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Another good weekend of work, and a few steps closer!
Possibly fixed my wiring snafu and got back what I needed to in order to make everything work correctly. In the end, I didn't need the 3 wires I kept, and needed to add one wire back in. The wire I needed back is the reverse lamp relay control, which is yellow with a light green stripe, connected to pin 3 of the PCM plug. From there, I needed connectors C1220 and C1010 Which are just two ends of the same wire harness), and to remove the plug with all the power wires for the 4WD shift motor. So, I depinned the C1220 and C1010, removing everything from the 4WD shift motor plug and left the reverse lamp relay control wire. Then reconnected that wire to the plug for the PCM using a solder shrink connector and then some marine double wall shrink tube over that. I still have to order a pigtail for the G56 trans reverse connector and wire that in when the time comes. Essentially, that sensor is just an open/close switch. When the trans is placed in reverse, switch closes, power goes to the reverse relay, and the lights come on (fingers crossed it actually works that way). I'll say it now, the wiring portion of this endeavor is going to be the most difficult part of this build.
From there, I needed to figure out how my PS pump will be routed and plumbed in. The Ford hydroboost line fitting does not match the Dodge (go figure), so I'll have to modify the Dodge line to go to the Ford. Then there's this little issue with clearance on my motor mounts. The line that came with the junkyard pump I found on the 24V came out of the back of the pump, made 2 90's and then went to rubber hose. It did not clear the mount I made. So, went to the drill press, punched a hole in the mount big enough for the fitting to go through, and then set about modifying the line to go through it. Now I just have to mate the new line to the Ford line. I'll likely braze it together. All the other fittings and lines for the returns will just have to be modified rubber hose, so not a big deal. I'll be keeping the cooler for the PS, so it just needs the hydroboost return done and the return from the steering gear. All that will get plumbed in once I set the motor back. Originally, I did not intend on painting the trans or transfer case, but I got to looking at them and because I wire wheeled the bolts when I had them apart and because they've been sitting in damp conditions, the bolts were starting to rust and the AL cases were oxidizing. Can't have that, so I used up some of the remaining chassis saver paint on them. Turned out pretty nice, and I dig the shiny black color! Went ahead and painted the starter too. Also, since I had welded next to the motor and had it in and out several hundred times, it needed a fresh coat of paint. The valve covers and some of the accessories were originally intended to be black, but in the interest of not having to use up another roll of tape and several more hours of prep time, I went ahead and shot the whole thing the same color. I have a line on some non painted valve covers with a Ford logo on them, so I'll switch to those once I pick them up. Just have to go see a guy about the parts. So, head is painted, along with the injector return line, injector tops, etc. Only other issue I ran into was that the paint gun ran out of paint just as I was about to shoot the oil pan. I didn't really feel like mixing another batch of paint and waiting the half hour for it to react, so I'll do that after the install because I'm sure I'll scratch it up again. Next weekend is the motor/trans/transfer case install weekend after I get the floor insulation put back into place and the trans mounted on the motor.
I did eyeball the AC compressor and it looks super close, but I think it'll fit. Also will have to fab up a bracket for the alternator and then a bracket for the 4WD shifter. The G56 has several places tapped for what I can only assume is the Dodge shifter, so I'll use those holes and make a plate to mount it all to. From there, I'll modify the shift motor housing for the NP273 and get the linkage hooked up. Once I have the transfer case bolted in, I can also measure for driveshafts and get those going.
On tap for this week is to finish out the P-Pump cleaning and reassembly, get my hole drilled and tapped for the fuel pressure gauge and install the #10 plate and adjustable OFV. Getting closer!!!
Starting to tear into my pump to get it ready. I wanted to have it complete and put together by the weekend, to include timing it, but that's not gonna happen. I should have the timing kit I ordered today but I don't seem to have the new pump shaft nut and washer yet, which is weird. I'll have to check on my orders and may have made it into the pile of parts I have going to take to the X this weekend. Anyway, thought I'd share what the components look like out of the 230HP pump. I pulled the DV holders out and got all the components into parts cleaner in little jars to soak. I need to get them out and make sure they're clean prior to putting them all back in. Also need to rinse the barrels out with carb cleaner to make sure there's no junk in there. Also pulled the banjo bolt out to drill and tap for a fuel pressure gauge and pulled the old OFV out to put in the tork tek OFV. Pulled the AFC off and the fuel stop out. I still need to pull the rear plate off to make sure the AFC arm is adjusted to the new plate, rig a pressure setup for adjustment of the star wheel, and do the free AFC mods. Also have a new rack plug to install. So, still a bit of work to do. Still deciding on the governor springs, but I think I'll go ahead with them. So, once all that's done, I'll pin time it, and then advance using the dial indicator, once I build the pump shaft nut turning tool. Delivery Valve Fuel stop. If you look at all the "normal" dodge ones, you won't find one with this profile. Odd. New #10 fuel stop on the left.
