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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 10:33 AM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
The brake booster is a large hose(3/8) so it usually has it's own special spot. Try to keep the PCV as close to the carb as you can, either the carb has another large 3/8 port for it, or you can use the spacer. The PCV gases can foul your idle up unless it's mixed evenly to all the cylinders. The brake booster doesn't matter as much, as long as you have a large enough port and it has manifold(all the time) vacuum.
Thank you, glad you were able to decipher what I was asking through all the garble.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 10:34 AM
  #212  
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Good! I feel better.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 03:27 PM
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Gary, I emailed you about a question but other than the ground question I think I have figured it out but I do have another for someone. What would be the best way to hook up my distributor, well coil actually. I would like to be able to use existing wiring and connectors if possible to keep the look of the wiring as stock as possible. I am sure someone has done something with this already just hoping for ideas.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 09:21 PM
  #214  
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David - Please remind me of what you had and now have. It was originally EFI and you've gone to a carb? If so, then you are going from the system shown on Page 27, 28, or 29 to the one shown on Page 26 here: Start & Ignition - ???Gary's Garagemahal. If you look closely, both types use the same basic wiring on the truck.

Beyond that, I'm not sure what you are asking.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 10:53 PM
  #215  
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ok, yes changing from efi to carb. If you got the email I sent you it explained it better but I am trying to use the existing wiring for the fuel cut off relay to the inertia switch as discussed before but I haven't been able to get the fuel pump to run so I am not sure if I have everything hooked up correctly. Yellow is going to the starter solenoid and that's it as of now. Not sure what the red and the tan wires that went to the computer were for. I have tried putting power to the red and grounding the tan/blue one as you had suggested and nothing. I even went and bought another relay just to make sure. So any suggestions would be helpful or maybe I will just try and bypass all of that and just send power to the pump itself.
 

Last edited by maverick600; Aug 14, 2016 at 03:56 PM. Reason: too add comment
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 09:47 PM
  #216  
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David - I did get the email. But I cannot find it! It isn't even in the trash, so I don't know what happened. Please resend it?

Having said that, by "yellow is going to the starter solenoid" do you mean you have a yellow wire from the front big lug of the solenoid? If so, then it is probably the one on Page 26 here: Start & Ignition - ???Gary's Garagemahal. Is that what you have?
 
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 09:54 PM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
David - I did get the email. But I cannot find it! It isn't even in the trash, so I don't know what happened. Please resend it?

Having said that, by "yellow is going to the starter solenoid" do you mean you have a yellow wire from the front big lug of the solenoid? If so, then it is probably the one on Page 26 here: Start & Ignition - ???Gary's Garagemahal. Is that what you have?
I finally figured it out, even started a new thread only cause I was flustered but it was a stupid mistake. The pink/blue wire that connects to the yellow that goes to the inertia switch then comes back out.....well I never connected the other end to anything until this evening when it popped in my head that it should go to something. Found the connector on the drivers side fender well and plugged it in, hooked up the red wire from the fuel pump relay to the battery and turned the key on and Tada it worked.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 09:59 PM
  #218  
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Excellent! Glad it worked out. Congrat's!
 
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 09:59 PM
  #219  
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I do have something if you want to help me out once again, I almost can promise this will be the last time.....almost. I have a cluster with a tach in it and I would like to make it work if possible. I have went through your pages back and forth and up and down trying to figure out to see if I can. I have found the wire that goes from the distributor and splices off and one of those splices goes to the tach but doesn't really tell me how it gets there.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 10:00 PM
  #220  
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If your truck originally had gauges instead of idiot lights you already have the wire in the harness. Just plug the new cluster in and the tach should work.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 10:00 PM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Excellent! Glad it worked out. Congrat's!
Would not have been possible without your patience and hard work on your site, Thank you.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 07:01 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
If your truck originally had gauges instead of idiot lights you already have the wire in the harness. Just plug the new cluster in and the tach should work.
My concern is that I will be using the right wire when hooking everything up since I have changed from efi to carb and took out the wiring harness.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 07:10 AM
  #223  
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Refresh me on what you mean by "took out the wiring harness". I've forgotten what you've done since I've had sooooo many conversations of late about this with various people.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 04:34 PM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Refresh me on what you mean by "took out the wiring harness". I've forgotten what you've done since I've had sooooo many conversations of late about this with various people.
I took the complete wiring harness out of the truck from the computer connector on. I kept the wiring for the oil, temp sending units and then whatever the other wire is for. On the drivers side inner fender there were 3 connectors, 1 for the 3 previous wires mentioned and then 2 more. From what I can decipher the second connector (black/lt grn and DG and Y)was used for the ground of many things and is also one of the wires that went to the tach but I will be using it for the neg side of the coil- the other wire will go to a ground. Then the 3rd connector has 3 wires coming from it. Tan/red turns green and is supposedly for the neutral safety switch, the white/red is going to the positive side of the coil, and the Red/lt blue I have no clue but it is a switched hot so I may use that for the red wire on the fuel pump relay. The DG/Y wire that I am using for the neg side of the coil.....if I hook it up will that also still go to the tach for it to work?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 04:36 PM
  #225  
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Quick question.....what should I do with the red and black wires that would be used for the in tank fuel pumps but since I wont have pumps should I just cut them off or just clip the power wire on the outside of the plug so there is no chance of any spark...
 
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