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Alright, done some more stuff to it lately. I upgraded my Sunpro gauge lights to green LED's as well as the headlight/wiper light. Looks a lot better now they match the dash bulbs color. Changed the rear leaf spring bushings. That was a lot of work. I bet I got off the floor 80 times doing that job. Took about 10 hours in total, 9 yesterday and an hour getting set up the night before. Made a surprising difference in how it rides - much better.
I'm still sporting the old shackle bushings, as I couldn't get those out but those were in OK shape. The spring eye bushings were toast.
Nice work! I'll be going down the same path in the future when I do my suspension lift. It'll be tough. But first, axle work since I went and broke stuff, then a motor rebuild!
You do good work. If you are careful you can change it without taking the whole thing apart. Since it is a 9" unit, check what ratio it is. If it is what Ford calls a "hunting" ratio then there is no worry about matching the gears unless you have to replace the pinion bearings.
I don't do quite as good as Matt .
I have 4.11s with Yukon Tru-Trac both front and back. A very recent upgrade. It just so happens that the yoke wasn't as strong as it could have been. However this one Mark Williams Enterprises - Detail
Should serve me just fine. I've been informed that this one, being made of Billet Steel, will shatter instead of bend and rip apart. At a price of $170+ I would hope it is correct. On top of everything I've been real nervous about the whole deal. Worried I damaged other parts inside, worried owning order the right part, and worried I'll screw up the reassembly and be in a deeper pit.
My chosen method of changing this doesn't require changing the crush sleeve or even resetting the pre-load. Just as long as everything matches up to exactly how it was before, aside from the torn up yoke of course. I guess we will see.
Last edited by ctubutis; Oct 31, 2015 at 07:28 PM.
Reason: Fix hyperlink
If you're not going to reset the pre load, paint a mark all across the nut, threads and the yoke for reference. CAREFULLY count the turns taking it off, then put it back on exactly the amount of turns you took it off.
If you're not going to reset the pre load, paint a mark all across the nut, threads and the yoke for reference. CAREFULLY count the turns taking it off, then put it back on exactly the amount of turns you took it off.
Yup, that's the plan . I'm just going to take it slow and try to be very particular about things. Write down all the details and what not. One thing I'm wondering is, how much torque will I have to apply on reassembly. I haven't seen anything yet on the forums I had been reading about. They simply said "torque the nut back down then check the drag..." I've got my torque wrench, I just need to order the yoke, pull my drive shaft and get it in the garage to work on it.
Someone had also mentioned that I'm probably going overkill on the yoke I chose. It is kind of expensive but I am also looking at stroking my 351m at a later date so it would give me some peace of mind..
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