Double check that set of DV's, looks roached. Could be wrong though.
Yeah, they need some serious cleaning. I’m hoping they clean up. If they don’t, I’ll have to find a new pump. Unfortunately, being an 11mm pump, no one wants to touch it for a rebuild.
I haven’t talked to him, but rumor has it even he won’t work over an 11mm pump any more. I’m saving my pennies in case I have to get one. Even if this one works, I’m sure the HP bug will hit me and I’ll want a real pump some day.
Just wondering since I know nothing about Cummins pumps...why does no one want to rebuild them? Hopefully not a loaded question LOL. I am loving following this. Very nice work.
Just wondering since I know nothing about Cummins pumps...why does no one want to rebuild them? Hopefully not a loaded question LOL. I am loving following this. Very nice work.
It's not that nobody wants to rebuild them or balance and flow them...
It's that an 11mm pump has different cam profile for fuel flow, lower fueling rate etc.
The 160, 180, 190, and 215 pumps are all 12mm with the 215 p-pump having a helical cuts on the plungers for changes in fuel delivery timing. The helical cuts are at 180 degrees (2 of them) per plunger. They each had various delivery valves to also help flow rates. Of course fuel flow and it's timing has to work with air flow and boost to be useful.
For the 11mm pump I'm not sure but you may be able to use the 2095 rack plug for additional armature travel but you might want to talk to a good pump builder like Seth to see if there's much of a difference.
You might want to advance the pump timing but again you'd have to check and see what's really worked for those that have done that on an 11mm pump.
Get it running and save some bucks for a decent pump later as long as you can make that pump reliable.
I do have the rock plug, and I’ll be doing all of the AFC mods as well. And as you said, as long as it’s reliable for a while, I’ll run it (provided it works, but it should). Plan was originally to run 16 degrees of timing, but I may move straight to 18 and see what happens.
Got it a bit of work done this weekend....update tomorrow.
Overall another good weekends worth of work on the swap, and its coming together, finally!
Transmission on the motor, starter installed, dipstick installed, vac/PS pump installed, mounts on. Went ahead and put a new shift fork in, along with a new ball prior to mounting the trans. With everything loaded up, it's got a fair amount of weight to it. Hung the block and tackle, used the cradle to support the motor, along with the chain, and then installed the trans with the tractor hanging on a strap. Went together fairly easily (easier than I thought it would). With the engine and trans mated, I had to get a fairly good angle to get it all in there and down. Used a trans jack on a piece of plywood once the trans was in the hole and lifted from the bottom, lowered from the top, and slid it back into place. Motor mounts and trans crossmember went right in without issue. Almost like I planned it that way. Bolted everything down solid. Front suspension lowered about an inch, mking the X sit level. Score again!
From there, I put the transfer case in. Overall not a bad job either with the trans jack. It just did fit under the frame while on the jack and on plywood. I had to shove it in there a bit. Once I got the angles right and got it up there where it's supposed to be, slide together nicely. Problem was the clocking on the bolts. With the jack angles maxed out, I still had to pull down pretty hard on the drivers side to get the bolts started. One at a time, I moved, pushed and pulled it into place and finally got them all in and tight. the connection from G56 to NP273 clocks perfectly under the X and from what I can see the driveshaft should sit at the factory position. From there, I cut my carpet out for the shifters and got going on that. The G56 shift tower installed and my shifter installed on that, the lower half of the shift range was hitting the center console. I believe it was fully in gear, but I can't have it slamming into the cupholders all the time. Took the shift tower off, a little torch heat action, some bending, and it shifts perfectly, clears the console, and clears the dash cupholders (which I really wanted because I use them all the time). With the short shifter length, I should have free reign for cups in the holders and easy access to the radio and other controls on the dash in any gear. I forgot the 4WD shifter at home, so I couldn't install that. I did install the generic boot I have for the trans, but I'm not so sure I like it. It'll suffice until I find one I like.
