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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 07:22 AM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by pdombrowicki
With a welder!!!
Are you just gonna stick a 7014 in there and fill the gaps up with snot? Are you gonna make a nice clean joint and weld it fluxcore? I'm curious to know how one welds together the frames of 2 vehicles to make 1 8000lbs vehicle made to tow 10,000lbs... How much tolerance do you have for the lengths of the sides to make sure its square? I'm intradasted
 
Old Jan 7, 2014 | 08:35 AM
  #152  
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Go back and read #71...
 
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 08:37 PM
  #153  
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Frame is all welded together.








 
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 09:09 PM
  #154  
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Looking good.
 
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 10:29 PM
  #155  
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Looking very good. I know in a lot of ways its an understatement but now that you left essentially the complete front clip already together its not far off from completion. Stripping the engine and front end would have really added some time to the rebuild.

Question- the F-250 emblems on the front fenders, will you replace them with ones labeled excursion? Do you have to make them or what?
 
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 12:39 AM
  #156  
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I'm not being critical, just curious, but what welding method did you use? Arc, Mig, Tig...How are you making sure that the welds are solid and not full of porosity? Its hard to tell from the pictures, but it appears you are arc welding and that your vertical welds were "vertical down" welds rather than "vertical up" welds. Since "vertical down" welds capture the flux under the weld, doesn't it create some concern for the vehicle towing at capacity?
 
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 06:57 AM
  #157  
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That's mig... so flux wouldn't be a concern. Problem with vertical down would be that heat rises so you're constantly moving away from your heat which isn't what you want to be doing. You're also pushing your puddle down and then welding through it and not getting much penetration that way.

Also... "zapping" isn't welding

I'd have tried to get a snugger fit... those "spot" welds are gonna pop apart when that frame flexes.
 
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 07:52 AM
  #158  
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Welding can always be picked apart and scrutinized. I won't say anything about the welding but what I would like to say is personally after the plate was welded in I would have put in about 8 bolts in each, 4 forward of the seam and 4 aft on each plate. But we all have our opinions and probably all would do anything a different way.

Thanks for the updates! The X is coming along very fast! This is exciting!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 08:17 AM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
I would have put in about 8 bolts in each, 4 forward of the seam and 4 aft on each plate.
Thanks for the updates! The X is coming along very fast! This is exciting!

Agree, appreciate all the pics!

Since our Ex is already a 2 piece frame, how did Ford connect them? I recall rivets, but need to check again under the front wheel well.
 
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 08:20 AM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by wpnaes
Agree, appreciate all the pics!

Since our Ex is already a 2 piece frame, how did Ford connect them? I recall rivets, but need to check again under the front wheel well.
Rivets is Fords normal MO but they get replaced on brackets what not as you do bushings etc over the years and bolts as long as tight and fit the hole work just as well.
 
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 12:14 PM
  #161  
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From Paul's last build I can tell you what you are seeing is the work in progress. He will go back over everything with a fine tooth comb and then again just to make it look pretty. When he was done with the last one you would swear Ford had made it.

On the registration question, while it depends on the state where it is registered, Paul is taking the correct approach and keeping it an F250. You will see many pick-up truck's that modified with different bed configurations, cargo configurations etc. they all still trucks underneath. In some states an Ex is considered a car, so it might be advantageous to register it that way, but technically the VIN should not be moved so he is keeping it all legal by keeping the F250 VIN in place.
 
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 04:59 PM
  #162  
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Welds all cleaned up and painted. Slide the axle out from under the box and put it under the Ex frame. Decided to use the springs from the truck so we have to move the front spring perches forward 8". Going to have the drive shaft shorten from the 12.










 
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 05:04 PM
  #163  
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Looks really nice! Using the longer springs is a great idea. I've read good things about that mod.

Changing the spring mount location and using the longer springs doesn't relocate the axle? Meaning it will still line up under the Excursion body?
 
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 05:08 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by wrxin
Looks really nice! Using the longer springs is a great idea. I've read good things about that mod.

Changing the spring mount location and using the longer springs doesn't relocate the axle? Meaning it will still line up under the Excursion body?
Yes that was the main concern. Just have to move the front spring mount.
 
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 05:15 PM
  #165  
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Thanks, that's really cool. I guess the axle isn't dead center on the spring? If it was, the axle would be 4 inches off (roughly) if the new spring is 8 inches longer. Or the math isn't that simple and once the shackles are taken into account and the other geometry, it works out ok.
 



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