Yes, it may not seal properly, and might rattle. I redid a Chrysler mode door for my konvertible. I believe the foam I used came from a craft shop, it was probably 3/16" thick and I glued it on with upholstery cement. Both sides were done, and I think I did the blend door too and may have done the defrost/floor also.

This is the unit I am installing in the "new" konvertible. it is from a 1992 Imperial and is all electronic, no vacuum.


You can see the fresh foam on the blend door.

 

Bill - Thanks! Janey is headed to Owasso today and will stop in Hobby Lobby to see what they have.

 

Gary, I seem to recall someone using generic weather sealing [~3/8 X 1/16"?] applied only to the contact surfaces.

 

Well, I do have several feet of that, come to think of it. I think it is about 1/8" thick, so would be almost perfect. I'll go look. Thanks!!

 

Here's how I did it. Start here and go through Post #38.

 

Thanks! Oddly enough, you have a metal door and mine is all plastic, and the hinge is part of it. I suppose I could make a metal one, but the plastic will suffice.

And, I looked at a piano hinge, knowing you'd used one, and came to the conclusion that two smaller hinges would be easier in order to clear the arm coming off the door. I'll show how I'm doing it in a bit as it appears to be workable.

 

Man, it is a struggle to replace the hinge while the ductwork is on the truck. Sorta like hanging a door from the room it opens away from. I think I'm close, but the only way I can see to do it is to put the hinges on the housing, and then screw the door to the hinge. But to do that I needed nuts on the back of the hinge, so the JB Weld to hold them on is curing. We will find out if that works in a day or two.

Meanwhile I finished the underhood wiring. I installed the new auxiliary battery relay and the new fuel pump relay. But, in case someone is going to follow in my footsteps in the future, I need to point out that the Cole-Hersee relay's coil is not grounded. There are two terminals for the coil, and one must be grounded. And, I should point out that the relay comes in with a decided CLUNK, and since it is screwed to the firewall, you will know when it comes in as you turn the key to Run. I may mount it on grommets.

Anyway, here's a pic of the completed wiring. Note that there's a piece of angle right above the new relay. That was apparently to keep rain off of it, but it didn't seem to work too well as the old relay was very rusty. Also, the original holes placed the relay at an angle like that, so I put it back where the factory wanted it.






However, I didn't like the piece of angle as a seal, so I added a piece of garage door weatherstripping, as shown in the pic.




And, with that the underhood wiring is complete - for now. Later I'll do the 3G upgrade, add headlight relays, and add the auxiliary battery. But that will have to wait for another day/week/month.

Now, before I get Big Blue back on the road I have to finish the hinge install on the panel door, re-install the trailer hitch, install the new 7-pin trailer connector, paint the gauges, install the gauges and re-assemble the dash. Unless another alligator bites me.

 

Gary, do you think pop-rivets would work for that door, or would they interfere with it?

 

Good question. They wouldn't interfere as much as screws since the heads are thinner. However, there are only two of the four holes on the door that could be gotten to with my pop-rivet gun as the top and bottom ones are too high/low to get it to.

Perhaps I could use studs on the top and bottom ones and then pop-rivet the middle ones. The studs would just be there to align things, and the rivets would pull them together. So, if the approach to use the screws and epoxied nuts doesn't work I will look into the river approach. Thanks.

 

For a truck that has two shades of blue on the exterior, and blue interior, there sure is a lot of red under the hood.

And this is also on an engine that if anything, should be painted Ford Blue. (I know Ford Gray is stock for these years, but Ford Blue looks way cooler.)

I wonder what the reasoning was behind all that red?

 

I don't know what the plan was for the red on the engine. It isn't my favorite part of the truck, but I don't dislike it enough to pull the parts and paint or powder coat them. However, any time one of those parts comes off it'll go back colored differently.

 

You mean like this:

 

Bill! You need to protest things a bit better when you paint. Look at all that overspray on your Ford tractor.

 

That is a tractor? I thought that was the exhaust manifold shroud for preheating carburetor air!

 

It is a Ford YT-16H, 1991 model by serial number. I had used some of the extra paint on the hood.