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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 10:38 AM
  #331  
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David - I'm not sure which bolt you are talking about. (I took Dad's truck apart just to get this shot. ) There's one bolt which goes through the piece circled in yellow and then through the fender liner with a large washer on the outside. Then there is a bolt that holds the fender to the body where the green arrow is. But the liner is held to the fender by screws.

So, which bolt do you mean?


 
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 10:41 AM
  #332  
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On the box for the evap core and blower motor. If facing it from the front of the engine its the lower left side nut. I had to remove the inner fender just to get to it but I was wondering if I will have to do the same on my other truck or if there is a "trick" to reaching it without having to remove the whole inner fender.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 10:49 AM
  #333  
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I don't know of a trick for that one. Unless you can pull the bolt I circled in the above pic, and pull the screws on the liner in that area, and just pull it back out of the way. The liner is pretty flexible, so....
 
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 10:50 AM
  #334  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I don't know of a trick for that one. Unless you can pull the bolt I circled in the above pic, and pull the screws on the liner in that area, and just pull it back out of the way. The liner is pretty flexible, so....
Thats what I am thinking I will have to do as well but wanted to ask someone else with more experience than I first.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 11:41 AM
  #335  
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I haven't taken the HVAC box out w/o having already taken off the liner, so I don't know how to do it. Good luck and let us know.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 11:45 AM
  #336  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I haven't taken the HVAC box out w/o having already taken off the liner, so I don't know how to do it. Good luck and let us know.
I sure will, will try and take pictures as well. I'm going to try and get all of the inside unit as well for either parts or just replace all of it in the other truck. Going to attempt to gut what I can off this parts truck before I junk it. I wish I had somewhere to keep it but only way the wife would "let" me get it is if I promised it would not be there long. Has a great looking harness in it for the EFI and everything else. It's too bad I didn't come across it before I started my project, would have been so much cheaper and easier but I am chocking it up to getting some experience.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 11:54 AM
  #337  
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Originally Posted by maverick600
Just swapping parts from one AC truck to another. Both are factory AC trucks. I couldn't imagine trying to swap firewalls....may have been easier to swap cabs then.
Then you should be ok from AC to AC.


Everyone said the same thing but could not happen with the parts truck I had

and banker (wife) would not give more money for another cab so fire wall swap it was.





So it can be done just not for everyone to try!
Dave ----
 
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 12:54 PM
  #338  
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That is much more than I would have tried to take on...kudos to you.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 12:31 PM
  #339  
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Fuel problem

As I was working on the truck I noticed fuel coming out of the fuel tank at the inlet. I put my ear up to it and could hear hissing as if it was under pressure. I slowly loosened the fuel cap and fuel came flowing out of the tank. Once all the pressure was released it was completely full. I switched to the rear tank and it went down some. When I switched back to the front tank the level in the rear started to go back up. Apparently the fuel pump is pulling from the front tank and sending it to the rear tank as well as the carb.

To reflect - I am using a switching valve from Jeffs bronco for my switching valve, a electric fuel pump on the frame that flows 4 psi and have no in tank pumps.

1986-1989 Ford F-Series Truck Electric Tank Switching Valve-Broncograveyard.com

This is the switching valve. I will call Jeffs monday to inquire about it but I dont think it is supposed to draw from both tanks so maybe the one I have is faulty but is there a way to install check valves on the fuel lines to stop this from happening?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #340  
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It will draw from either tank but is not supposed to be deadheaded.

Either wire another one into your return, or use the six port Pollak valve.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 01:06 PM
  #341  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
It will draw from either tank but is not supposed to be deadheaded.

Either wire another one into your return, or use the six port Pollak valve.
I dont have any return, truck is using a carb now that is why I am only using a fuel pump with 4psi.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 01:09 PM
  #342  
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And it's not working... because electric pumps are not meant to be deadheaded.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 02:52 PM
  #343  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
And it's not working... because electric pumps are not meant to be deadheaded.
The way you are thinking is the pump is before the switching valve and when "dead headed" it is pushing fuel back into the other port?


I don't see how he could use 1 electric pump before the valve, he would need to run 2, 1 for each tank.
It would make more since to have the pump after the switch valve all be it electric pumps should be as close to the tank(s) and below fuel level - read inlet should be wet ALL the time. They also don't pull fuel well and why close to tanks.


If that truck came with that switching valve can you install a pump on the motor so this will work right?
Dave ----
 
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 02:58 PM
  #344  
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Both tanks go to the switching valve to the pump to the filter to the carb. I had thought about using 2 pumps but Gary helped me with this and it made more sense.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 03:06 PM
  #345  
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I vote for using a return line, electric motors will burn out faster when under continuous over-stress conditions.
 
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