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Could either be the aftermarket (read, made in China) voltage regulator,a rebuilt alternator that was built cheap (like the armature not cleaned up good where the brushes ride), engine/alternator not grounded quite enough. If you Rev it do your numbers go up?
Don't know. Didn't think to try that. I'll check it again in the morning and post my results.
Could either be the aftermarket (read, made in China) voltage regulator,a rebuilt alternator that was built cheap (like the armature not cleaned up good where the brushes ride), engine/alternator not grounded quite enough. If you Rev it do your numbers go up?
I checked the Voltage today after the truck sat all night and up to noon today. Dead Cold. It was 12.45 Volts at the battery. When I started the truck it went up to 14.12. FOURTEEN point ONE TWO~~~~ Yesssss!. Great news! I let it idle for a few minutes and after 2-3 minutes the Voltage went DOWN to 14.01 Volts. 4 minutes later 13.96, 5 minutes later 13.89 and after 10 minutes idling it was 13.76 Volts at the battery.
The Voltage DID NOT go up when I had it running with the Tachometer showing 1500 on the constant rev. It did however stop going down.......
My guess is you don't have a good enough ground. Either the alternator or regulator are heating up because of it and putting out less and less to the battery. You should have a GOOD sized ground cable going from the engine block to the firewall. Take that off and clean both connections good. Especially the engine block side. Oil from a leaky valve cover gasket on that connection isn't good. Not only wipe the oil away but also spray some brakleen, carb spray, or whatever on there to get all oil residue off. Same thing with the battery to block ground cable connections.
Now if the grounds repair doesn't help I'd bypass the voltage regulator and see what numbers you get. This will tell the alternator to put out it's fullest charge so be quick. If the alternator is good you can overcharge the battery if you aren't quick about it. It doesn't have to be seconds. Just not too many minutes.
My guess is you don't have a good enough ground. Either the alternator or regulator are heating up because of it and putting out less and less to the battery. You should have a GOOD sized ground cable going from the engine block to the firewall. Take that off and clean both connections good. Especially the engine block side. Oil from a leaky valve cover gasket on that connection isn't good. Not only wipe the oil away but also spray some brakleen, carb spray, or whatever on there to get all oil residue off. Same thing with the battery to block ground cable connections.
Now if the grounds repair doesn't help I'd bypass the voltage regulator and see what numbers you get. This will tell the alternator to put out it's fullest charge so be quick. If the alternator is good you can overcharge the battery if you aren't quick about it. It doesn't have to be seconds. Just not too many minutes.
life sure could have been easier if I had that plug connector.!!!! LOL! Someone took it out at some point. I'll post a pic of what I have later on. I'm out digging post holes! I'll check those grounds and lean them up. Re-test and post results!
Well, it's been a busy week or so and I haven't had any time to even look at the truck. I hate that I haven't gotten this squared away yet. Starting tomorrow, we're going to be on vacation out of town for a week and I won't be able to do anything next week either. I get back on the 26th and will probably have some down time waiting for work to ramp back up (I'm a VA Appraiser in Atlanta) so I'll have time over the weekend if nothing else pressing happens while we are gone (i.e. Chickens, Dogs, House etc....) so I'll try to get this process working again. Thanks for all y'alls help with this project! ITS JUST GETTING STARTED LOL!!! Seriously! LOL! Talk soon fellas! (I apologize if I might have missed your specific gender identity there....) SMH.
I can't believe its been since May that I have been updating the truck! I haven't had a stitch of time to even think about it. We have been driving it and it hasn't died like it had in the past, so we are making progress I guess.
Going back to JeffFAFA and the regulator plug.....someone cut it out of the truck at some point and all I have is a bunch of wires.....LOL! While replacing the Alternator I was able to figure out which wires went to the correct location and so that side of things is alright.
I am experiencing an intermittent "stall", especially after the truck has been driven hard, like on the highway, or has been sitting idling for a long period of time. Seems to me it has more to do with HEAT than anything, but it will start to run really rough and hitting the gas doesn't do a thing, zero power in the motor, just bogs down and dies. It will start right back up most times, sometimes I need to crank it a few seconds, but it will start up and drive fine. Just like nothing ever happened. I can't force it to reproduce the same symptoms, so I have no idea what it is.
Anyway, I'm back to cleaning all of the grounds on the motor today and doing the points and condenser. I watched a few videos on it (LOL!) so I'm willing to give it a shot. Not sure if the points/condenser would be heating up and causing a problem or not, but it's a cheap fix.
I have never seen points heating up to be a cause. I have seen them make it run ruff if pitted and out of adjustment.
Now a condenser is a different story so changing that may help.
If still using points I would look into a Pertronix Performance Products kit that replaces points so no need to deal with them again.
Just what I would do is all.
Dave ----
Fore reference, I laid these out on the cardboard. This way you can see which plug is which and from which location.
So after a great morning on Black Thunder (that's what my son calls her....) I did the Points/Condenser and Plugs. The truck runs way better than is has since the fire. Found a few things that were contributing factors and also wanted to see about how the plugs looked when I took them out. Here they are from the drivers side, starting at the front of the motor heading back to the firewall and then passenger side, same thing.
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