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I understood what you meant, the link I posted shows all their carbs not just the performer ones. I just said that about the secondary jets cause I thought it was interesting is all. I do agree that the thunder series would be the way to go.
Ok. I just wasn't sure that I explained it well. Good luck, and let us know what you decide and how it works.
By the way, my boat towing uses the secondaries frequently. Our boat is 25' and weighs 5500 lbs, so on hills I have to open them up and then back off slightly to maintain speed.
Sure will and thanks for the help. I just told the wife that I need to move the truck to the driveway, she still hasn't answered me haha but will help with motivational purposes cause laying in the grass is a little undesireable. Good point on the towing part, There are a couple occasions that I have to give my 96 a little more gas to get going up hills. Mine weights about the same amount but only 22ft.
Actually, the 5500 lbs is dry weight, including the trailer, and some gear. The thing holds 57 gallons of gas, so there's about 350 lbs when full. Then there are anchors, skis, life jackets, ropes, ect that will easily make it 6,000 lbs. However, we are pulling it to Lake Powell in a month with the 2015 F150 and I'm going to have it almost dry of fuel and move most of the "stuff" to the truck for the trip. That way the trailer will be a smaller portion of the weight, and the "stuff" will be under lock and key as well as not visible.
It probably weighed the 5500 lbs when towing it back when we bought it. Brought it home with Rusty on the Turner Turnpike which has lots of fairly steep hills. Towed at 65 MPH and at 58 - 60 on the uphills I'd have to light off the secondaries. And, while full throttle was just a bit much and it would accelerate beyond 65 MPH, I'd feather the throttle and keep it between 60 and 65. And that is with a warmed up 351M running a 600 CFM 1406 w/a C6 and 3.50 gears.
So, if you are towing with a 302 and have similar gearing you'll be into the secondaries several times on a trip.
10/4 on that, fortunately the boat ramp I use is about 4 miles from my house.
On a different note....I am looking at fuel pressure regulators, wopuld you happen to have a recommendation? Seems that everyone and their brother makes/ sells one but I am ignorant to them. I know I need one that is adjustable and also need one with a return. I would like one with a guage just cause I would think you could be more accurate knowing what the exact pressure is going to the carb.
Why do you need a return? I have a mechanical fuel pump so don't need one.
I run this regulator from Summit and this gauge from them. The regulator actually says "Holley" on it and surely the one from Holley that costs $5 more - also from Summit.
I have been looking/searching and from what I have found which must be true since it's on the internet....they have 1 piece and 2 piece fuel pump eccentrics. The EFI engines have 1 piece most likely and there is a chance I may need a different timing cover to run a mechanical fuel pump so since I need to replace my fuel tank and sending unit I was going to go with the in tank fuel pump since it all has to be replaced. With the fuel pressure from the in tank pump although not as high as the high pressure pump I would guess it is still higher than what the carb would need so my thinking is that I would need the return regulator.
You need more input than just mine on this as I have zero experience on in-tank pumps.
But, from what I remember of the little I've read the in-tank pumps are ok working w/o a return while the frame-mounted high-pressure Ford pumps do need a return. Again, that is what remember, and my memory is OLD.
Might another option be to go with an external electric fuel pump, like this Carter from Summit? It puts out a max of 4 psi so no regulator is needed, and not return either.
Reviews seem pretty positive about it. I was worried it would not be enough pressure but seems like those that left reviews like it alot. I may just have to go that way instead which the price works very well. I can just buy a sending unit without a pump also. Or I may be able to use this on the sending unit instead of the factory one in the tank. Only thing is I would have to make some type of filter on the end. I assume it would keep the same pressure from inside the tank to the carb.
Last edited by maverick600; Jul 25, 2016 at 11:23 AM.
Reason: Added response.
Ok so today I decided to do some work on the truck...in the rain. This time of year it rains every day so it was either wait or get off my *** and do something. I stripped back the wiring harness and singled out the oil and temp switch wires which are on the same plug on the drivers side fender well but there is another wire that looks to have a violetish color to it. It goes and gets grouped together with 4 other wires that go to the plug for the distributor and other things. I will post the picture. I also started taking off the accessories off the motor and also took off the all the stuff on the pass side fender well that won't be needed anymore(hopefully). I just want to make sure of what other wires I need out of the harness before I get it out of the firewall. I THINK that the wires that go to the inertia switch has a plug on the pass side fender well - one side of the plug has 2 yellow wires coming out of it and the other side of the plug has.....I don't remember. Will have to take more pictures, it started pouring on me so I came inside. Going to look on Gary's site to see if I can find a wiring schematic to look at.
Everything that used to be here is gone, looks much better without all the clutter. Oh...what is the ball with the vacuum line going to it? Is it a reservoir for the AC system?
My spaghetti mess of wires.
These are the wires for the sending units and the other wire I was talking about.
Wiring from the alternator, seems to be some corrosion, not sure if I can do anything with this or just try and find another harness.
A picture of the fuel pump block off plate, I am kind of excited about the fact that you can still see the cork gasket behind it. The guy I bought it from said this was a reman engine and it wasn't that old.
Progress made....
Does anyone need any of this stuff? Also have all the stuff off the pass side fender well and all the vacuum hoses.
Yes I have many questions I should have apologized in advance, I just want to be accurate in what I do and hate having to do things more than once. Check and recheck.
More goodies came in today, still haven't broken down and bought my carb yet. Been trying to find the best price but not much luck but jegs has a reman for cheaper and seems to still have a year warranty on it so just may go in that direction. Have tons of stuff to buy still but getting there.
On page 29 I found that connector C325 and it has a brown with pink wire(which makes more sense) going to 4 white with blue stripe wires going all over. This must be what I have, so now I know officially what it does. Any chance you can help me find the wire that will go to the tach in the cluster so I can try and make that work?
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