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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Post Your Gauge Clusters!

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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 11:08 AM
  #121  
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Yes, I read about the 68-69 wiring harness working with them. Just not sure how things will come together when I get the cluster and start hooking it up - like finding something to replace the vacuum gauge (guess, I could have a vacuum gauge, might be kind of neat)
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 11:10 AM
  #122  
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I would like to have a vacuum gauge for the advance. That way I could keep an eye on it.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 11:26 AM
  #123  
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Or I believe Orich calls 'em "mileage meters". Helps you watch what your right foot is doing for gas mileage. Also good for tuning and carb adjust.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 11:41 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by orich
One thing if you have not thought about it you will.

If going with an larger F series truck cluster the odometer can be re-clocked to match your now mileage.
And if a person wants to keep the correct vehicle miles as is now on your old cluster.

Pretty ez to re-clock them.

Orich
I didn't see that in the sticky...
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 11:52 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Or I believe Orich calls 'em "mileage meters". Helps you watch what your right foot is doing for gas mileage. Also good for tuning and carb adjust.
Aw there's a straight vacuum meters that can be used.

An then their is this meter out of the 60 & 70's market place is the Mileage Minder has a due scale One can be adjusted at what Vac reading = MPG you'll be getting. It's the inner metal scale.
Mounted on my steering column.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 12:05 PM
  #126  
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nice, the good old Gas Master gauge. I haven't seen one of those in a while.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 05:01 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
Best I remember, from the big truck clusters I've pulled, the tach is driven off the distributor by a cable. Probably not going to do you much good unless you have a cable drive attachment on your distributor or, unless there is some gauge refurbishing company that can convert the mechanical drive tach to electric.
I got a little excited when I saw the 7 gauge cluster, but your prolly right it's most likely to be mechanical.

Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
That is one concern is usefulness of the gauges. I like the design. I am guessing the fuel, radiator, speedo gauges would work. As I think my steering column has a 69 style wiring, I may be converting my 71 to a 68/69 under the dash (:
would hate to "blow off" another chunk of money/credit. Lord knows I have done it a few times.
BTDT!
Originally Posted by crazed87bronco
But atleast you'll have a sweet looking big F series cluster
HELL YES!

Originally Posted by ultraranger
The white faced clusters can fairly often be found in overall good condition but, the chrome/black faced clusters are difficult to find, that don't have surface rust on them.
The one I got was in fair shape, it has some light surface rust on the chrome, but it came off pretty easy with some aluminum foil and Mother's aluminum polish.



I tink this is gonna stay a 5 gauge cluster, I just don't think I want to carve it up.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 05:16 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Tomahawk
I got a little excited when I saw the 7 gauge cluster, but your prolly right it's most likely to be mechanical.


BTDT!
HELL YES!

The one I got was in fair shape, it has some light surface rust on the chrome, but it came off pretty easy with some aluminum foil and Mother's aluminum polish.



I tink this is gonna stay a 5 gauge cluster, I just don't think I want to carve it up.
Gavin, home depot sells hole saws. And read my signature.
Edit. yes,they were mechanical.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 06:27 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Gavin, home depot sells hole saws. And read my signature.
Edit. yes,they were mechanical.
Greenlee electricians knockout punches are the schitt when it comes to popping perfectly round, burr free holes in thin sheet metal.

...you just have to remember that conduit is sized by I.D. not O.D. A 2" knockout punch, for example, doesn't make a 2" hole. It makes a 2-3/8" diameter hole.

But, it's faster and makes MUCH cleaner and more accurate holes than a hole saw.



These aren't cheap tools. They are expensive if bought new. They do often turn up on ebay for fairly reasonable though.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 06:33 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
Ended up finding one for $100:
https://www.heavytruckparts.net/deta...5%26id%3D42833

Not as nice, perhaps.
The one I showed a picture of previously is still available for $150 at:
https://www.heavytruckparts.net/deta...=1&searchnum=1
I think it was a little better condition.

Tried to get either of them to cut the connectors for the clusters, but none of them fell for it. They offered me the wiring harness for $300.
Dang that cluster that they are asking $100 for looks like one of the ones I picked up for .99 cents haha. The prices people ask for these clusters are just plain HILARIOUS!!!
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 06:38 PM
  #131  
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Ultra Those knockouts bring back many memories. I used to use them almost every week for years at work. We've found the breaking point of them acouple times. Clean round burr free holes. Worst part about them is making the initial hole. After that pump the hydraulics and pop she's done
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 06:46 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by crazed87bronco
Ultra Those knockouts bring back many memories. I used to use them almost every week for years at work. We've found the breaking point of them acouple times. Clean round burr free holes. Worst part about them is making the initial hole. After that pump the hydraulics and pop she's done
My Greenlee knockouts are just the manual wrench/socket type drive. I don't have the really fancy hydraulic attachment to actuate them with.

There are Greenlee Knockouts and there are Greenlee Slug Busters. I actually prefer the Slug Busters.

I believe the knockouts will handle up to 10 gauge sheet metal but, If the knockout is pretty big in diameter and you don't have the hydraulic pump, cutting through that thick a piece of metal, with a large end wrench or ratchet, can be a chore.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 06:50 PM
  #133  
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Others available in the aftermarket:





At night:

 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 06:58 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
My Greenlee knockouts are just the manual wrench/socket type drive. I don't have the really fancy hydraulic attachment to actuate them with.

There are Greenlee Knockouts and there are Greenlee Slug Busters. I actually prefer the Slug Busters.

I believe the knockouts will handle up to 10 gauge sheet metal but, If the knockout is pretty big in diameter and you don't have the hydraulic pump, cutting through that thick a piece of metal, with a large end wrench or ratchet, can be a chore.
That's no fun cranking it with a wrench. I was spoiled and we had the hydro setup for it. Some of the things we punched through I would hate having to do it with a wrench and doing it by hand. Those things are dangerous when they break pieces fly in all directions.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 07:29 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by trozei
Good! Hahahaha. All mine!



Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Gavin, home depot sells hole saws. And read my signature.
Edit. yes,they were mechanical.
Yikes!

Originally Posted by ultraranger
Greenlee electricians knockout punches are the schitt when it comes to popping perfectly round, burr free holes in thin sheet metal.

...you just have to remember that conduit is sized by I.D. not O.D. A 2" knockout punch, for example, doesn't make a 2" hole. It makes a 2-3/8" diameter hole.

But, it's faster and makes MUCH cleaner and more accurate holes than a hole saw.


These aren't cheap tools. They are expensive if bought new. They do often turn up on ebay for fairly reasonable though.
I think you can rent them.....and they do make nice clean holes.
 
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