Well, no dice on the NP273. Apparently, the ESOF transfer cases do not have a neutral position. I am able to change the range with a 14mm wrench under the X. So, last night I blocked the wheels and cycled through several times and couldn't find a neutral position. I was able to have 2wd with the front shaft able to rotate and the X will move. Next detent, which I assume is 4wd H, the front shaft still spins by and and the X will move under power. Third detent, no front shaft rotation by hand. I assume this is 4wd L. I confirmed this through a few old posts on FTE that I was able to find last night. Really NOT happy. The only good news is that the 271 transfer case should be exactly the same size and overall shape, which will keep me from having to have driveshaft mods done.

So, couple of things.

1. I need a 271, which I think may be sitting in the local yard but I'll have to go verify. It'll have to get rebuilt, a new input shaft put in for the G56, and paint, etc.
2. I need to come up with an easy method for driveshaft removal and storage while flat towing the X.

It'll be a pain in the you know what every time I have to hook up and unhook the X from the coach, especially on hills and tight camping spots. So, it order to make it secure going down the road, I'm going to look at fabricating a plate attached to the frame such that I can remove the 4 bolts from the rear flange, swing the shaft over, and then attach it with the same bolts to another plate. That will keep it up an out of the way and not swinging around on a strap or wire while going down the road.

At this point, for the flat tow, I still have to have a riser hitch made and wire the lights in for connection to the coach. That, and install the Air Force 1 brake system in that I scored from eBay for $90. Hopefully it actually works.

 

If you get a manual shifting 271 transfer case (that has a neutral position), why do you need to disconnect the driveshafts?
.
.
.

 

At this point i would have just bought a twin axle trailer to put the Ex on and called it good.

 

Driveshaft disconnect is for before I get the 271. That should have been #1 on the list. Given my fall schedule, I'd be willing to bet a 271 doesn't get installed until next year.
Most campgrounds don't really have the space available for a trailer, which is why I didn't push the tow dolly issue any further than measuring for the car initially (which wouldn't fit that particular dolly).

The X is a gigantic vehicle to flat tow by "normal" standards. Most folks will flat tow a Jeep, or other small SUV, but most tow small cars. At this point, it's a challenge that I've decided to take on. I wanted a manual transfer case anyway, I just thought that I could make the 273 a manual one. I can I guess, just not with neutral.

 

Keith,
The sterling 10.5 is a full floating axle. You could leave the center caps off the rear wheels and pull the axles out when you wanted to tow the X. Make a little blank off plate out of some scrap steel or aluminum to bolt over the hole and you're good to go.
You wouldn't ever have to get on the ground to go into and out of tow mode at all. And when disconnecting the X from the coach at the campground, you could just put the X in 4x4 and drive it over to a convenient parking spot with the front tires until you got around to reinstalling the rear axle shafts.

Get some kind of all weather dual rifle case (something with an o-ring seal that's airtight, Harbor Freight sells Pelican knockoffs), to store the axles in when you towing it so you don't stink up the inside of the X with gear oil smell when the axles are out.
.
.
.

 

That might work for a short pull but on a long one I think you might run into issues with the outer wheel bearings as they are lubricated by gear oil that gets pulled down the axle tube by the axle shafts.

 

Not saying you're wrong or disagreeing, but what design feature would encourage the oil to travel down the length of the axle shaft???

There aren't any threads, oil slingers or scrolls down the length of the axles shafts that I remember seeing.

Looking at the location of the stock oil fill plug, it would seem as though the lower porting of the axle tube would have oil it if you filled the differential up until oil came out the fill hole (see pic below). Why wouldn't the oil simply fill the lower portion of the axle tube. If that's the case then the roller elements of the bearing will be traveling through oil and self lubricating.

Again, I've never tried to flat tow a sterling 10.5 (or any other full floating axle) without the axle shafts in before, but I don't see/ don't understand how the axle shafts could be responsible for oiling the wheel bearings. I could see how the big ring gear not turning up and slinging oil everywhere could cause a lack of oil at the wheel bearing though.

Picture courtesy of google image search.

