Electrical Fire----NOW WHAT?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
It's important to thoroughly charge up a battery with an external charger when they go flat, an alternator will not do this. I mean, maybe if you drive all the way to Montana or something like that. 12.1 isn't very well charged, maybe 25%. A jump start is strictly to get a vehicle off the side of the road and get home or to work or whatever. Put it back on the charger. This saves battery $$ and wear & tear on $$ alternators and regulators. Not trying to beat up on you.... A typical automotive battery charger will spend several hours to get a battery to 90% and several more or overnight to get it all the way.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
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It's important to thoroughly charge up a battery with an external charger when they go flat, an alternator will not do this. I mean, maybe if you drive all the way to Montana or something like that. 12.1 isn't very well charged, maybe 25%. A jump start is strictly to get a vehicle off the side of the road and get home or to work or whatever. Put it back on the charger. This saves battery $$ and wear & tear on $$ alternators and regulators. Not trying to beat up on you.... A typical automotive battery charger will spend several hours to get a battery to 90% and several more or overnight to get it all the way.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
OK. That will work fine.
It may take a while to fully charge, but after charging it should be tested for defects, if it has been drawn down to below 11 volts, or repeatedly drained.
In order for a battery to be considered "good" it must not only accept a charge, it has to also hold it. Only 12.1 volts after a good charging session may spell trouble, keep in mind newly charged batteries have a "surface charge" that must be removed before accurate volt measurement. For example typically see 13.10 volts, but after several hours it will settle into 12.6 or so. A few tenths don't sound like much but on a percentage basis are huge.
Everything has to work together in the charging system. A good test of a charged battery when installed is to monitor the voltage across the posts when cranking over the engine for five or ten seconds while ignition is disabled. A defective battery will choke under the starting load and voltage will drop below 9.6 volts.
It may take a while to fully charge, but after charging it should be tested for defects, if it has been drawn down to below 11 volts, or repeatedly drained.
In order for a battery to be considered "good" it must not only accept a charge, it has to also hold it. Only 12.1 volts after a good charging session may spell trouble, keep in mind newly charged batteries have a "surface charge" that must be removed before accurate volt measurement. For example typically see 13.10 volts, but after several hours it will settle into 12.6 or so. A few tenths don't sound like much but on a percentage basis are huge.
Everything has to work together in the charging system. A good test of a charged battery when installed is to monitor the voltage across the posts when cranking over the engine for five or ten seconds while ignition is disabled. A defective battery will choke under the starting load and voltage will drop below 9.6 volts.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
treadstone00, I was going through the most likely causes for the battery being drained from. Sometimes an ignition switch can fail internally. Then it's possible for the switch to be actually "on" even if the key position is in the "off" position. Then the battery will drain down, usually in a day.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
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From: Angier, NC
When you did the test light draw and it did not light up you are not using an LED test light are you?
I seen that type dose not work right when used for that kind of test.
Heck I did not know they even made LED test lights!
Just thought of something. I know back when you first had this "no charge" issue you went thru all the grounds.
Have you also cleaned the battery + side at the starter relay? That is where the ALT. out put lead goes to but also the power feed to the inside of the truck but should also have a sensing wire to tell the REG if it should charge.
Most of the cars / trucks I have had, had this wire spliced into the factory harness and the joints were not vary good so may want to check that too.
Is the ALT belt tight?
I am pulling for you and knowing what I have seen posted you will find and fix the problem.
Dave ----
I seen that type dose not work right when used for that kind of test.
Heck I did not know they even made LED test lights!
Just thought of something. I know back when you first had this "no charge" issue you went thru all the grounds.
Have you also cleaned the battery + side at the starter relay? That is where the ALT. out put lead goes to but also the power feed to the inside of the truck but should also have a sensing wire to tell the REG if it should charge.
Most of the cars / trucks I have had, had this wire spliced into the factory harness and the joints were not vary good so may want to check that too.
Is the ALT belt tight?
I am pulling for you and knowing what I have seen posted you will find and fix the problem.
Dave ----
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SVTDriver97
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jun 17, 2014 02:49 PM
