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Old Nov 16, 2016 | 05:23 PM
  #256  
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Yeah, Photobucket's been having some issues lately. I think they're working on getting them sorted out since I keep seeing a "down for maintenance" image pop up. At least they're trying to fix it. Last I went on there, it was working like it was back to normal.

And yeah, you emailed me a pic of the roadster, I thought that was pretty cool to see. The color on it was great.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2016 | 05:56 PM
  #257  
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Photobucket has been a royal pain lately. I recently started using Postimage.org . So far it's been ok. I'll see how it does after I've used it for a longer period of time.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 06:06 PM
  #258  
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Tech question:

The builder called me today and said that he checked bearing clearances on the crank, and even though they're in spec (about 1.9 I think) he feels that's a little tight and likes them a bit more, such as around 2 (I'm assuming 0.002"), which would require a line hone.
However, he also said that since I'm running normal 10w-30, I could probably get away with the tighter tolerances.

No decision's been made. What are your guys' thoughts?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 06:29 PM
  #259  
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
Tech question:

The builder called me today and said that he checked bearing clearances on the crank, and even though they're in spec (about 1.9 I think) he feels that's a little tight and likes them a bit more, such as around 2 (I'm assuming 0.002"), which would require a line hone.
However, he also said that since I'm running normal 10w-30, I could probably get away with the tighter tolerances.

No decision's been made. What are your guys' thoughts?
Maybe I'm having a brain fart here. But why would it require line honing? Wouldn't he just change bearings or remove material from the crank, if he wanted more bearing clearance?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 02:06 PM
  #260  
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I might have misunderstood him. Again, it was a quick phone conversation and I'll get more details when I actually go in and talk to him.
The main question though was about the tolerances. Should I leave it a bit tight (albeit in spec)?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 02:35 PM
  #261  
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
I might have misunderstood him. Again, it was a quick phone conversation and I'll get more details when I actually go in and talk to him.
The main question though was about the tolerances. Should I leave it a bit tight (albeit in spec)?
I think you should ask FTF. He's The Dude.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 11:38 AM
  #262  
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Ok, here's some more info on the bearing clearances. He was recommending line honing it because it would accomplish two things. First, loosening it just a touch, and two, straight out the bearings. He could grind the cam down some, but then the bearings would still not be straight.

(Note: #7 I don't know the off-center on because the photo I took for notes had a big shine on it right over the number.)

Bearing - Off Center - Clearance
1 - 0.0005 - 0.0017
2 - 0.0002 - 0.0012
3 - 0.0000 - 0.0012
4 - 0.0000 - 0.001
5 - 0.0002 - 0.0013
6 - 0.0003 - 0.0013
7 - ??? - 0.0018

However, since the 300 has 7 bearings, it's a little more expensive at $150. Once the cam is laid in and able to rotate, we'll see how tight it is and make a decision then. It might not be an issue.


Either way, some eye candy:

The pistons getting prepped:

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The main bearings in place:

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The cam bearings in place:

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The head all resurfaced and looking gorgeous:

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Caught him installing the freeze plugs this morning. I wish I'd stopped him on the last one. I have a block heater I want to put in. Oh well.

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0.030" off the block.

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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 12:50 PM
  #263  
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Very, very nice!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 08:00 PM
  #264  
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Ohhh, I just love that head. Now that I look closely, I can see that whoever did the porting cut into the s.plug boss to unshroud the exhaust valve a bit. It also appears as if he cut a bit around the intake too, just to the side of the s.plug boss. I could be wrong. It may just appear that way in the photo? Either way, excellent work. Such a beautiful job. Centerfold material.

So tell me, AB, was the Master worth it?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 11:27 AM
  #265  
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I can see what you mean about the spark plug boss and around the intake. I'd have to go back and look at it, because yeah, it's hard to tell in the picture. Some look like it, some don't. Might just be the light and shine? There's a lot of shine.

Heh, worth it is still yet to be determined, but if nothing else, I am aching to fire it up and and get it broken in to see what it'll do. However, every bit of it that I've seen has been top notch work, so I'm pleased.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 11:30 AM
  #266  
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Quick question:

What's the consensus on head bolts vs. studs? Are stock head bolts plenty?
Should I switch to studs?

I was looking at an ARP head stud kit and they're nearly $100 for a set.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 12:14 PM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
Quick question:

What's the consensus on head bolts vs. studs? Are stock head bolts plenty?
Should I switch to studs?

I was looking at an ARP head stud kit and they're nearly $100 for a set.
Anything that can be done to improve head gasket sealing is a good thing. And $100 won't seem all that expensive if you end up needing to replace a head gasket done the road. Are they 100% necessary? Probably not. Are they well worth the money? Yep!

To me the head studs are a good upgrade. If you want to re-use a stock fastner it would be the main cap bolts. I personally feel the head bolts and rod bolts are a good place to make an upgrade.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 03:21 PM
  #268  
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Sounds good, just checking. The rod bolts will be ARP, as will the rocker arm studs. Might as well do the head bolts and switch them to ARP studs.

Does ARP head studs change the torque settings?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 05:31 PM
  #269  
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco

Does ARP head studs change the torque settings?
They should come with instructions that will tell you the their recommended torque specs.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 11:56 AM
  #270  
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Originally Posted by fordman75
They should come with instructions that will tell you the their recommended torque specs.
My set did not come with instructions. I torqued to oem specs, but should have contacted ARP, now that I think about it.

I switched to them because when the builder broke down the first engine he mentioned that the head gasket was getting ready to fail between two cylinders. I thought the oem bolts, after 40 years, might be a bit tired.

The only issue I've had with them is that one interferes with the valve cover--which is Cliffy. Stock cover may not hit.
 
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