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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Big Blue

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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 09:39 AM
  #571  
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Does Big Blue only have a single tank? I though the 460s all got dual tanks.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 09:52 AM
  #572  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Does Big Blue only have a single tank? I though the 460s all got dual tanks.
If not they sure can use them!


I had a 76 E350 with 460/C6 used to pull a 2 car/Jeep trailer to races.
The van did not come with a 2nd tank but we added one using stock parts. It helped us to pass a few stations before needing gas again.
Also worked good driving to Cali and back pulling a 1 car trailer.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 10:58 AM
  #573  
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Gary, I found something that might be of use to you. It has a Ford publication number (at least I think that is what it is) of 365-198S-86, the whole 18 pages of wiring diagrams for Darth (no good to me any more), do you think it might help?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 11:59 AM
  #574  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Does Big Blue only have a single tank? I though the 460s all got dual tanks.
That diagram is probably for C&C trucks (note the on rail booster pump for longer wheelbase)
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 12:18 PM
  #575  
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Big Blue has dual tanks, but I grabbed the simpler single-tank diagram for simplicity.

As for the schematics, I collect documentation, so would love to have it.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 12:31 PM
  #576  
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Ok, it will probably be Tuesday before I can mail it, hopefully I can stuff it in a flat rate envelope.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 04:11 PM
  #577  
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#3 of Dollars Trilogy

Bill - I'm in absolutely no hurry as I don't have an immediate use for them. And, here's a view of the tank:




As for #3 of the Dollars Trilogy, in reverse order:

The Bad: Brandon stopped by today to get his trailer and I asked him what he thought of the exhaust note on Big Blue. And, he came to the same conclusion I'd already come to - there's probably a burned valve on the passenger's side and maybe one on the driver's side. So, a leak-down test is in order. And, if that proves the problem, and if I have to pull the intake to re-seal it at the back, I'll pull the heads.

The Ugly:








The Good: Turns out that by disconnecting the hacked-on wiring from the inertia switch and bypassing the inertia switch and the oil pressure switch the fuel pump runs. So, my plans to fix the wiring while waiting on the red/yellow wire to come in are good. In other words, I just have to fix the abominations shown above and I'll be ready to run the wire when it comes in.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 04:23 PM
  #578  
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Gary, Information only. If you have to remove fuel pump/sending unit you can do it with out lowering tank. I have done many times. With your lift probably two minutes. Rear tank you have to remove tank.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 05:09 PM
  #579  
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Just for the information, while you are playing with the fuel pump stuff, run a pressure test on both pumps. Spec on factory electric is 4.3 psi. I will almost be willing to bet they put 1987-89 tanks and EFI primary pumps in. I can't find a pressure for the EFI primary pumps, I know they are similar to TBI pumps which are somewhere around 15-17 psi. BTW, I see the problem with the inertia switch "Made in England" probably a Lucas subsidiary.



Original rear tank and plumbing.



Original front tank and plumbing.



1990 front tank with modified 1986 pump and sender hanger, extra lines are the EFI high pressure stuff.<br/>
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 05:11 PM
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Gary,
In your second pic, it looks like the sender wire could use a little tlc as well.

(I sometimes wish they would ban those cheesy crimp connectors, but then I'd expect to see even more household wire nuts on these trucks )
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 05:20 PM
  #581  
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Jim, red is front pump power, orange is ground. Rear tank pump power is brown/white, orange is still ground. Dark blue/yellow is front sender, black is ground, rear, yellow/light blue is sender, black is ground. All for grounds tie together and go through the plug to G701 which is the one inside the cab on 1986 models.

He has the cure for all that, he just has to shorten the section between the transmission cross member and front tank 35", it is the original harness from Darth.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 05:23 PM
  #582  
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Gary... the tank pics look all too familiar... just did the same thing myself.

You feeling the urge to get the tanks de-rusted (possibly inside) and coated while you've got them this far exposed?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 06:15 PM
  #583  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Just for the information, while you are playing with the fuel pump stuff, run a pressure test on both pumps. Spec on factory electric is 4.3 psi. I will almost be willing to bet they put 1987-89 tanks and EFI primary pumps in. I can't find a pressure for the EFI primary pumps, I know they are similar to TBI pumps which are somewhere around 15-17 psi. BTW, I see the problem with the inertia switch "Made in England" probably a Lucas subsidiary.
Lucas Prince of darkness!
I did see that also and what I thought above.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 08:30 PM
  #584  
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Joseph Lucas, father of the intermittent wiper. Also the three functions of Lucas lighting, Dim, Flicker and Off. The last one, guy sitting bolt upright in a hospital bed with a look of utter horror on his face, caption reads "What do you mean a Lucas Pacemaker?" However, you know why the English drink warm beer? all their refrigerators are made by Lucas.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 09:36 PM
  #585  
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Wow! Watch a movie and the thread goes viral!

I thought you guys would like the pic of the "Made in England" inertia switch. Part of the reason I posted it. And Bill exceeded my expectations.

I think the tank is fairly new, so while I may have to drop it to change out the sender, I don't think it needs coated. As was pointed out, dropping it with the lift is easy - just lower the truck down until the tank sits on the roll-around toolbox, disconnect the tank, and raise the truck.

And, it may well have a serious pump in it. When running a full 12 volts it has enough volume to easily hold 5.5 psi at the regulator after the vapor separator. In fact, I jumpered the inertia switch with my test light made from an 1156 bulb and that ran the pump well enough to hold 1.5 psi after the vapor separator. Maybe I'll crank it up tomorrow and see what it'll do.

As for the wiring, Jim is right that things need attention. But, Bill sent me a replacement harness, so I'll put that in and not have to worry about splicing things. Thanks again, Bill!
 
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