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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Electrical Fire----NOW WHAT?

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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 05:59 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by treadstone00


Pictures are worth a thousand words but videos are an encyclopedia.....(wait...does anyone use those anymore???/ LOL!)
What is "N-SI-KLO-PEE-D-YA" you speak of? Please do not use words that are no longer in existents. I tried to look up "encyclopedia" all I got was "No longer exist."
I have a vague memory of an "Encyclopedia" salesman at the door, that was the last time I saw my mom. We had these fat books but no more mom. I think we did ok.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 07:26 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by gangstakr
What is "N-SI-KLO-PEE-D-YA" you speak of? Please do not use words that are no longer in existents. I tried to look up "encyclopedia" all I got was "No longer exist."
I have a vague memory of an "Encyclopedia" salesman at the door, that was the last time I saw my mom. We had these fat books but no more mom. I think we did ok.


What in the world?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 08:54 AM
  #123  
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I've heard of running off with the mail man, but an encyclopedia sales man???
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 09:06 AM
  #124  
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I think we MAY be getting of topic here......
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 09:48 AM
  #125  
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Those plugs indicate carb is running pig rich.

Points have holes in them, nothing unusual there. That's how they are made.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 02:32 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I have never seen points heating up to be a cause. I have seen them make it run ruff if pitted and out of adjustment.


Now a condenser is a different story so changing that may help.


If still using points I would look into a Pertronix Performance Products kit that replaces points so no need to deal with them again.
Just what I would do is all.
Dave ----


See my pictures of the points I took out....
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 03:36 PM
  #127  
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Those old points were toast. 38 is too high which means the points aren't opening enough. You see, Dwell is the amount of time the points are "closed" and the coil is saturating. Measured in degrees of Dizzy rotation. So a high dwell number means the points are staying closed too long. Ford always listed 30 degrees for a V8. GM always said 28-32. So if you adjust to 29,30, or 31 that would be fine. One trick you might try is with a helper.
Have the helper crank the engine while you are adjusting the points. WATCH OUT FOR THE FAN! Use 2 screwdrivers. One for adjusting and the 2nd to tighten the point's screws once you got them adjusted and are holding them there. As the engine is spinning over the dwell meter's needle will bounce back and forth about 15 degrees or so. The middle of the bounce sweep is where the points are adjusted at that moment. So as the helper is spinning the engine over adjust the points so 30 is in the middle of the bounce. Hold the points there, tighten both of the screws, then check the dwell with the engine idling. It will sound a lot better than your video above. Also double check the timing after you get the points adjusted. Adjusting the points changes the timing.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 03:58 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
Those plugs indicate carb is running pig rich.

Points have holes in them, nothing unusual there. That's how they are made.
Is there a technical definition for "Pig Rich"? and since that sounds like its not a good thing, how would I go about making it "non-pig rich"...LOL


Also, the points set I installed was a flat faced contact. Hope that was alright....
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 04:02 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Those old points were toast. 38 is too high which means the points aren't opening enough. You see, Dwell is the amount of time the points are "closed" and the coil is saturating. Measured in degrees of Dizzy rotation. So a high dwell number means the points are staying closed too long. Ford always listed 30 degrees for a V8. GM always said 28-32. So if you adjust to 29,30, or 31 that would be fine. One trick you might try is with a helper.
Have the helper crank the engine while you are adjusting the points. WATCH OUT FOR THE FAN! Use 2 screwdrivers. One for adjusting and the 2nd to tighten the point's screws once you got them adjusted and are holding them there. As the engine is spinning over the dwell meter's needle will bounce back and forth about 15 degrees or so. The middle of the bounce sweep is where the points are adjusted at that moment. So as the helper is spinning the engine over adjust the points so 30 is in the middle of the bounce. Hold the points there, tighten the screws, then check the dwell with the engine idling. It will sound a lot better than your video above.

So, if I'm understanding you correctly, I'm actually setting the Dwell and NOT the Points Gap. I read that somewhere else while trying to figure out what to do about that high Dwell number. From what I've read so far, the Dwell is more important than the Points Gap for performance (well, y'all have seen the truck and she ain't for racing...) but PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong on this. I might be 47, but I am a total Newbie to all of this stuff. I also read ( and successfully tried) to set the timing using a jar of water. That was a pretty neat trick too.
The Wife is out driving the truck right now and the motor will be too hot to touch for a while tonight so I'll get her to help me with your suggestion tomorrow and post the results....


Thanks again!
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 04:17 PM
  #130  
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Adjusting the points adjusts the dwell. The dwell now is showing the points are set too closed. So adjust the points more open so the dwell is about 30.
BTW, did you know to put a little dab of grease under the point's rubbing block?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 04:21 PM
  #131  
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Setting points with a feeler gauge or matchbook cover is just to get the damn thing to start, it's not a final adjustment. The dwell is what counts. Adjust the gap as required to achieve the specified dwell, and disregard the actual gap measurement after that.

New points will tend to wear in the first 50 miles or so. The rubbing block will wear slightly, so re-set the dwell at this time and they will have settled in for the long haul. Be sure to use a small amount of cam grease.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 08:29 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Adjusting the points adjusts the dwell. The dwell now is showing the points are set too closed. So adjust the points more open so the dwell is about 30.
BTW, did you know to put a little dab of grease under the point's rubbing block?
So I set the points at .019 the other day, so I need to go a little bigger on my feeler gauges. I saw that the gap was supposed to be .017-.019 but at the .019 I'm showing that 38 on the Dwell, so I need to go bigger? Like .021? Well, I'll figure that out tomorrow.


Also, I did NOT know about putting grease on the rubbing block. Whoops! I'll do that to tomorrow.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 08:31 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
Setting points with a feeler gauge or matchbook cover is just to get the damn thing to start, it's not a final adjustment. The dwell is what counts. Adjust the gap as required to achieve the specified dwell, and disregard the actual gap measurement after that.

New points will tend to wear in the first 50 miles or so. The rubbing block will wear slightly, so re-set the dwell at this time and they will have settled in for the long haul. Be sure to use a small amount of cam grease.
Roger that.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 08:52 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
Those plugs indicate carb is running pig rich.

Points have holes in them, nothing unusual there. That's how they are made.
Did some reading yesterday and this morning a few videos on the carb running rich. I backed out both adjustment screws (one on each side) 1/2 turn. Don't know what to do now....
 
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 08:56 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
Setting points with a feeler gauge or matchbook cover is just to get the damn thing to start, it's not a final adjustment. The dwell is what counts. Adjust the gap as required to achieve the specified dwell, and disregard the actual gap measurement after that.

New points will tend to wear in the first 50 miles or so. The rubbing block will wear slightly, so re-set the dwell at this time and they will have settled in for the long haul. Be sure to use a small amount of cam grease.


Houston; We have a problem (so it seems). I set the points to 20, Dwell stayed the same. I set the points to 22. Dwell stayed the same. I set the points to 25 AND IT WOULDN"T START!!! LOL
Set the points back to 22, reset the timing. Runs fine, especially after turning the mixture screws out 1/2 turn. Could NOT get the dwell to change. Is it time for a new Distributor?
 
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