Project Rednecktified
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,417
Likes: 32
Nice idea for the wires.
I have a file I hope I never loose with weather pack pin out letters, The wire gauge, and color. That way I can always figure out later what goes to what. Definitely an issue with a custom harness.
I have a file I hope I never loose with weather pack pin out letters, The wire gauge, and color. That way I can always figure out later what goes to what. Definitely an issue with a custom harness.
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Joined: Sep 2012
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I'll be making a wiring drawing for all wiring connections in the truck. It'll have wire color, gauge, and show what it goes to and from. Also will. show pin location on the connectors. Going to be alot of work, but will be well worth it 5 years down the road when i forget everything!
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 15
From: Costa Mesa, CA
That's the NAP AC unit- correct? If so is it the heat & AC, or just the AC only? Looks like no heater box behind it so I'm thinking it's the combo unit, but it doesn't look like their pics from what I remember.
Also, 1st and last pic don't seem to be working.
Also, 1st and last pic don't seem to be working.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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I'm going to try to fix the photos. I'm re-uploading them to Photobucket.
-Kyle
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 15
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Photos are fixed - thanks.
That is annoying about no floor heat as if I have the heat on in my truck 95% or the time or more I have it on floor only. Comes from living in So. Cal. and having sandals on year round I guess. I'd have to figure something out for that as well if I went this route.
A couple more questions on this install.
1) what are you doing for controls? I see they say you can use the factory controls. I'm wondering if that means factory AC controls only, or if you can use the non-ac controls.
2) did they ship you a compressor for the cummins vs. the ford one? Any additional cost there?
3) The 2 hoses coming off the AC unit that exit above the 3 vent ports in that middle pic. Would you be able to move those hoses further up the firewall if you wanted to? Looks like there's a valve inline there & not sure if that is tied to anything that would keep the lines from being able to be moved.
That is annoying about no floor heat as if I have the heat on in my truck 95% or the time or more I have it on floor only. Comes from living in So. Cal. and having sandals on year round I guess. I'd have to figure something out for that as well if I went this route.
A couple more questions on this install.
1) what are you doing for controls? I see they say you can use the factory controls. I'm wondering if that means factory AC controls only, or if you can use the non-ac controls.
2) did they ship you a compressor for the cummins vs. the ford one? Any additional cost there?
3) The 2 hoses coming off the AC unit that exit above the 3 vent ports in that middle pic. Would you be able to move those hoses further up the firewall if you wanted to? Looks like there's a valve inline there & not sure if that is tied to anything that would keep the lines from being able to be moved.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 220
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Photos are fixed - thanks.
That is annoying about no floor heat as if I have the heat on in my truck 95% or the time or more I have it on floor only. Comes from living in So. Cal. and having sandals on year round I guess. I'd have to figure something out for that as well if I went this route.
A couple more questions on this install.
1) what are you doing for controls? I see they say you can use the factory controls. I'm wondering if that means factory AC controls only, or if you can use the non-ac controls.
2) did they ship you a compressor for the cummins vs. the ford one? Any additional cost there?
3) The 2 hoses coming off the AC unit that exit above the 3 vent ports in that middle pic. Would you be able to move those hoses further up the firewall if you wanted to? Looks like there's a valve inline there & not sure if that is tied to anything that would keep the lines from being able to be moved.
That is annoying about no floor heat as if I have the heat on in my truck 95% or the time or more I have it on floor only. Comes from living in So. Cal. and having sandals on year round I guess. I'd have to figure something out for that as well if I went this route.
A couple more questions on this install.
1) what are you doing for controls? I see they say you can use the factory controls. I'm wondering if that means factory AC controls only, or if you can use the non-ac controls.
2) did they ship you a compressor for the cummins vs. the ford one? Any additional cost there?
3) The 2 hoses coming off the AC unit that exit above the 3 vent ports in that middle pic. Would you be able to move those hoses further up the firewall if you wanted to? Looks like there's a valve inline there & not sure if that is tied to anything that would keep the lines from being able to be moved.
2) I re-used the Cummins compressor. You can buy the kit with or without the compressor. I'm sure they will sell you the correct compressor (if they have it in stock).
3) Those are the hoses for the heater. I can't move those up any further, because it would be going into the "trough" above the engine compartment. You can put the valve pretty much anywhere you want. I won't be tied to anything, no bracket.
Let me know if that answers your questions. I had to kind of customize the kit a little bit with the controls and running the hoses, but most of it was useful.
-Kyle
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 15
From: Costa Mesa, CA
I'm interested to see your push/pull cable layout in the dash. I'm going back & forth on trying to keep my stock stuff or go custom.
Also let me know how the diverter for the defrost/floor works out. I may have to steal that!
Now for those heater hoses - I realize now after looking back at the pics that's what those are. I'm concerned about the low hoses in the engine bay pic of the firewall - the AC ones. Are those flexible on install location? I'd need to raise them up a bit as my exhaust runs right by where yours come through the firewall.
Also let me know how the diverter for the defrost/floor works out. I may have to steal that!
Now for those heater hoses - I realize now after looking back at the pics that's what those are. I'm concerned about the low hoses in the engine bay pic of the firewall - the AC ones. Are those flexible on install location? I'd need to raise them up a bit as my exhaust runs right by where yours come through the firewall.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 220
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I'm interested to see your push/pull cable layout in the dash. I'm going back & forth on trying to keep my stock stuff or go custom.
