I'm getting ready to rebuild my e4od and was wondering if I could get the zip file. I don't have enough post to pm.
Thanks:
Jonathan Rich

 

I know i am sounding like a parrot but I am going o attempt rebuilding my e4od and would love to have any edge I can get. If anyone has the .zip file guide I would love to have it. Thanks.
Jerry g_sibert@msn.com

 

+me. Please send me the zip file at e4od@catstar.us, but replace the 'cat' with 'dog'.

 

did any of the recent posters get the file? I would like to get a copy.

 

I am also planning a transmission rebuild and would appreciate a copy of the zip file. Thanks cgregory@livingston.net

 

I just did two full e4's and initially it was *very* daunting assimilating all the information, but the actual STEPS to put the thing together were very easy. The big thing i found out is that it's very iffy whether you can mix/match pieces, and it's very important to pay attention to clutch clearances. The other thing I learned is that there are a handful of common ways in which this transmission falls apart. Fix those items and you have a rock solid transmission. but, it costs money to do that.
1. upgrade all planetaries to steel.
2. replace your one-way roller clutches & spray
3. if you have the $, replace your clutch packs w/ the upgraded ones with more frictions
4. Use the center support w/ the roller bearing
5. Put the lower gears & hubs in as an assembly. Don't even try to put them in one by one. You will need a special tool for this, but it's $50 on eBay.
6. Put the upper gears (overdrive, intermediate) all in as an assembly. Don't try to put them in one by one.
7. Use a new snap-ring on the output shaft. Use a new spiral snap ring on the overdrive piston.
8. Pay special special attention to your pump and it's seal and basically everything about that pump.
9. Can't say about Torque converters, but EVERYBODY says to buy a new one. Sucks.
10. Keep everything CLEAN.
11. Air test each component after you put it in. Easier than pulling the tranny back out later.

 

Thanks for the advice, I am still in the 'very daunting'phase of the project but thankfully have time to proceed slowly.

 

If you have a PTO version of the E40D or 4r100, the upper set of gears will need to go in with the trans horizontal unless you buy the tool to do it vertically.

Just to explain a bit. the OD clutches go around the coast clutch.. Problem is that with a PTO model, there is a gear that is mounted on the face of the Coast Clutch that prevents you from putting the OD steels and frictions in AFTER you put the coast clutch in.. This makes you have to drop the coast clutch and the foward planetary in at the same time, as they should, so that you don't mess up the sprag that is in the middle of the CC. Forward planetary, sun/ring gear, and the CC all go in at the same time.. as a unit.. to get this unit in, with the OD steels and frictions already installed in the case, you have to have the tool to hold this unit together vertically as you work it back and forth to line up the OD frictions the key on the outside of the CC.

If you install the forward/CC unit horizontally, you can use the input shaft to slide it in and work it back and forth thru the OD friction until it is lined up without the unit coming apart.

Another big hint. Get the ATSG book on E40D and / or 4r100. IMMENSELY HELPFUL BOOK!!!

One more thing, If it doesn't fit, DON"T FORCE IT. something is not assembled correctly if it does not lineup with a twist one direction or another. This will prove costly if you bang on stuff to get it to fit..

Don't install any seal dry. use at least trans fluid, if not trans gel, or vasoline. Vasoline will help you install bearings and small loose ***** in the VB. will 'stick' parts together for assembly.

Good luck..

 

I put the upper gears together upside-down. i.e. coast clutch first, facing up, without the frictions & steels on it. Then put the other part on top of it (the thing with the one-way clutch & the planetary stuck in it), then I put on the frictions & steels & snap ring. then I hold it all together and flip it upside down, then stick it into the transmission (which is facing up), and rest the long shaft on the top of the bearing. Then I nudge it slightly and the whole thing falls into the transmission as one unit. If it's done right, the gear assembly that is sticking into the coast clutch will stick up out of the coast clutch's middle gears by about 1/8" of an inch... (I'm not that great at guessing measurements). But it will be sticking out slightly.

I'm sure there are better ways to do this (horizontally), but I dislike moving that transmission around...

 

more advice:
1. don't try to put a reverse clutch pack in that has a wave plate on it, into a transmission that wasn't designed for it. the calibrations are different.
2. no matter what the manuals say, don't mix valve bodies between years. You *need* to use the case that was designed for the particular VB, even if you swap the VB, accumulator, etc. It won't work.
3. There are different hubs that contain different friction/steel counts. You sort of need to be familiar with which is which if you want to try and stick more frictions into your hub.
4. there are different pressure plate & apply plate sizes, and snap ring sizes, to get more or less friction plates into your clutch packs. Understand that the thinner the steels, the more likely they are to warp from heat, but the more friction plates cause the heat to be less. It's a weird trade-off I'm not sure anybody fully understands.
5. Be sure to get the stack-up clearances right on your clutch packs. Go the extra mile and get the right snap ring to get your clearances right.
6. Use the new spiral ring for the OD piston. I hear it falls out a lot.
7. If you replace your bushings, the fit for the center support is gonna be tight. Lube it before you drop it in, and press firmly but don't force it. If you try and pull it out because you think it's stuck, you'll mess up the stacked-up gears beneath it and you'll probably swear a lot.
8. seals make the transmission work. always replace the seals, ALL of them, if it's a high-mileage transmission.
9. Try to get/find a front pump that has the lip that prevents the bushing from walking out. it's worth it.

 

I need it! my user name at gmail
Ed

 

Even more advice:

put a new pump gears in, IMHO not negotiable. they are too cheap not to just replace them.

Make sure you torque everything to spec. Under torque will allow crossleaks, overtorque will crush the VB's and the pump valves. If that happens, you've got lots of work to do to get the valves freed up. I ended up replacing the PR valve in the pump due to crushing it. (bad torque wrench, 50% overtorqued everything it touched)

If you have to take it out multiple times, USE NEW ATF each time if you drove it at all before pulling it again. $60 at wallyworld for DEX/MERC 5 gallons.

If you want to see the garbage that just a bit of driving creates, (if you have a problem) put your ATF in a white 5 gallon bucket and let it sit for a week. Empty it and look at all the crap in the bottom. If it's bad enough, the garbage in the bottom will sparkle with metal flake.

 

Hello all I have a 1997 ford f53 chassis under my moterhome it has a 460 and E4OD transmission with 21000 miles on it. I have not had it long and noticed some dark specks on the transmission gage stick when I checked the fluid level. So I pulled the pan check it out there was a heavy coat of gunk on the bottom of the pan as well as around 1/8" thick coat on the magnet, no chuncks or shavings.
It seams to work great no slipping and shifts good in all gears. Is this any thing to worry about and should I do a complete fluid change and install a inline filter.

 

That's normal. New fluid would help it live longer. Drain the converter, too.

 

I have a 94 bronco that I am going to rebuild my E40D tranny any one still have that zip file. I would be very appreciative


Blknighttx@gmail.com

Thanks sully