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Don't just tease us and say that post up some pics of them. would like to see how plating turned out and what did they cost to do if you don't mind me asking?
I posted this from the comfort of the lazy-boy... the gauges were all the way in the garage... brrr...
First cluster I bought, after re-chroming. Original gauges.
Original gauges.
Fuel paint is hammered.
Little white spot on the vacuum gauge, and the chrome ring is a bit rusty.
Bezel alone.
2nd set of gauges... replaced most of them already.
Was going to keep the ammeter, but broke it on the way out... new one coming soon.
2nd bezel, no side holes cut. Back from the re-chromer.
Dry-fit...
Red LED replacement bulbs. Ordered some white as well. In the mail from china.
2nd gauge bezel as I bought it from Ebay. $56, with $54 re-chroming when it got to Arizona.
1st gauge bezel (vacuum) I bought it from Ebay. $90, with $54 re-chroming when it got to Arizona.
Doing this would open up a spot on the lower right. Like let's say moving my choke cable up to the left side of this cluster. (yes,I want to keep the old school choke cable). With a spot open I'd put in a "start" button like the one Ford Gt's and or current Ford cars have. I think they're bad a$$.
Like Ford Racing Performance Parts (AKA Ford Motorsports) part number M11572GT.
Doing this would open up a spot on the lower right. Like let's say moving my choke cable up to the left side of this cluster. (yes,I want to keep the old school choke cable). With a spot open I'd put in a "start" button like the one Ford Gt's and or current Ford cars have. I think they're bad a$$.
Like Ford Racing Performance Parts (AKA Ford Motorsports) part number M11572GT.
I would need an RFID or someother anti-theft device.
Maybe this like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Engine-Lock-Keyless-Entry-Immobilizer-Engine-Push-Start-Button-RFID-New-/261566532646?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce6948c26
Or a relay. Say wire in a relay that is tripped when the key is "on". With the relay tripped power would then be going to the starter button. So come to think of it,maybe it would be better to put the starter button on the left lower. So only the driver can reach it. Move the wiper switch up to the cluster.
Or a relay. Say wire in a relay that is tripped when the key is "on". With the relay tripped power would then be going to the starter button. So come to think of it,maybe it would be better to put the starter button on the left lower. So only the driver can reach it. Move the wiper switch up to the cluster.
On the Dentside F-500 up clusters, the wiper switch is already mounted to the upper left side of the bezel. --that leaves room to remove the Bumpside wiper switch from the metal structure of the dash. (Freed up hole location).
My three F500-up clusters.
Bump era F-500 up clusters still had the wiper switch on the dash but, there could be some toggle switches mounted to the left side of the bezel.
Or a relay. Say wire in a relay that is tripped when the key is "on". With the relay tripped power would then be going to the starter button. So come to think of it,maybe it would be better to put the starter button on the left lower. So only the driver can reach it. Move the wiper switch up to the cluster.
You will want to wire in a relay to kill power to the switch when the engine is running.
So circuit goes ign switch, relay to send power to button with no rpm, button. Your problem comes in on being able to break the circuit based on rpm. You will register all the same info when you crank as when running.
Something to read rpm and send voltage when rpm is over 600 as an example. This keeps the starter from being engaged with the engine running.
Another solution would be a timer. Key on would send voltage to the timer (do modern dome lights come to mind?) that would pass current to the button. When the timer expires the button goes dead. You would have to turn to off and on again to reset the timer. I think I like this idea better.
You will want to wire in a relay to kill power to the switch when the engine is running.
Another solution would be a timer. Key on would send voltage to the timer (do modern dome lights come to mind?) that would pass current to the button. When the timer expires the button goes dead. You would have to turn to off and on again to reset the timer. I think I like this idea better.
Like this Redneck starter timer?
BTW, I think most timed dome lights are fed by a GEM module. AKA General Electric Module. (not GE company)
One of the nicest instrument clusters I've see is this one, done by coupe5oh.
This is a very nice look. I'm torn between something like this and a similar style starting with a standard 69 cluster, then put in a set of gauges like these in a brushed aluminum panel. I wish I could get those gauges in a hunter green with tan numbers, that would really put together the colors I plan on for my truck.
I could put the glow and water in fuel indicators over on the left like that either way. Maybe a brake indicator as well.
This is a very nice look. I'm torn between something like this and a similar style starting with a standard 69 cluster, then put in a set of gauges like these in a brushed aluminum panel. I wish I could get those gauges in a hunter green with tan numbers, that would really put together the colors I plan on for my truck.
I could put the glow and water in fuel indicators over on the left like that either way. Maybe a brake indicator as well.
I dug through some of my photos and found these. I had them powder coated chrome to go on my Challenger. Pictures don't show it good at all it's good but like I said can't beat a chrome dip.
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