1978-1979 Crew Cab build thread
Upon topping off the fluids, I noticed a consistent stream of oil pee from under the truck. Closer inspection revealed a small hole in the oil pan. Upon closer-closer inspection, I noticed at least four jb weld points on the oil pan (keep in mind this used to be a plow truck).
We had everything said up to fire, and now here we sit with a pissing dog urinating oil all over the ground (now oil pan).
I visited my 1996 shop manual for the power stroke trucks. Apparently now I know why they welded the **** out of some spots instead of simply changing the oil pan. Apparently the motor needs to be partially lifted out of the bay to accommodate the pans girth and clear the cross member.
Well s!@$, mine has a 4" body lift, is not the correct frame (78 versus 96), I should be fine.
NOPE.
The good news is I have no idea how long that hole was present, was there enough oil to keep the internals lubricated, how the hell do I get this out.
First thought, rotate the motor using the crank shaft pulley, see if this helps the pan clear the bottom end. Nope! But, the motor spun freely, so no worries about the presence of internal lubrication.
Cherry picker time. Nope, wont budge cause the arms to far extended to ****** the weight of the drive train even two inches.
More good news, my neighbor has a bobcat. We will be lifting the motor the required distance and installing the new oil pan this coming Saturday. So no video of it running as of today. Shooting for next weekend.
My neighbors a hunter. His dads Bobcat is only to be run by their family. So he's hunting.
What to do? Grabbed the cherry picker (engine hoist), a bottle jack, and beer.
Now I always say this, and its worth a repeat. No hillbillies were harmed in the process, but damn near.
Some pictures, cause it didn't happen without a picture, right?
Pictures coming, though they are not many.
The cherry picker was able to lift the girth. but just enough to tease us with maybe 1/2 inch of clearance of the front cross member. Well, lets grab a bottle jack, push up on the bell housing with it, and make it happen.
Now, at this point, I must throw out a disclaimer. My buddy Willard was under the truck working the bottle jack, we had (disclaimer alert) assumed the transmission was bolted into its cross member (we were wrong), and I was asked to pump one or two more times on the cherry picker. The disclaimer here is never be under a truck with 1000 plus pounds overhead, without checking all mount points.
So I pumped, he pumped, then the motor jumped. Not to life mind you, but forwards and up about 3 total inches, as the transmission mounting bolts freed themselves from the cross-member, enough that the oil pan freed itself from its snuggly confines and crashing to the concrete. Willard may (or may not) have shat himself at that moment, but all I could think of was "so this is how one of us dies; under a truck?"
Once again, no hillbillies were injured. Willard and I lived on to fight other battles. But I digress...
We cleaned up the oil pan mounting surfaces on the block using 000 steel wool, brake cleaner, and a modified steel scraper. Works great, as there was a ton of sealant on the mating surfaces, enough to make me wonder why I didn't have Small Block Ritchie (the guy who put in the motor and fabbed the motor mounts) at least check all that crap out first. Oh well, next time.
Oil pan went on smoothly, everything torqued down to spec, good to go, or are we?
Guess what, now we have to line it back up to make sure everything can be securely mounted again (this time with the transmission mounted as well).
That took a while...but its done....
The installation was pretty straight forward. Front clip was removed, fork lift used to lower entire drivetrain as one piece into the chassis, once mocked into place, turbo was clocked to allow for downpipe clearance. Two important notes on this part:
1. My truck has a four inch body lift. Without it, not sure it would have fit.
2. If you can, make your own downpipe. The stock one is flatter and way restricting.
I also deleted the factory fan and used two electric fans for clearance and reliability, mounted them to the radiator.
We used the factory motor mounts (new ones), and Smallblock Ritchie custom fabbed the frame mounts.
The Trans cross member was moved back/repositioned, and voila, it's in. The harder part is the electronics. More on that to come.
Now about posting videos....anyone?
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The second is letting warm up and idle.
Sorry about the angle, I was seriously overwhelmed with a heaping helping of "holy shniekes" and was not prepared.
Thinking about purchasing, but unfamiliar with them...
Looking at the "DIESEL" truck cowl/fender insert
Welcome to Once Upon a Part
Thinking about purchasing, but unfamiliar with them...
Looking at the "DIESEL" truck cowl/fender insert
Welcome to Once Upon a Part
I am always suspect of a place that doesn't have a physical address on the site...the number with the name is a little reassuring though...
It is clear there can only be two paths (in my head anyway).
1. the majority of the electrical components on the donor steering wheel do not have direct plugs, more like mounting points. I would love to use the original steering wheel, thusly avoiding...
2. Modify the donor steering wheel to install in place of the original. The mount holes are 2 inches shorter from the wheel on the donor versus stock. Additionally, the steering shaft is 6" shorter than the stock, so I would need to have a steering shaft fabricated to make up the difference.
Oddly enough, number 2 sounds more reasonable in regards to ensuring reliability and functionality as :
1. I am not an electrician, nor electrical engineer. If something is to get FUBAR'd, it would be here and by my own hands
2. As we get older, we typically get fatter. Wouldn't 2" more of breathing room between my gut and the edge of the steering wheel after a late night 4th meal run make more sense?
I don't know yet. Still weighing the two options. If anyone has a thought, please feel free to chime in...
Mounted the solar tech lights up top (for now), and put the 4 KC day lighters from my Carr bar on it. Mounted them so when time come, I will pierce the night and offer 180 degrees of viewing.







