Need advice
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I don't understand "Red to + side, black to ground, orange to - side." I need to know where you have the red and orange wires connected. In other words, where they go in the Ford wiring.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 4
From: Gulf Coast, MS
When this all first started I had checked for fire at the spark plug wire and the coil plug wire and was getting nothing so I called summit to verify I had everything hooked up correctly. Since I was on the phone with them they had me use a test light on the - side of the coil and turn the truck over. Since I couldnt see the light from inside the truck I jumped the solenoid and the test light flashed showing it was getting the pulse from the distributor to the coil.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 4
From: Gulf Coast, MS
They are attached to the coil with the ford wiring. Red and white/blue wire are on the + side of the coil and the orange and green/yellow are on the - side of the coil.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Are you saying the red wire from the distributor goes to the truck's white/light blue? And the distributor's orange wire goes to the truck's dark green/yellow?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 4
From: Gulf Coast, MS
Ok try and follow me with this diagram and I may see the solution.
I used the white/ lt blue wire for power in run to power the coil but looking at the drawing it shows that the brn/pnk wire has power in start and they are spliced together so does that mean that they BOTH should be going to the + side of the coil instead of just the white/lt blue? If so that would give me my constant 12v and power in start when cranking with the key yes??
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 4
From: Gulf Coast, MS
Yes. The constant 12v goes to the distributor through the red and comes out the orange wire to the - side of the coil so it will tell the coil to fire.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 4
From: Gulf Coast, MS
Ok try and follow me with this diagram and I may see the solution.
I used the white/ lt blue wire for power in run to power the coil but looking at the drawing it shows that the brn/pnk wire has power in start and they are spliced together so does that mean that they BOTH should be going to the + side of the coil instead of just the white/lt blue? If so that would give me my constant 12v and power in start when cranking with the key yes??[/QUOTE]
Well the answer is yes, it works as it should now. I can't believe I didnt pick up on that before, I guess it took the red circles you made on the diagram to point it out to me and pay attention to it.
It's been a productive evening, figured out the wiring, replaced the brake booster, replaced the cluster in the dash so I have a tach now and (like an idiot) took the thermostat housing off and turned the thermostat around the correct way all in almost 4 hours.
Thanks again to all that have tried to wrap their heads around what I am doing. I know its a little off the beaten path but if you if nothing else it has been an adventure.
I used the white/ lt blue wire for power in run to power the coil but looking at the drawing it shows that the brn/pnk wire has power in start and they are spliced together so does that mean that they BOTH should be going to the + side of the coil instead of just the white/lt blue? If so that would give me my constant 12v and power in start when cranking with the key yes??[/QUOTE]
Well the answer is yes, it works as it should now. I can't believe I didnt pick up on that before, I guess it took the red circles you made on the diagram to point it out to me and pay attention to it.
It's been a productive evening, figured out the wiring, replaced the brake booster, replaced the cluster in the dash so I have a tach now and (like an idiot) took the thermostat housing off and turned the thermostat around the correct way all in almost 4 hours.
Thanks again to all that have tried to wrap their heads around what I am doing. I know its a little off the beaten path but if you if nothing else it has been an adventure.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Well, I'm glad you got it fixed. But, I'll confess I didn't understand what you did to fix it.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 4
From: Gulf Coast, MS
The white/blue wire has power in run but what I didn't have was power going to the coil in start, that is provided by the brn/pink wire. In the original wiring they are spliced together so when the white/blue wire was connected to the coil it would get power from both start and run but when I took my wiring harness apart I took the splice out and separated the wires since I didn't notice I needed the brn/pink wire as well.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Here's the best info I have, and it includes troubleshooting tips: Power Windows - ???Gary's Garagemahal
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 4
From: Gulf Coast, MS
Evaporator removal
Gary, I was just reading a ac thread and saw you were involved in the thread about converting dad's truck to 134 I believe it was. I purchased a parts truck, 86 Lariat with working AC before the oil pump went. Luckily for me his wife was tired of seeing the truck in the driveway. Today I pulled the Evaporator box from the engine bay which was pretty easy since there is no motor, hood or anything else in the way. I had to pull the inner fender well on the pass side to get to the bottom nut beside the pass side fender. Is there a trick to getting to this nut in a working vehicle or will I have to do the same thing?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Wish I could answer that question but when I did my swap the nose were off both trucks.
Now I got to ask what the plan is for this AC? Is it a swap of good AC parts in to a AC truck or AC parts in to a Non-AC truck to give it AC?
If the later know the fire walls are different between the 2 trucks.
I can tell you it is best to cut the needed holes and fill the others in the fire wall than try and swap fire walls. Ask how I know!
Dave ----
Now I got to ask what the plan is for this AC? Is it a swap of good AC parts in to a AC truck or AC parts in to a Non-AC truck to give it AC?
If the later know the fire walls are different between the 2 trucks.
I can tell you it is best to cut the needed holes and fill the others in the fire wall than try and swap fire walls. Ask how I know!
Dave ----