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I don't think it should backflow into the other tank. In fact, I don't think it should backflow at all. So, I'd call Carter's tech line and explain what is happening, how you have it set up, etc.
Spoke to Carter's tech line, have them my set up and what we came up with is that since the truck wasn't running but the pump was the fuel it was pulling from the front tank must have been bypassing the switch valve and pushing fuel to the rear tank since it has no where else to go. I am going to try and reach standard who made the switch valve and see if it's a defect or not. Tech guy also stated that I do not need a return line for this pump.
The fact that the tech from Carter says no return is needed is significant. But, I still don't understand how there is pressure on the back side of the pump - enough pressure to potentially overpower the valve and push fuel into the other tank. Anyway, maybe the valve is defective.
The fact that the tech from Carter says no return is needed is significant. But, I still don't understand how there is pressure on the back side of the pump - enough pressure to potentially overpower the valve and push fuel into the other tank. Anyway, maybe the valve is defective.
Me too???
How can a pump push liquid back in to the system on the suction side of the pump???
Think you got a line of BS!
As I said only way is if the low tank go psi on it and pushed fuel over to the other tank.
Dave - - - -
Spoke to Carter's tech line, have them my set up and what we came up with is that since the truck wasn't running but the pump was the fuel it was pulling from the front tank must have been bypassing the switch valve and pushing fuel to the rear tank since it has no where else to go. I am going to try and reach standard who made the switch valve and see if it's a defect or not. Tech guy also stated that I do not need a return line for this pump.
I have a 1985 f700, for 10 years I wondered why I got more mileage from the left tank compared to the right tank. Finally I noticed every time I switched from the left to the right, I had 3/4 or 1/2 tank on the right.
So I changed the selector valve (Standard #FV-1 ). It solved my problem.
Now 6 years later it's doing it again, this time around the left tank has a leak as of 2 months ago. I have not put fuel in it but I have fuel leaking on the ground.
Time for a new valve and get the tank repaired. I will go out on a limb and say you have a defective switch valve.
I have a 1985 f700, for 10 years I wondered why I got more mileage from the left tank compared to the right tank. Finally I noticed every time I switched from the left to the right, I had 3/4 or 1/2 tank on the right.
So I changed the selector valve (Standard #FV-1 ). It solved my problem.
Now 6 years later it's doing it again, this time around the left tank has a leak as of 2 months ago. I have not put fuel in it but I have fuel leaking on the ground.
Time for a new valve and get the tank repaired. I will go out on a limb and say you have a defective switch valve.
You just made me think of something.
Again I can't see how the pump can be the cause but you brought up the bad valve.
What if that valve is letting fuel pass between them as in seeking to level them both out? This would happen running or not.
That's my story and I am sticking to it!
Dave -- - -
You just made me think of something.
Again I can't see how the pump can be the cause but you brought up the bad valve.
What if that valve is letting fuel pass between them as in seeking to level them both out? This would happen running or not.
That's my story and I am sticking to it!
Dave -- - -
You just made me think of something.
Again I can't see how the pump can be the cause but you brought up the bad valve.
What if that valve is letting fuel pass between them as in seeking to level them both out? This would happen running or not.
That's my story and I am sticking to it!
Dave -- - -
Exactly. It seems I fill up the right tank (left tank is empty), then the next morning it is leaking out of the left tank. I can get 10 or 12 miles before the left tank runs out. (So about 3 imperial gallons.)
Ok I am back to needing a little advice. I am swapping cabs in my truck and pulled the dash out today. I am not going to have cruise on my truck and was going to eliminate the wiring to clean up the engine bay once I have it all back together but after looking at Gary's page I am not sure that I can do that but wanted to get some input please.
I believe this is the cruise control box that is mounted with the computer for the EFI. I am not sure what the silver box is mounted on top of the cruise box.
The plug with the green and black wire I am using for my hot in start to my coil and the black is going to a chassis ground but connects to the cruise box.
These are the other connectors that are also wired in to the cruise box and to the little silver box on top of the cruise box.
Unless I am mistaken about the only thing I can do is eliminate the EEC and the tan plug that goes in to the cruise box and the corresponding wiring that goes through the firewall that hooks to the cruise control mechanism in the engine compartment.
Ok I had to go back and look at my wiring harness because what I had said about using the green wire from that plug was bugging me so I went back through this thread and did some reading and I was wrong. I was using the green wire as a ground for the coil (not needed) and the black wire I had ran to the battery. So....that plug is now going to be eliminated. But from what I can gather I will still need to have the box in order to have my everything within the steering column to work still. Am I correct in this? If so I can just unplug the wires that went to the servo under the hood and cut off the green and black wire(plug) that went through the firewall as well and just get a plug for that hole.
The little silver box is the horn relay, only trucks that had speed control (Cruise Control is a trademark of General Motors) had such a relay.
The green & black wires I'm pretty sure are what was originally connecting the tachometer to the coil.
Ahh this my be why I had it hooked to the coil. If I remember correctly the green wire was for the tach and the black needed to be grounded for the 8 cyl and if not it would revert to reading as it was a 6 cyl. Will have to go back and do some research but hopefully someone will chime in.
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