When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you not using any chemicals during the flush I would not worry about the temp.
Also if you have a good delta (I know not getting up to temp tosses it all out) I
would not use any chemicals to flush with. You just need to run a load of water
through it. If you use hose water then you can finish up with 30 gallons of distilled
water. AND don't skip the step so many do and not remove the block drains. They
must come out to kick the stuff done in the block out.
One trick I do is after each flush cycle I remove the host leading to the heater core and
blow it out with air.
For the first and second flush I also remove the lower radiator hose and the top one
and just let it gush out the lower one. I thin take the hose and run water up through
the radiator so that any crud that is on the top of the cooling lines is forces out. The
reason I do that step is there have been a few people that have repeat oil cooler plugging.
The issue turned out to be holding a lot of crud up on top. only way to remove it is to
back flush or a new radiator. Back flushing costs less.
I more or less do what SrMasterTech did without the chemicals.
See, the problem here is that I don't have the luxury of a location where I can dump that much coolant without catching every single drop. I live in a cul de sac where everything would drain straight to all my neighbors' driveways... On the last flush I lost some coolant when I pulled my lower radiator hose and about had a heart attack lol
Once the 2nd flushing is done there is not a lot left of the coolant.
But the easy way to be rid of it is to catch and evaporate it in an old
kettle and a propane burner. Just find someone that does not want to
do a fried turkey ever again.
Once the 2nd flushing is done there is not a lot left of the coolant.
But the easy way to be rid of it is to catch and evaporate it in an old
kettle and a propane burner. Just find someone that does not want to
do a fried turkey ever again.
I wonder if there's a shop around that would just let me throw some cash at them to be allowed to pull in, dump, refill and take off LOL.
Kind County has a waste mobile collection site, I imagine Snohomish should too.
Check out Super Duty Service/ Anthony Youngblood on YouTube, he just did a fish procedure with out removing the hoses.
Mclendon and Hardware stores sell large plastic pans that can hold quite a bit of you need to contain everything. I used five gallon buckets for my flush though.
Kind County has a waste mobile collection site, I imagine Snohomish should too.
Check out Super Duty Service/ Anthony Youngblood on YouTube, he just did a fish procedure with out removing the hoses.
Mclendon and Hardware stores sell large plastic pans that can hold quite a bit of you need to contain everything. I used five gallon buckets for my flush though.
I can dispose at debuque transfer station and an oreillys up here, I'm just worried about not catching everything and having some roll into the street and pissing of my great neighbors. I could pull into the garage and make a mess and corral with towels maybe... I'll figure something out.
Sounds like a candidate for Fumoto valves. They make one that threads into the block.
I'll have to check those out. That would be pretty neat. I already McGyver'd up a hose setup I use on the petcock to route coolant straight into a big bucket. Block plugs with pet***** would be pretty awesome.
For containment purposes I would use something like pictured below. Cheap pan for the hardware store.
Simple green on the driveway and a hose afterwards.
For containment purposes I would use something like pictured below. Cheap pan for the hardware store.
Simple green on the driveway and a hose afterwards.
I'll check that out tomorrow. I went ahead and drained the green tonight and through an oreillys motorcraft tstat/housing combo in the ex, than ran flush and distilled water for a half hour drive. I just drained from the petcock tonight, but I'll try to pull the block plugs tomorrow since the coolant leftover should be pretty diluted I'd imagine.
Fun story - check out the tstat I pulled. Dated 11/02... no wonder I was seeing temps in the 170s, the tstat has 216,000 miles on it, lol!! Ran at 188-192 for my test drive tonight with the flush and the heaters blow nice and hot. Everything I took apart appeared to be in good shape, so I'm feeling pretty good about this rig. Rotella ELC going in after the flushes (the red one is what Tractor Supply had). It was really fun to rip into the 6.0, I told my friends I was earning my amuetur noob diesel tech license =P
I also swapped the chrome 05-07 grille over to the green Ex. Looks much better than I thought it would, which is a pleasant surprise.
also saw a sweet platinum edition dually SD at home depot.
Finished the coolant flush at about 2am last night (I tend to be a night owl instead of an early riser) and now I get to dig further into why it long cranks every so often when starting, especially when cold. Gauges all look fine (FICM, IPR, IPC, etc.), so I grabbed two new Interstate batteries on the way home from work last night. Pulled the NAPAs out and turns out they're only about 18 months old and showing 12.4V on the meter, so serves me right for grabbing batteries before checking the meter.. Oh well, I like Interstate better. It did start this morning on the Interstates, so that's an improvement. I'll have to drive it a few times to see if it stats fine from now on or if I need to keep digging for the problem. Looking into a 6.4 starter is the next move I can think of. Other than that the Ex is running great. 192 temps max on the way to work, delta never more than 3F under load, 5F when the coolant cools faster than the oil at a light or idle. Filters and new rad cap coming in the next few days.
That 6.4 starter will change the starting world.
I have not installed the one I have sitting in the
new truck yet. Too many projects waiting on me.
I did make some more time for myself and went and
hired someone to clean up the yard instead of doing it myself.
Sometimes a little money spent is worth the time you get back, eh?
I think I'm at the point now where the cold(er) starts with the diesel rig are nerve racking just because I'm used to my V10 firing right up. I've checked every value I know to check and everything points to the Ex being fine unless I've just got a dirty connector or, I dunno, injector problems preventing an easy clean start. I don't like grinding on the starter for more than a second or two or else I feel I'm being mean to the Ex lol.
I'm sure I'll learn a bunch more helpful info when Ranaway looks at it the first week of December.
You could add some ground wires like Toomanytoys posted in the 6.0 side. FICMrepair also sells a wiring set to help the batteries and charging system. A DMM is a good place to start when checking batteries, but they should also be load tested for the cranking amps.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