 

It would probably have something to do with the fact that the oil is extremely heavy so it sticks to the axle shaft and as it is spun travels down the shaft to the bearings. The excess oil in the hub then gets drawn back to the pumpkin housing by a slight taper on the inside of the housing to allow the oil to return via gravity. But I am not an automotive engineer by any stretch of anyone's imagination so I could be wrong. That's just how I see it working in my head.

 

If Banks power website animations are accurate (and IDK if they are or not), then ring gear motion is responsible for providing oil to the wheel bearings. So flat towing with the axle shafts removed would be a bad idea.

Guess you're still gonna have to lie on your back at the campground and re-install a driveshaft until you can get a 271 transfer case.

Here's a link to the Banks Power website that I pulled the below gif from.

https://www.bankspower.com/i-2931-ra...ring-gear.html

 

Thanks fo the suggestions! I think in the short term, the driveshaft is the most efficient. Provided that the campsites we're headed to in the near future are fairly easy to get into, shouldn't be too much trouble. The yard has two super duties with auto transmissions and floor shifters, which I assume are 271's or at a minimum some version of the 273 that actually has a neutral position. I'll head over this weekend and check them out. With any luck, I can grab one and get going on it.

Weekends are filling up this fall so hopefully my projects keep moving. I still want to get the rockers replaced (inner and outer) before winter sets in if at all possible. We shall see!

Next up on the project list is the install of the Air Force braking system, wiring up the electrical for lights, etc. I also have a guy building me a riser for the tow bar today so I can grab that this weekend. It's a 12" riser with an extra receiver on top of that for additional height if I need it next set of tires. I'll post up pictures. He charged me a SUPER low price as far as I'm concerned and he's a hell of a welder so I'm excited to see the outcome!

 

Be aware that the model year 2011 and up transfer cases are a little different. Here's a link that explains the differences.

https://torqueking.com/category/1999...transfer-case/

 

Thanks! These are 06 trucks I think, so should be the 271. Will be nice if they're still actually in the trucks...

 

Well, I guess I should update this thread. Ive been lurking but MIA on any work to do with Clifford for probably a year.

I did end up getting a 271 out of an 06 truck and tore it down and have the parts to rebuild it. Chain, seals, bearings. I also still have the full outer rockers floating around the garage and need to get the inners and dog legs. That project needs to get off the ground ASAP as I'm about to lose my "extra" car to one of the kiddos, likely in May.

So, the list, in no particular order, of things I'd like to get accomplished this year:

1. Full rocker treatment, inner and outer with dog legs and some additional random holes in the front fenders. I'll also try and learn how to front yard paint during these projects.
2. Transfer case rebuild, swap.
3. Grid heater hookup. I have them, and they did work, but I had to move the solenoid and haven't gone back and wired them up.
4. Drivers seat bottom leather and cushion.
5. Tires and wheels (don't really need them yet, but will).
6. Hood paint.
7. Roof rail removal and paint.
8. Door bottoms all 4 (I think).
9. Rebuild/lube/replace all lock actuators as I have a few sticking right now.
10. Install the OEM power telescope and fold tow mirrors I have with all the proper switches
11. Remove and reinstall the window tint all around. The rear window is peeling and the flapping is getting in the way of me hearing my straight pipe with the windows down.

I think that about does it. It's certainly making my head hurt, so that's enough.

 

You gonna put the front synchronized output from the 273 in the 271 since you'll have to pull the 273 apart anyway to harvest the g56 input shaft?

On a side note, since you're doing the 271 for the purpose of towing the Excursion behind a motorhome, make SURE you have the front hubs unlocked when the Excursion is being towed. With the 271 in the neutral position, yes the input shaft is disconnected , but the mode selector shift collar is still in the 4x4 position , so both the front and rear driveshafts are locked together (via the transfer case chain) when the 271 is in the neutral position.
.
.
.

 

I haven't decided yet on the synchro. For me, having Warn manual hubs, I wouldn't ever shift on the fly because I need to lock/unlock the hubs anyway. And I don't get enough snow here in Cincinnati to warrant running around with my hubs locked on the off chance I'll need 4WD. I have to pull the front seal and crack the case open to get the shaft, but if I put it back together factory, I might be able to get something for it. So, haven't decided yet. I certainly don't want a transfer case sitting around my already full garage.

As to the neutral position, I did notice that when in neutral, the front shaft spins as well, which I'm not super excited about.