That right there.....that's one I need to see. I tried to watch the needle while the wife cranked the engine over, but I just could see where/how I could get that 30. I don't know now and I didn't know then. I'm a visual learner and man does it show!. I did reply to a couple of other guys tonight so we shall see what's next. Also, in case you didn't see the post up there I couldn't get the Dwell to come down no matter the gap in the points. 19-25 and no change in the Dwell. Ideas? Cuz I'm out of them....LOL

 

COULD NOT SEE.....

 

That's impossible. Maybe your Dwell Meter is defective?
If the points gap changes the dwell HAS to change. If the points are more Open that means they are Closed less time during Dizzy rotation. Notice on the pic below the point's rubbing block is at the very crest of the Dizzy's cam lobe. That is where the rubbing block has to be when you adjust the points. You can bump the starter to get it close then use the big bolt in the middle of the vibration damper to move the crankshaft a tiny bit at a time. The crank moves the timing chain. Which moves the camshaft. Which moves the Dizzy. So you can dial in EXACTLY the rotation of the Dizzy and it's cam lobes via that big bolt.



Now there is one other thing. Maybe after you adjust the points they close back up while you are tightening the screws. Notice in the pic below both the screw holes in the points are slotted. The hole right by the points I'll call the Adjustment end. And the other side the Pivot end. The screw at the pivot end should be kinda tight when you are adjusting points. JUST loose enough where you can adjust them. But tight enough where they won't move as you tighten the screws. Also with your screwdriver, hold the points in adjustment as you tighten the screws with a 2nd screwdriver.

 

might want to check the screw length , there's different ones if you put to long of a screw in the wrong location it will bottom out and cause the advance not to work or gap to shut . I learned this on my first car .

 

AWWWW MAN!!!! YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING ME!!!


I jacked with those points forever setting them ON THE LOBE peak....


Well, I guess that's the problem huh?


I was using the big nut/bolt on the main pulley to get it right at the top. I'll get that straightened out today. Probably shouldn't run it that way....


So much for impossible. It must be impossible to have the dwell not change when you're on the flat spot, but when you're on the Peak of the Lobe, it is possible because it's completely WRONG!


So, I'll set the points correctly this time and reset the timing too and wee where we're at.


Thank JEFFFAFA......

 

HEAR YE! HEAR YE! DO NOT SET YOUR POINTS GAP ON THE PEAK......

 

If the gap is set on the flat, they will never close. Think about it.

 

When I said "crest" I meant the same thing as the "peak". Same, same. The points are set on the crest/peak of the Dizzy's cam lope.


crest. the highest part of a hill or mountain range; summit. the point of highest flood, as of a river. a tuft or other natural growth on the top of the head of an animal, as the comb of a rooster

 

So, now I feel like a complete moron since it seems I can't even learn FROM PICTURES!!


Ok. so the points must be moving after I set them.....on the crest....not on the flat....


I'll reset them again and see what happens.

 

One factor that causes frustration with modern day point-setters is they are oftentimes working on something just dragged out of the weeds or was otherwise rode hard and put away wet. The distributor breaker point ignition system is completely mechanical, any wear in the distributor shaft and bushings will cause trouble in terms of side play or wobble, end play. Also the breaker plate has to move freely and smoothly, vacuum advance diaphragm not dry rotted and leaking. A high mileage engine may not need an overhaul but should probably get a fresh distributor whether running points or pertronix.

 

At this point I think petronix might be a better route .
Pertronix Performance Products

 

Great. So now I have a new problem.


I had to have the truck towed again. Wife (of course) was driving it, started to run rough, really rough she said. It quit and wouldn't start again. She left it alongside the road so I went after work to look at it. I jacked around with it for an hour and it will start but idle REALLY rough and then stall out. It is getting plenty of gas. I adjusted the mixture screws all the way in and backed them out 1-1/2 turns. I inspected the points I just installed and they are not scorched. I tried to check the timing but it won't run long enough for me to see what it is reading.
I'm close to junking this truck.


How would I take everything back to the start and begin fresh with getting it running? I'm going to put the old burned up carb back on it tomorrow. It ran fine with it, but the accelerator pump cam was melted so it had that stumble off idle. At least this will tell me if its carb related or something else.


Can someone please give me a link to how to set everything up initially? Where to point the distributor, timing it for the first time....jeez. this just sucks.


help me guys. I'm broken.

 

I looked at the link and have no idea what i'd even need. There's way too many products on there. thanks for the helpful info.

 

Pertronix part number 1281 I believe and a flame thrower coil. I personally run 8mm wires and E3 spark plugs. Start with the pertronix first. I think most of your headache will go away.

 

x3 on the pertronix. Put it in the stock dizzy and now it's an afterthought.