Not sure if this is correct or not. But here is a short video of the truck. Kind of putting a face with a name type deal!

 

Found butt connector here....


Not sure how this works, but apparently there is no contact at this location.




So, a couple of things now.


I received the rebuild kit from Summit. Have to admit I'm a little hesitant about doing this. There are a ton of little parts in the kit. Hopefully will have time to take it off and soak it Friday, re-assemble and re-install Saturday or Sunday.


Next, I did the Thermostat yesterday and what a stinkin' mess that was. Not sure if it was the previous owner or the guy he bought it from but HOLY CRAP was that a hack job. Here's a few pics. Apparently he had more Perma-Tex than common sense. Anyway it went back together like a charm.


Today I was able to look at that Horn Circuit again except actually on the truck. Working from the horn backwards I found the Yellow/Green (should be the horn wire) hooked to the Voltage Regulator. I also found the Yellow (that was supposed to be on the Starter Relay along with the Black, closest to the front of the truck) was actually under the Starter Relay acting as a Ground. Once I put all of the wires where they were supposed to go the horn "sorta" sounded, but it acted more like something is wired up backwards. I went into the cab to check the horn wire from the button down to the connector and found there is no continuity between the (should be) Blue/Yellow wire under the button and the Blue/Yellow on the connector. So, here's a few pictures of that too. I gave up trying at this point since there isn't a way to make it work without continuity from the Horn Wire and the rest of the circuit.
So, I guess I need a steering wheel puller and one of those discs to make contact with the rest of the electrical circuit?

 

Do I watched your video. It almost sounds like your initial timing is too slow.

 

I think you can handle rebuilding that carb. Note my signature. If you get stuck you can always watch a You Tube on it. If you can't find a You Tube on a Summit carb look for one on the Holley 4010 or 4011. I am 100% positive Holley made that carb for Summit. The difference between the 4010 and 4011 models was the bore sizes. Flip your carb upside down and measure them. For my own curiosity please post your results of this measurement.
4010: all 4 were 1 11/16".
4011: front 1 3/8 and the rears 2".

 

Be looking for a phone call from an unknown number. When you get it; it's me and my exploded diagram.....LOL!

 

Does anyone know what the part is called that sits below the steering wheel hub? It looks like it should make continuous contact with the horn wire/button.


I can't find a part description or number for it.

 

Not sure exactly what that means. I'm not going to jack with the timing until I have rebuilt the carb. It was running great until the fire.

 

On your horn, the shaft should be grounded with a small metal strap on the rag joint. If that is broken, the horn will be intermittent at best. You can make a short jumper wire across the rag joint. If you touch that spade connector to the column shaft, the horn should honk. Check for power to that wire. Also, the horn could just be bad. The horn relay is by the starter solenoid on the fender well. Does it click?

 

I had to use Wikipedia to find out what a Rag Joint was! LOL! After I get the carb off later today (for the rebuild) I'll take a look down there and see what I can see at the rag joint. As far as the relay goes I don't know if it clicks or not. I don't have a continuous wire from the horn button to the relay. I'll try to test the relay by using jumper wires and see what happens. It looks like if I take the Yellow at the Starter Relay and go to the pin on the relay and then Ground out the Blue/Yellow, the horn should work....Does that sound right?

 

You may want to examine the vacuum advance. Fire may have damaged it.

 

That is a horn contact plate. It is part of what the aftermarket steering wheel companies used to call a "horn kit" in the past. I dunno if they still do. It used to be the aftermarket steering wheels like what you have came all by themselves. Then the person had to buy a horn kit. The horn kit came with that horn contact plate, the steering wheel mount to the shaft, the horn button you push to honk, and a spring.

 

Sounds like it just needs a bit more CHOKE action to get the RPMS up to keep it running initially. It sounds fine once you got it to stay running.

 

Great thread.

 

Use a jumper wire directly from battery positive to the wire connection on the horn itself. It should honk. If it doesn't, the horn is bad, or not grounded. Just for grins, use a test light, with a good ground and check that wire on the column. It's possible, that is the ground wire, and the hot side is missing.

 

did the rebuild yesterday. I was pretty excited that it did start right up! After my wife came down and asked how it was going I told her "it's running"...she said "it was running BEFORE you took it apart!" LOL! It still have the hesitation/backfire when you stab the gas pedal. So it's something else. Also, I'm struggling to get the rear float level set. The front is spot on at half a glass.