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I've been told time and time again with mine is to stick with Motorcraft for Ford's unless you're going with Edelbrock/brand name stuff from the pros on here.
RockAuto.com and Oriley's are my two places to get 99% of my new parts. They may not be the cheapest but it's worth getting the right part the FIRST time.
Look up Row52.com too. They'll list the yards that have the Year/Make/Model Ford's you're wanting used parts from.
Lastly, I love that I have a carb! Sounds and feels great! Just have to change out my whole exhaust and it'll be more than the engine sounding great.
Gary, you touched on one of my biggest concerns is what else isn't going to work if I do salvage the fuel injection. I have been to 2 junkyards so far and have not been able to find one that hasn't been stripped of the wiring harnesses. I would like to go with the DII but the way it's looking I don't think it's an option. I am going to go to Mobile this weekend and look in a couple JY over there and if I can't find anything then my options are limited.
Next on my list is to figure out what works and what doesn't and why on the fuel system. I believe the high pressure pump is working but need to make sure and then start hunting from there. Also going to drop the tanks and check on condition of inside and check for power and so forth. Just wish I was able to do this while at the station, sure would make the day go by faster.
If I do go carb, what do I do about my transmission? I'm guessing I can just order a new accelerator cable for a different year that had a carb but I didnt even notice a kickdown cable or anything for the transmission when I pulled the upper intake off, is there something I have missed?
A dual function reservoir is $300.
A Painless DSII harness is $200
A DSII distributor,coil, plug wires and module is going to be $250 for anything close to decent.
Then you STILL have to replace the pumps and figure out the problem (which is most likely a $300 computer)
Plus the engine harness, injectors and fuel rail, etc. etc...
Mechanical pump $50
HEI $50/80 w/ plug wires (delivered from Ebay )
Switch valve $79 (delivered from Ebay)
I really like Matthew's intake & carb kit
A Performer and Autolite carb seem perfect for a truck like this.
If I do go carb, what do I do about my transmission? I'm guessing I can just order a new accelerator cable for a different year that had a carb but I didnt even notice a kickdown cable or anything for the transmission when I pulled the upper intake off, is there something I have missed?
Just get a cable for an '86 351 H.O.
A C6 should have a kickdown *rod* and a vacuum line going to the modulator.
So it looks like a carb uses a *push* rod and your EFI uses a *pull* cable.
The arm on the transmission is different...
Maybe one of the aftermarket cables intended for Mustang (conversion to carb) 5.0l C6 combos is the answer.
A quick glance seems like they are about $35.
I don't run a kickdown rod on Rusty. The C6 uses a vacuum modulator to determine when to shift up or down under part-throttle, and the kickdown rod just tells it when to shift at full throttle. If I need that I pull the shift lever into 2nd.
I agree, if you are going to carb, don't worry about the kickdown at first. That can be another little project down the road, it's not a requirement to have it working on the c6. But later you will find the truck will be much more useful with it on there especially with the little 302. It needs all the help it can get and dropping the tranny into 2nd helps wake it up. Too much going on now though, I would postpone it's installation.
Finally got a chance to work on the truck. Checked all my fuses at the fuse block and all were good except the radio fuse. Checked for power at the inertia switch and nothing so I went to the cut off relay and checked there and had power on 3 of the 4 since the 1 is grounded from the computer. I think this was the final "straw" that made me decide to go old school. I have already found an intake and distributor. Im probably going to get a used carb and I will just go with a aftermarket electric fuel pressure pump. Now since the in tank pumps were low pressure but from what I have read they pump about the right amount of pressure for a carb do you think that will work or would I still need another pump? Also since my fuel tank switch was to activate either tank pump then theoretically I can still use that IF I use in tank pumps....
The computer runs the pumps for one second when the key comes on, and waits for a signal from the PIP sensor to begin the pump cycle again.
Without a EEC-IV distributor or an ECM what is going to engage the pumps?
Basically you're 'all in' or all out.
Rewiring your truck so the in-tank pumps work as they should is going to be a major undertaking.
Well look who just rained on my parade!!! I was hoping that it was going to be a little easier than that. My thoughts were that if I bypassed the inertia switch and ran power to the tank selector switch then which ever tank I decided to use would be powered by the switch when I selected it. Seemed easy in my head!!
The inertia switch is just a simple safety feature.
It has nothing to do with the PCM's control of the fuel pump relay (except that it will shut off power going TO the relay in the event of a major accident)
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