1978-1979 Crew Cab build thread
* The Dana 60 is being done professionally (explain that in the bad news)
* The Full float sterling 10.25 axle in the crew cab when I bought it, is correct with a 4:10 gear ratio
* The engineering of the Sterling axle will make the swap of the disc brake set up on the donor sterling axle to my existing sterling axle easier than originally anticipated
* My buddy discussed temperatures created in axles under load and thusly talked me out of rhino lining the axles. Will be sticking with the chassis gloss black paint
The bad:
* The donor sterling has 3.53 gear ratio, and is weld locked. So I will not be using that axle but will instead be selling it once the disc brakes are swapped off.
* The donor D60 to replace my stock 44 has at he same 3.53 as they came off the same rig. This obviously necessitates a gear change in the D60.
* The previous owner had an issue with the lock hub on the D60, so he welded the internal clip. We had to get it off, and the outer shaft is no longer good.
* Some of the internal seals are bad, so essentially a full rebuild is coming.
I already have the spindle nut. Looking for the hub removal tool.
I am converting to disc brakes in the rear, so the hub needs to come off. Ideas?
Going to break this down as best I can step by step.
This is what the book tells you...
Now, don't get me wrong, I love books. And this looks to be fairly straight forward. The best part is this book has pictures. But having never done this on one of these axles, I was still a bit nervous.
So step one. Open your beer. Charge up your air compressor. Look at tire....
Step two, remove the tire. Would have taken a picture, but I only have two hands; one for the beer and one for the tire.
Step 3, remove the antiquated drum brakes that barely stopped your truck adequately.
Step 4, charge up air compressor again, open another beer (it's hot damn it). See all these bolts? They need to come off.
Don't lose these bolts, they are kind of important...
Remove the axle shaft
Treat that shaft like gold. Don't just drop it. Carefully guide it out of the axle tube.
Step 6. Grab another beer

Step 7. There is a hub nut in here. It takes a four (4) pronged hub nut socket, not to be confused with the six (6) pronged hub nut socket found on older Dana 60's.
This is threaded specifically to the side of the truck it is on. Please consult book as I am no expert. But I believe the book set left hand thread for the passenger side and right hand thread for the driver side.

Step. 8 Comment about how hot it is and how much you love the smell of gear lube in the evening.
Step 9. Once its off, inspect the bearings for wear.
Step 10. If you can't get the hub off by hand (as some others have indicated you could do), and you can't find the part number related to the ford service manual for the step and the puller, gentle use of a slide hammer works as well.
I have no pictures here, as I was being careful as to not mar any parts, or damage any threads, etc.
I used the hub nut socket to assist in keeping the balance so as not to damage my threads.
Grab another beer, grab some primer, grab some paint, and grab a wire brush...
Where the hub was (back part) has some accumulated debris and rust. Clean that off and be sure not to get any of the gunk on the shiny metal...
Better seen here...
Primer for now
Final step of tear down: belch loudly, realize you are out of beer, realize you don't have the axle seal outer or hub to replace the parts that were on there, and you forget to get the donor rotors (in my case) turned prior to re installation.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rear axle (sterling 10.25) is buttoned up except for the "o'ring" I am still chasing down a part number for.
The disc brakes are on the rear axle (sterling 10.25).
Didn't do the math, my rims are hitting the calipers. three options:
1. sand disc down the caliper to make clearance
2. get a bigger spacer to push the rim far enough away for no rub.
3. buy bigger rims (hope not)
Dana 60 is done (rebuilt). Picking up and then putting on the new lock out hubs
Found a Baja cage with over roof rack. Hoping to pick up this weekend.
Pictures to come....
Answer: E5TZ-4A331-A
Have I mentioned I love this shop. Old school driveline shop. He built my drive shafts for my Original CC, built the driveshaft for my 72 chevelle, rebuilt my drive shafts (including my trail spares) for my 1979 bronco, and now has built my D60.
If you are in western Michigan, this is the shop I would recommend:
D&R Driveline Inc. @ www.drdrivelineinc.com
Anyway, I digress. Many pictures to come as we are buttoning up the front end.
But I digress....
Picked up something for the truck that will need to be painted most certainly.
For you purist, please turn away, back out etc. You will be more than likely be butt hurt by what I am adding to Eleanor (as if the diesel wasn't bad enough).
The good news is, for what I payed for it I couldn't have even bought the metal to try and make my own.
The bad news is its powder coated, should be fun painting over that/stripping it/powder coating over it.
A quad will fit between the rails ( a smaller quad that it is), although it is designed to handle two dirt bikes.
It designed to handle two spare tires, but not sure if:
a. it will fit with these 37" MTR's
b. that would be a heavy lift.
Lights were included. Looking for military grade lockers (weather proof) to put on the top rack for storage, etc.
So if your in the area, its an open invite. Come on over and lend your brain. Saturday morning. Three or more brains are better than our two.
If not, and we manage to get everything situated, I will post a video.
Having said that, this is my current hell in the garage...
Its sad I have a two stall, yet only one stall is currently capable of holding a vehicle.
Not like Eleanor would fit in here anyway. But my better half sure would like to park her car in here for the cold winter months....



