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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 05:52 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Should work - until the little manifold crumbles. They were designed to live with air going through them, so they can stand the heat. But with no air the corrosive exhaust gasses eat them up fairly quickly.
Point taken, the main reason I used the cap was because I wasn't sure how difficult it was going to be to get them out of the head or to close it. You said a bolt with a copper washer iirc? Almost like a oil drain plug?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 06:00 PM
  #197  
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Looking back, we've already had some of this conversation. Anyway, while things are off I'd go ahead and plug the holes. It takes a 5/8-11 bolt about 1/2" long. I used a copper washer as well as high temp red RTV on the threads.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 05:12 PM
  #198  
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Well I finally got all my parts in but it seems that mother nature doesn't want me to work on my truck anytime soon. I also had to order the fill hoses for both tanks, for some reason none of the parts houses locally even listed them so now more waiting. Maybe by then the rain will stop and I can get to work.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 06:55 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Looking back, we've already had some of this conversation. Anyway, while things are off I'd go ahead and plug the holes. It takes a 5/8-11 bolt about 1/2" long. I used a copper washer as well as high temp red RTV on the threads.
Gary, do you happen to know where you found these bolts at? I tried at Ace hardware and they didn't have anything close to it.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 08:39 PM
  #200  
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A 5/8" bolt with 11 turns per inch is a standard bolt. Here's a link to Amazon showing lots of 5/8-11 fasteners: https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_170bc8949j_b

You want the shortest hex-head bolt you can get and then cut it down to 1/2" of threads. Run it in the head a few times to clean out the carbon and make sure it'll go in, and then put it in with a copper washer under the head and sealer on the threads. You can use Teflon tape, PTFE paste, or anti-seize.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 09:53 PM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
...and then cut it down to 1/2" of threads.
What I do to shorten bolts... first, thread a nut onto the thing, THEN use a hacksaw (or whatever) to shorten it, then remove the nut... the removal action "fixes" the now-kinda-damaged threads so the bolt can more easily be threaded into something.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 10:22 PM
  #202  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
What I do to shorten bolts... first, thread a nut onto the thing, THEN use a hacksaw (or whatever) to shorten it, then remove the nut... the removal action "fixes" the now-kinda-damaged threads so the bolt can more easily be threaded into something.
I'd rep you if I could. I do that religiously and don't even think about others not knowing. (And I have a set of thread-chasing files that easily clean up most threads.)
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 12:38 AM
  #203  
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Tip, Deburr them with a wire wheel before removing the nut. (or file or grinder)

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 06:14 PM
  #204  
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Ok heads are done, thanks to all. I have to admit I had a complete meltdown in the brain once I looked at the link Gary.....Ace hardware actually has 5/8 bolts that are 1 inch long. Worked well especially after I used a tap on it. I am having another one that I need some help with. I'm getting ready to start putting it back together after the rain stops from this depression out in the gulf passes, the intake I am using has the threaded holes for vacuum ports and in the front the 90 for the heater hose and temp gauge sending unit but I just want to make sure that I am not forgetting anything. From what I have read that the higher runner on the pass side is better used for vacuum if I am able to use the port on the back of the carb for the pcv valve. The upper intake I took off has a tree coming off of it for all the vacuum hoses used, can I just use that although some of the vacuum hoses that were existing are gone now or use something else? iirc there was a hose that went from the intake to a small vacuum manifold on the firewall that was used for different things but I dont remember if the brake booster had its own port at this particular moment.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 07:32 PM
  #205  
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The brake booster is a large hose(3/8) so it usually has it's own special spot. Try to keep the PCV as close to the carb as you can, either the carb has another large 3/8 port for it, or you can use the spacer. The PCV gases can foul your idle up unless it's mixed evenly to all the cylinders. The brake booster doesn't matter as much, as long as you have a large enough port and it has manifold(all the time) vacuum.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 07:36 PM
  #206  
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I think I must have taken a "confused" pill today and many posts are not making sense to me. Can you restate the question(s)?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 08:43 PM
  #207  
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And insert some white space, blocks of text are hard to read.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 08:24 AM
  #208  
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The two threaded holes in the rear of the intake, what should they be used for? Should I separate the brake booster from a vacuum tree and plug one of the holes or utilize both of them? I didn't know if I used them both if it would effect the engine in anyway.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 08:58 AM
  #209  
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Does Dave's post answer your question?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 10:32 AM
  #210  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Does Dave's post answer your question?
Yep, it does.
 
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