Moving on to plumbing for the engine. Removed the exhaust manifold because I forgot to put the EGT probe in prior to setting the motor. Drilled and tapped and reinstalled the manifold. Sensor pigtail installed. I think I'm going to have a nice area across the firewall to mount wire looms as necessary with the coolant return no longer there. Also got the PS lines hooked up. Hydroboost feed and return and a second return as well. Old PS tank removed. I ended up cutting the Ford line and mating it with the Dodge line using flare fittings. The only issue I ran into was that though the fitting is tight at the brake booster, the line still moves around a bit. I'm a little concerned that it's not sealing properly. I'll find out on the first start for sure. I went to connect the clutch slave to the trans, only to find out that it's about 12" too short to reach. UGH. I'll have to call valair to see if I can get a longer one. I knew it was too dang easy. AC pump seems to fit perfectly, but I still haven't figured out how I'm gonna run the lines. I essentially need the Ford ends that connect to the vehicle and the Dodge ends that connect to the pump. That, or build a bracket that makes the Ford pump fit and bend the AL lines around the lower radiator hose. Haven't sussed that one out yet. On one hand, it would make wiring much easier with the Ford pump, but I'm a bit concerned with heating and bending those lines. I don't know how much pressure is there. I suppose if the lines crack, I'd be using the Dodge pump anyway.
Now I have a pretty extensive list of crap to get done before next weekend:
Driveshafts rebuilt, rear needs altered for length
Purchase all fluids: brake, oil, Auto trans (PS pump and transfer case), coolant
All filters (NAPA is having their sale soon): air, oil, fuel
Purchase the swapehelper tach
Notch my dampener
Build bracket for alternator (would rather use the Ford)
Finish p-pump cleaning/mods
Clean up my 4WD shifter
Purchase heater hose
Modify and paint my F650 lower dash, install gauges
Paint my pillar pod
Modify my 6.0 engine harness for all sensors
I think that's about it. Not sure I'll get it all done this week, but if I do, and I get it all installed next weekend, the first start won't be far away! Dipstick tube. Drove in n the steel, and then heated thee plastic to shove it on. Nice and tight! Starter all painted and nice. PS Pump with line through the mount. Passenger mount Old and new clutch fork ball New clutch fork and bearing Had to have quite a bit of angle. Snug as a bug!! This chain hook makes for easy positioning when you have as much angle as I had
Transfer case just did fit under Ready to put it up Mostly positioned Shifter hitting in second gear A little bending action Before cutting Cut and ready to flare This hose was removed and the Ford hose shoved on the pump with clamp. This is the final return. Hydroboost return will fit nicely
More pictures....... Main hydroboost line with flare fittings Hydroboost feed to steering gear return. Main line installed Sixth Fifth Fourth Third Second First
Last edited by EXSwap; Sep 9, 2019 at 01:58 PM.
Reason: Fixed picture description
Made it to the driveline shop today and dropped off my driveshafts. As soon as the guy looked at them, he noticed a non factory weld on each of the shafts at the stub for the slip joint. Apparently, someone had already modified the shafts in my X prior to me. It makes a little more sense now why my front shaft seemed to be too long before and now will fit perfectly. Previous to all this work, I had noticed that my slip joint was compressed all the way on the front shaft. Not sure why they would have had the shafts modified, but the welds were clearly not the same as the other ends. They called back a couple hours later and the estimate for a complete rebuild for both shafts, including shortening the rear shaft is $400 for parts and labor. Additions to that would be if the CV on the front shaft needs replaced and if the stub shaft needs replaced on the rear shaft. Driveshafts should be complete inside 3 days.
While I was there dropping of the driveshafts, and since they do hydraulic lines, I asked if they knew anyone who does AC lines. The guy asked what I had going on, so I showed him. He went in the back, came up with a crimp connector for one line, and said if I can get the other crimp online (3/4 to 5/8) that he'd crimp the lines for me. Unfortunately, I can't find the crimp I need. Not sure if it's even a made part. I'll keep looking.
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