Emergency ford excursion x code swap
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
From: Kenner LA
It looks really high in the front in the picture but not in person for some reason. Looked for blocks in the rear and all I found was a small like 3/4 inch block that's flat on top and round on the bottom(fits over the axle). I don't know how my rear is 2 1/2 inches higher than the stock measurement I was given.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,410
Likes: 6
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
The Ex orig. came with that spacer and a 2in. Block.... So, it looks like someone removed the 2in block.
Adding an original 2 in block and Ras it would net you 2.5-3inches over what you have now. Adding the f350 4in block thats actually 3.75in instead of the 2 in original will net you 4.25-4.75inches over what you have know with the Ras. Just my .02 if adding any block, use the RAS.
The RAS is important if you go this route, it keeps everything tight back there. Also, at lowest setting it will give you 1/2 inch gain and at highest setting it will get you 1-1.25 inches.
Adding an original 2 in block and Ras it would net you 2.5-3inches over what you have now. Adding the f350 4in block thats actually 3.75in instead of the 2 in original will net you 4.25-4.75inches over what you have know with the Ras. Just my .02 if adding any block, use the RAS.
The RAS is important if you go this route, it keeps everything tight back there. Also, at lowest setting it will give you 1/2 inch gain and at highest setting it will get you 1-1.25 inches.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
From: Kenner LA
The front only has the leveling kit front bracket and stock rear bracket. Should I buy the 2 inch drop down bracket to bring my caster back in the proper spot. Maybe recieve a bit more lift up front from it?
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,050
Likes: 1,549
From: Media PA
Hey thanks for owning your mistakes, a lot of folks don't know how to do that. Reps sent for that!
It looks like you have after market rear springs. The stockers have the 2" block LL talked about and a slapper type traction bar, you don't have either. Adding an F-350 3.75" block should put you at about level or so, add the RAS to that and you should be pretty close to factory rake. The only issue to worry about is those rear springs, they are an unknown. If they are on the weak side they may allow for some axle wrap with the tall block, then again maybe not...... I would go with the blocks and deal with any wrap if and when it happens.
It looks like you have after market rear springs. The stockers have the 2" block LL talked about and a slapper type traction bar, you don't have either. Adding an F-350 3.75" block should put you at about level or so, add the RAS to that and you should be pretty close to factory rake. The only issue to worry about is those rear springs, they are an unknown. If they are on the weak side they may allow for some axle wrap with the tall block, then again maybe not...... I would go with the blocks and deal with any wrap if and when it happens.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
From: Kenner LA
If that's not the factory spring then its getting changed out. So b's c's or? Keep in mind truck lives with trailer behind it 5 days a week
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Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Media PA
You said the rear has always had a nice ride right.......?
With your front now at +6" I don't know if going OEM will be the best route. I have rear B codes with the typical mod, added the bottom two leaves from the factory EX pack as well as the thicker spacers. In addition to that I upgraded from the stock 2" block to the 3.75" F-350 blocks, I also cut up my factory slapper/traction bar and put two sections of that on each side between the blocks and springs. All of this gave me about 4.25/4.5" of lift. So for you to go with modded B codes you would need about 6" or 7" blocks or so depending what kind of rake you want to end up with. With that much block even the stout B codes might start to wrap a bit, if so then traction bars would be a good addition with your trailer weight. (You should really rebuild and put those trailer brakes back in service, 7k is a lot to be dragging around without brakes.)
With your front now at +6" I don't know if going OEM will be the best route. I have rear B codes with the typical mod, added the bottom two leaves from the factory EX pack as well as the thicker spacers. In addition to that I upgraded from the stock 2" block to the 3.75" F-350 blocks, I also cut up my factory slapper/traction bar and put two sections of that on each side between the blocks and springs. All of this gave me about 4.25/4.5" of lift. So for you to go with modded B codes you would need about 6" or 7" blocks or so depending what kind of rake you want to end up with. With that much block even the stout B codes might start to wrap a bit, if so then traction bars would be a good addition with your trailer weight. (You should really rebuild and put those trailer brakes back in service, 7k is a lot to be dragging around without brakes.)
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,050
Likes: 1,549
From: Media PA
Sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. Fixxing the trailer brakes and installing a quality brake controller sounds a lot more rational. I know I wouldn't want to be dragging my 9.5k lb ToyHauler around without brakes.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
x 100
I've come on more than one accident with a heavy trailer and a broken brake controller or surge brakes with an empty reservoir. Ford built these trucks to brake themselves and a reasonable load. That doesn't mean it's safe when towing.
Fix those brakes on that trailer - is your life or the life of someone else worth the load you are towing?
I've come on more than one accident with a heavy trailer and a broken brake controller or surge brakes with an empty reservoir. Ford built these trucks to brake themselves and a reasonable load. That doesn't mean it's safe when towing.
Fix those brakes on that trailer - is your life or the life of someone else worth the load you are towing?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
From: Kenner LA
I've had more issues with having trailer brakes than without them. When I bought my trailer brand new I had brake problems within the first month. After multiple repairs and multiple shops and thousands of dollars wasted not being on the job. I just told the last shop to remove the entire system. If it ain't there it can't break. Simple as that.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 658
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From: Parker, CO
