 amp with DC TIG and Stick capability for the same price. I haven't compared apples to apples on the 50 amp models though:
Finally they have nice Italian made TEC.MO torches and I order some consumables from a weld shop on eBay made by TEC.MO. They are superior to the Chinese consumables that came with the machine. I can give you the info if you need it.

 

@wizkid00104 @EXSwap
I will recommend TRS to everyone for the quality of products and the excellent customer service. I have bought 3 different set of HID retrofit kits from them and have been very happy. Having said that, just a word of caution. If you are planning to use the 05+ style of headlight housing (like in my sigpic), please do not buy the Bi-LED projectors. Instead get the D2S HID. While the projector itself will fit fine inside the reflector housing, the shrouds will not be a good fit, as they are all taller than the reflector housing. I have tried a few different options for the shrouds and am yet to fine one that will fit, given that every one of these shrouds for the Bi-LED projectors will need to be trimmed and shaped. The D2S HID projectors are excellent. I had them on my previous EX and was very happy with the lighting. Updates on my EX (link in sig) has more details and experiences of the HID projector setup.

I bought the LED projectors during the thanksgiving sale last year. I am considering going back to the older style headlight housing to be able to fit the LED projectors. Or find someone with a 3D printer that can make a smaller scale shroud for me. For now, this project has been temporarily shelved

PS: TRS will have a 25% coupon coming out soon and that should help keep the total cost manageable. They have had this promo every year now for the past 5-6 years, that I have subscribed to their updates.

 

That is really helpful, thank you! Nice to hear it from someone who has experience with them. And the coupon is a big help too

 

Super awesome info!! Thanks to both of you! I'm in Rep jail for @unleashd unfortunately.

Pulling up to the office this morning, my headlights are in serious need of help. With that, I'll move the headlights up the list. The link to the OBS build was very helpful and seems as though it's very workable to make the change. I'll check out both manufacturers and see where I land. I saw the Bi-LED's and kind of wondered about them. Seems like they'd be a little more long lasting, but the HID's have a decent lifespan and (though I didn't really confirm) seems like you'd be able to just buy new HID bulbs (as opposed to doing the entire retrofit over again. I'm really digging the light output by picture and I see them on the road constantly. They're super bright.

On the plasma cutter, I'd looked at those a while back and seemed like they were pretty expensive. A buddy of mine has one he'd let me use, but those are definitely options for me. It would be nice to have one in my own garage so I could take my time. Looked at the Move bumpers again and the rears don't really suit my taste. I really like having the upper portion of the bumper flat to stand on and theirs are all tapered. So, maybe buy the front and build the rear. Who knows.

And I had no idea that there are squeeze packs for lubricants!! Who would have thought!! There's a vent tube in the top of the shift tower on the G56 that I could maybe fill through. I think the 75/90 would take forever to push through that little hole, but if I switch to 50W, may not be as much of a problem. Then I'd only have to take the shift boot off to do a fluid change. I wonder if the 12V oil change pump I have laying around would push the gear lube in....hmm... On the other hand, removing the shift tower is only 4 bolts (though I do have to reseal it each time after cleaning). I suppose it's a good idea to inspect what I can through the hole in the top of the trans as well. All the little things to be worked out....

EDIT: And on the brake....again, super cool. I guess I'll have to spring for a press at some point in the near future....