Also let me know how the diverter for the defrost/floor works out. I may have to steal that!
Now for those heater hoses - I realize now after looking back at the pics that's what those are. I'm concerned about the low hoses in the engine bay pic of the firewall - the AC ones. Are those flexible on install location? I'd need to raise them up a bit as my exhaust runs right by where yours come through the firewall.
Also let me know how the diverter for the defrost/floor works out. I may have to steal that!
Now for those heater hoses - I realize now after looking back at the pics that's what those are. I'm concerned about the low hoses in the engine bay pic of the firewall - the AC ones. Are those flexible on install location? I'd need to raise them up a bit as my exhaust runs right by where yours come through the firewall.
Chase - I know how you ran your exhaust, and yes i it would interfere if you ran your AC lines like i did. You should be able to run the AC lines up above (same level as my heater hoses). The 2 ports for the AC come out of the bottom, so you can direct them whichever way you want.
Here's a pic of the bottom of the unit. I already have the cork tape covering the fittings, but you can see where they come out of the bottom of the unit:
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 15
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Awesome info! Thanks for the pic too! That is what I have been trying to find out for a while. Now to see how your cable setup & diverter works & I can be one step closer to pulling the trigger.
On a side note, I know you've already done some work for the defroster & making it fit the stock setup, but here's some info I found in posts on here from guys using this kit and having issues with the defrost. What they are saying makes sense, and I bet the defrost tube from another car could be found & made to work.
"...Got things ready to put in the Nostalgic air kit when a friend called to tell me he has the same kit and the defroster hardly works. Looking at it I can see why. The outlet on the evaporator is half the size of the inlet for the defrost vents on our trucks. I need to figure out a way to neck it down. I'll probably scrounge up a smaller vent from the junk yards and make it fit."
"Hi, I have a Nostalgic Air also and can confirm that the defrost hardly has any air coming out and there is no floor vent. Now the A/C does work very though. My friend has a Vintage Air in his 60 F100 and it has 2 ducts for the defroster and floor vents that work independent of each other or blend. The Nostligic just blends the dash vents and the defroster."
"I was thinking of switching the center vent and the defrost hoses as the velocity is much higher on it, also I think I will try out one of the cable controlled a/c thermostats to get rid of the extra ****. Anyone else get their heater to actually get the cab warm?"
"The problem isn't with the unit. The problem is the huge volume of the Ford defrost vents. If a guy found a smaller vent or necked down the exit of the vent it would put on more pressure."
Not trying to make more work for you, but figured I'd share what I have found in some research on this thing. Maybe it'll save you having to tear it apart again later.
On a side note, I know you've already done some work for the defroster & making it fit the stock setup, but here's some info I found in posts on here from guys using this kit and having issues with the defrost. What they are saying makes sense, and I bet the defrost tube from another car could be found & made to work.
"...Got things ready to put in the Nostalgic air kit when a friend called to tell me he has the same kit and the defroster hardly works. Looking at it I can see why. The outlet on the evaporator is half the size of the inlet for the defrost vents on our trucks. I need to figure out a way to neck it down. I'll probably scrounge up a smaller vent from the junk yards and make it fit."
"Hi, I have a Nostalgic Air also and can confirm that the defrost hardly has any air coming out and there is no floor vent. Now the A/C does work very though. My friend has a Vintage Air in his 60 F100 and it has 2 ducts for the defroster and floor vents that work independent of each other or blend. The Nostligic just blends the dash vents and the defroster."
"I was thinking of switching the center vent and the defrost hoses as the velocity is much higher on it, also I think I will try out one of the cable controlled a/c thermostats to get rid of the extra ****. Anyone else get their heater to actually get the cab warm?"
"The problem isn't with the unit. The problem is the huge volume of the Ford defrost vents. If a guy found a smaller vent or necked down the exit of the vent it would put on more pressure."
Not trying to make more work for you, but figured I'd share what I have found in some research on this thing. Maybe it'll save you having to tear it apart again later.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
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Thanks for the info Chase!
Ok, after a little bit of research, I think I'm going to run 2 of the ports to defrost/floor, and 2 of the vents to panel.
I can change it down the road pretty easily, but I think this will be a better bet. Nothing worse than not having enough heat, especially when you know you have a big honkin heat generator under the hood! Also, it all depends on how much air the blower can move.
If its a problem with the defroster ducting, I can get replacements pretty cheap. Here are 2 options:
Duct Defrost Outlet for 2" Duct Hose 32 2455 | eBay
Vintage Air Defrost Ducts 633810-VUA - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
I'll post some info on my cable controls this week.
Ok, after a little bit of research, I think I'm going to run 2 of the ports to defrost/floor, and 2 of the vents to panel.
I can change it down the road pretty easily, but I think this will be a better bet. Nothing worse than not having enough heat, especially when you know you have a big honkin heat generator under the hood! Also, it all depends on how much air the blower can move.
If its a problem with the defroster ducting, I can get replacements pretty cheap. Here are 2 options:
Duct Defrost Outlet for 2" Duct Hose 32 2455 | eBay
Vintage Air Defrost Ducts 633810-VUA - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
I'll post some info on my cable controls this week.