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Eric, is the factory trailer harness not on the Excursion? If there is, there is a plug and play 7 way connection on the driver's side frame in the rear. I just pulled out the birds nest of redneck engineering on my truck, bought the plug, and snapped it in. Nice job either way.
Eric, is the factory trailer harness not on the Excursion? If there is, there is a plug and play 7 way connection on the driver's side frame in the rear. I just pulled out the birds nest of redneck engineering on my truck, bought the plug, and snapped it in. Nice job either way.
Hi Byron. This is the factory trailer harness and plug location. Something was not connecting consistently in the original socket so I replaced it. When replacing it (ok, actually the two-plug socket) I broke the locking tab off of the factory plug from the truck to the socket, thus needing the new plug and pigtail.
Hi Byron. This is the factory trailer harness and plug location. Something was not connecting consistently in the original socket so I replaced it. When replacing it (ok, actually the two-plug socket) I broke the locking tab off of the factory plug from the truck to the socket, thus needing the new plug and pigtail.
Last of my “planned” truck projects for a bit. I changed the rubber brake peddle cover. I am headed up to the North GA get together next week. I’m sure I’ll have all kinds of projects to do then...
The original Ford part was quite worn and slippery. The bottom right corner had a hole all the way through.
I tried to find a Motorcraft part but couldn’t. I ended up using Dorman. Almost as easy as the cup holder upgrade.
Last of my “planned” truck projects for a bit. I changed the rubber brake peddle cover. I am headed up to the North GA get together next week. I’m sure I’ll have all kinds of projects to do then...
The original Ford part was quite worn and slippery. The bottom right corner had a hole all the way through.
I tried to find a Motorcraft part but couldn’t. I ended up using Dorman. Almost as easy as the cup holder upgrade.
No way, the brake pedal resto-mod is harder than the cup holder.
FORD has been using the same pedal since the mid 1960's.
Its official: I've gone over to the dark side. PMS is real.
After much internal conflict and a couple of weak towing experiences I decided to install a Hydra tuner in my Ex. I really want this vehicle to last the rest of my life so adding a HP booster probably isn't the best way to accomplish that. Last weekend I attended a N-GA FTE 7.3 get together up at @SkySkiJason 's place. He was like the devil on one shoulder whispering in my ear. @Sous was the angel whispering in the other. Well you see who won that...
In every YouTube video I've watched, this kick-panel was not pictured. The PCM is behind that panel. Remove three plastic screw-like fasteners and it comes off around the brake pedal.
ZYS5 was my PCM "box" code.
Gotta get the silicon off the contacts on the PCM for the chip to make a good connection. A friend suggested using a toothpick and alcohol to clean the contacts. After breaking a few toothpicks I "sharpened" a tongue depressor. It worked perfectly. Perfect width to get the silicon between the contacts, and strong enough to get a good scraping. I did also use the supplied wire brush and 3M abrasive pad, but very lightly.
Squeaky clean!
I wanted to mount the controller on the dash bezel next to the shifter, but this area isn't flat like on F250's and F350's. Next option was next to the sliding cover lighter socket, but the included wire ribbon cable wasn't long enough. On to plan C. Never mind the shoes. Nothing to see here!
After inputting my box code, the Hydraflash software gave me a hex code of VNAA8Y5, but suggested using the tunes for VNAAAY3. Those are the ones I installed. In all the ~87 YouTube videos I watched on installing the Hydra on a 7.3, only one from 1023 Tuning mentioned anything about installing tunes for a PATS equipped vehicle (like the Excursion). There is a block in the bottom right of the Hydraflash window that you need to click for PATS enabled tunes. Glad I saw that video before I went out there and cursed a no-start situation!
Plan C: install the controller on the removable fuse panel cover. Cut a hole and use the Riffraff flush mount bezel. Everything is currently just press fit. If that doesn't seem to work out I'll use silicon caulk on the back side of the bezel and double-sided tape between the bezel and the controller. If I need to get the fuse panel cover all the way out of the way, I can just unplug the wire ribbon from the controller.
I put the wire ribbon and the USB cable in some wire loom to protect it some and tucked it up well under the kick-panel insulation. Where it goes into the PCM is right next to the hood release and parking brake and I don't want anything to get pinched.
I was thinking I would just have to change tunes by memory and feel, but I can actually still read the numbers from the driving position!
First impressions: peppy. My test hill I drive when I'm trying to see how the Ex is performing: before the chip: hit 18psi boost, 980 CHT, and let off the throttle at about 60mph. After the chip in 65Hp Daily Driver showed 26 psi boost, 1000 CHT, and I had to let off the throttle at 70, while still madly accelerating. Hopefully I can get over the "fun" factor before the price of diesel goes back up. Stock tunes I installed are: 1000 High Idle, Whisper Mode, 65Hp Fuel Sipper, 40, 65, and 80 Hp Daily Driver, and 25, 40, 65, and 80 Hp Towing. 80Hp Daily Driver did smoke a bit, which is not my thing.
For the regular tunes the shifting seems ok. None of the hard shifting I’ve heard about. I haven’t towed with it yet so that’s still an unknown. I’ll find out in a couple weeks.
I did an ok job cleaning the outside, and even sprayed off the floor mats. Forgot the peddles.
Such a clean and informative thread. Build is sweet as well, crisp and sleek, effective. Diggin' it. Thanks for all the experience, knowledge, and nostalgia. Much appreciated.
Such a clean and informative thread. Build is sweet as well, crisp and sleek, effective. Diggin' it. Thanks for all the experience, knowledge, and nostalgia. Much appreciated.
Thanks. It’s been a labor of love. I’ve never put this kind of attention to a vehicle before.
For the regular tunes the shifting seems ok. None of the hard shifting I’ve heard about. I haven’t towed with it yet so that’s still an unknown. I’ll find out in a couple weeks.
I did an ok job cleaning the outside, and even sprayed off the floor mats. Forgot the peddles.
thats good, exhaust staying stock?
i like the way our 2001 shifts in 65 daily, love the pedal everything. Not a fan of how my 2003 shifts in any of the tunes. Id prefer to keep the stock tcm tune with 40 dd for my 03
Exhaust is staying stock unless I have EGT issues. I'm 90% stock anyway. The only real upgrade I did was a Riffraff 4+4 turbo wheel. I did delete the IAH and EBPV pedestal along with adding the high flow outlet. Highest EGT I've ever seen is 1100 towing up the hills outside Chattanooga. Time will tell.
The muffler does not affect performance or EGT as much as some people give it credit for.
I kept my X exhaust stock for a looooong time and instantly missed how quiet it was after going 4” MBRP with muffler. EGT’s dropped 100-150* at the high end - but they were never a problem before. Even towing 12.5k lbs.
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